(TCT) Timing Chain Tensioner
03-25-2007, 06:58 PM
#43
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Yeah, don't let the dealership take you for a ride on this... 
I understand your lack of time to do this repair also...
I'm in the same boat as you, but I decided after my local dealership was totally clueless on the matter to just make the time to carefully read and research on this exceptional site about the problem and found a link with step-by-step pics in detail and ended up doing this myself in about an hour total from start to finish...
If the dealership is competent enough about this issue, however, then you shouldn't have a problem getting it repaired properly and charged reasonably... On the other hand, if they're not, then they throw you every line and suggestion about replacing this and that for $xxx.xx...
I understand your lack of time to do this repair also...
I'm in the same boat as you, but I decided after my local dealership was totally clueless on the matter to just make the time to carefully read and research on this exceptional site about the problem and found a link with step-by-step pics in detail and ended up doing this myself in about an hour total from start to finish...
If the dealership is competent enough about this issue, however, then you shouldn't have a problem getting it repaired properly and charged reasonably... On the other hand, if they're not, then they throw you every line and suggestion about replacing this and that for $xxx.xx...
03-25-2007, 07:16 PM
#44
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Originally Posted by Bigbridrol' date='Mar 25 2007, 03:25 PM
I am taking it in tommorow, what would I call this problem to the mechanic and about how much will it cost?
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showt...dpost&p=9169796
If you're going to pay a Honda dealer to replace it for you, you might as well try to get Honda to pay for it.
08-04-2009, 11:01 AM
#48
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Billman250 Posted: Jan 18 2007, 04:01 AM
Its a while ago, but what was the outcome of this line of thought?
After a discussion about changing the OEM tensioner into a manual one (with a bolt) and reading this post I thought it was time
to pick up where this post was left.
Any new ideas?
Is the Billman solution - sandblasting the worm - still a good one, even after 2 years?
There is only 1 way for the licht blue piston to retract: the dark blue worm turns CW in relation to the piston.
Sandblasting wil make the surface rough and makes it harder to turn?
The oil entering the TCT is IMO creating a sort off pressurized oil film between the piston and the worm making it easy to turn CW or CCW making it easy to retract or expand (?) the piston while the engine is running = with oil pressure.
As soon as the pressure is gone the worm "locks" the piston in the position its in.
A bit like a ratchet but then a ratchet with indefinite positions.
But how do we get the TCT noise?
#1 - The oil pressure (hot or cold) by itself isn't enough to push the piston & worm both out?
#2 - The worm is stuck in the piston and the piston doesn't stay out when the oil pressure is gone?
#3 - Both??
Very strange
Spring pressure alone is probably not enough to put enough tension the chain.
Anyone?
I have a feeling the noise itself is resonating from this piece, due to it's distinct loud plastic clicking noise. Perhaps a series of untaught chain links hitting the top of it, which would colaborate with the speed of the click.
After a discussion about changing the OEM tensioner into a manual one (with a bolt) and reading this post I thought it was time
to pick up where this post was left.Any new ideas?
Is the Billman solution - sandblasting the worm - still a good one, even after 2 years?
There is only 1 way for the licht blue piston to retract: the dark blue worm turns CW in relation to the piston.
Sandblasting wil make the surface rough and makes it harder to turn?
The oil entering the TCT is IMO creating a sort off pressurized oil film between the piston and the worm making it easy to turn CW or CCW making it easy to retract or expand (?) the piston while the engine is running = with oil pressure.
As soon as the pressure is gone the worm "locks" the piston in the position its in.
A bit like a ratchet but then a ratchet with indefinite positions.
But how do we get the TCT noise?
#1 - The oil pressure (hot or cold) by itself isn't enough to push the piston & worm both out?
#2 - The worm is stuck in the piston and the piston doesn't stay out when the oil pressure is gone?
#3 - Both??
Very strange
Spring pressure alone is probably not enough to put enough tension the chain.
Anyone?
08-04-2009, 11:13 AM
#49
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my reason for posting is that as an engineer having done lots of problems on springs in school I can tell you guys that greenlight's model for the system is incorrect and adding a .25 inch is a gross overkill.
just intuitively if you experience clicking at low rpms then the problem is the spring if it is at high rpms then it is the oil pressure.
a quick fix for the spring problem could be adding washers to the base of the spring. this induces pre-load and could fix the problem. it's also much cheaper than buying another TCT and welding stuff.
my 0.02, i examined this system when I was planning on milling my head, but decided to go FI.
just intuitively if you experience clicking at low rpms then the problem is the spring if it is at high rpms then it is the oil pressure.
a quick fix for the spring problem could be adding washers to the base of the spring. this induces pre-load and could fix the problem. it's also much cheaper than buying another TCT and welding stuff.
my 0.02, i examined this system when I was planning on milling my head, but decided to go FI.