Temperature gauge going up and then down
03-09-2005, 09:51 AM
#11
Registered User
Dude... "bang it goes down" is not descriptive. Here's an example of what would actually be useful.
Temp gauge shows 3 bars (normal) for 2 minutes.
Temp gauge goes to 4 bars for 45 seconds.
Temp gauge goes to 5 bars for 1 second.
Temp gauge goes to 4 bars for 1 second.
Temp gauge skips 3 bars and goes to 2 bars for 2 minutes.
Try something a little more like that.
Temp gauge shows 3 bars (normal) for 2 minutes.
Temp gauge goes to 4 bars for 45 seconds.
Temp gauge goes to 5 bars for 1 second.
Temp gauge goes to 4 bars for 1 second.
Temp gauge skips 3 bars and goes to 2 bars for 2 minutes.
Try something a little more like that.
03-09-2005, 10:13 AM
#12
Originally Posted by DVSwetwilly,Mar 9 2005, 10:58 AM
its in seconds
really quick seconds..
really quick seconds..
Good luck.
03-09-2005, 05:35 PM
#13
The red flag to me here is the Hondata gasket. Don't get me wrong the mod is a good one. My opinion is that you may have some air trapped in the cooling system. This is leading to the sensor seeing some supeheated steam for a brief period which is leading to your readings. You need to bleed the system (which was disturbed when the gasket was installed). You need to remove the bleed cap from the heater bypass tube (behind the block and against the firewall--cap is just to the left of the clamp holding the tube)and loosen the air bleed bolt on the intake manifold(located on the right front of the manifold.
1) Fill radiator
2) Tighten manifold bleed bolt as soon as fluid streams out
3) Tighten bleed cap on heater tube when fluid comes out
4) With radiator cap off run car until radiator fans come on at least twice (fill radiator as needed to keep fluid at bottom of neck). PLACE THE CARS HEATER ON MAX HEAT.
5) Tighten bleed air screw on mainfold to 7.2 ft-lb
6) Put radiator cap back on and check for leaks at bypass tube cap, bleed bolt, and cap.
7) Thank Utah for fixing you problem
Utah
P.S. You may have done the gasket a while back but an air bubble has made it's way into an area that is effecting the sensor......
1) Fill radiator
2) Tighten manifold bleed bolt as soon as fluid streams out
3) Tighten bleed cap on heater tube when fluid comes out
4) With radiator cap off run car until radiator fans come on at least twice (fill radiator as needed to keep fluid at bottom of neck). PLACE THE CARS HEATER ON MAX HEAT.
5) Tighten bleed air screw on mainfold to 7.2 ft-lb
6) Put radiator cap back on and check for leaks at bypass tube cap, bleed bolt, and cap.
7) Thank Utah for fixing you problem
Utah
P.S. You may have done the gasket a while back but an air bubble has made it's way into an area that is effecting the sensor......
03-09-2005, 05:48 PM
#15
Originally Posted by kane.s2k,Mar 9 2005, 06:40 PM
Aren't you suppose to also lift up the car so the engine is angled when opening the bleed screw?
Utah
03-09-2005, 05:55 PM
#17
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THANKS guys!!!! for the help there was a air pocket.. everything is okay now.. I love this fourm some much info so many people with nice "S" well guys/girls thanks for your help
03-09-2005, 07:51 PM
#18
Originally Posted by Utah S2K,Mar 9 2005, 07:35 PM
The red flag to me here is the Hondata gasket.
If you knew of this, then you had the advantage over the rest of us. I've just gotta learn to not respond anymore when details are left out.
03-10-2005, 08:51 AM
#20
Originally Posted by TubeDriver,Mar 10 2005, 10:29 AM
Viper, not only are you our tech guru, you should know (from memory) every mod on every single members cars. 
