Test pipe? Easy to put the cat back on?
10-11-2004, 12:12 PM
#12
Originally Posted by kitwetzler,Oct 11 2004, 01:27 PM
I snapped 2 studs after a liberal soaking of Liquid Wrench and only 2500 miles on the car.
10-11-2004, 12:51 PM
#13
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 5,888
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
man i'd have to say you guys are a group of great help. I appreciate everything seriously. And I appreciate your info xviper 
I create this thread and comming from class in about 3 hrs I get tons of responses. What do I do without you guys. You guys are awesome!
I create this thread and comming from class in about 3 hrs I get tons of responses. What do I do without you guys. You guys are awesome!
10-11-2004, 02:54 PM
#14
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Sunnyvale
Posts: 2,061
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by xviper,Oct 11 2004, 01:12 PM
That's really weird. I've done this 4 times now and about to it again on yet another car next week. I wonder if yours was over torqued at the factory?
I find that replacing them with bolts is just as easy. I used grade 8 bolts with lock washers and high temp anti seize and have zero problems with them backing off when I don't want them to or coming off when I do want them to.
10-11-2004, 03:02 PM
#15
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Turlock
Posts: 240
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by xviper,Oct 11 2004, 09:02 AM
How ya doing, bud?
I've disconnected both ends of the cat. On the front end are 2 bolts that go through spring loaded devices. This is so you can have some movement. There is also a "metallic donut" on that end that serves as a gasket. On the rear, there are 3 bolts and another metal gasket (or triangular gasket if aftermarket). Assuming the testpipe has the same flanges, you can replace the cat at any time. You might be able to even get away with saving the old donut and gasket. So, no welds. I suggest you Liquid wrench the nuts and bolts well before, during and after the install to make sure they don't break since you are planning to do this periodically. Start with the front. Remove those springs and nuts and bolts and you should be able to pull the whole thing down far enough to pull the cat (testpipe) forward to dislodge the studs at the back.
I've disconnected both ends of the cat. On the front end are 2 bolts that go through spring loaded devices. This is so you can have some movement. There is also a "metallic donut" on that end that serves as a gasket. On the rear, there are 3 bolts and another metal gasket (or triangular gasket if aftermarket). Assuming the testpipe has the same flanges, you can replace the cat at any time. You might be able to even get away with saving the old donut and gasket. So, no welds. I suggest you Liquid wrench the nuts and bolts well before, during and after the install to make sure they don't break since you are planning to do this periodically. Start with the front. Remove those springs and nuts and bolts and you should be able to pull the whole thing down far enough to pull the cat (testpipe) forward to dislodge the studs at the back.
10-11-2004, 07:57 PM
#16
Registered User
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Bel Air
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Never had any problems with studs on converter. Just hit them with the "heat wrench" (torch) and they come right off once they cool. Mine had 32K on them and they were no problem. Use copper based antiseize when you put them back on to ease the issue in the future.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Bryan@BerkTechnology.com
S2000 Modifications and Parts
184
02-16-2011 11:26 AM