Robert O

That is my question. Should one remove the 2 bolt flange from the tct and use the proper threaded bolt to compress the assy or can it just be removed as a relaxed unit and replaced with a new one? Don't want parts to scatter all over if I can help it.Once removed I plan to keep the old one and perform the sandblast trick to the worm shaft and save for a spare.

Olegator

you dont need to compress anything. Just remove the two bolts needed to pull it out and ....pull it out

Robert O

Ok. Got it out.All of the oil ports and the oil pilot valve are clear and clean.I can clearly see how this little urchin is suppose to work now that I took her apart for a looksee. So if I get this straight , the o.d. of the worm shaft and or the i.d. of the piston tube the worm shaft travels within has developed excessive clearance causing the action to be sloppy and allowing excessive oil leakby,thus causing the unit opertion to fluctuate which leads to the infamous rattle?And by sandblasting the worm shaft it causes it to drag or travel less freely within the i.d. of the piston and cures this problem?

On another note ,as a few have opined on in some of the threads I searched,that following a recent oil change,which I just did,using a full synthetic oil could have possibly caused or helped this monster rear its ugly head by concievably allowing more flow leakby of the worm and piston which decreases the oil dampening effect?Particularly on a worn unit. Or am I overthinking this?

On another note : I did notice that the smaller diameter spring had a few slightly open coils near the middle whereas the rest of its coils were seated together. Anyone ever experience this?

SgtB

The outer piston can spin right off into the block if you're not careful. It takes very little to knock it loose.

Robert O

Yea. I saw that once I carefully removed the unit. Prolly be a good idea next time to remove the pilot valve access cover first and thread a 3" or so machine screw into the worm to keep things together.

ronnuke

You should only need to use the bolt and nut to retract the piston after you have sandblasted the wormgear and are ready to reinstall. Be sure to install the TCT and torque down its holddown bolts to proper torque then you can remove the retraction bolt and nut, and reinstall the oil jet and it's cover. Done.

Robert O

I'm still sorta fuzzy on the failure consensus of the TCT. After sveral searches it seems that Billmans sure fix was to sandblast the wormshaft as a remedy and in recent posts to another member he says his TCT units don't have the sandblasted worm shaft.Seems also there's a consensus that the oil feed port and return port are undersized and lead to the failure of the unit. I know from visual that it wouldn't take but a small piece of trash in the oil circuit to restrict these small ports but didn't note any restrictions in mine.I actually used a set of indexed tip cleaners in each port just to check. I did however note some scuffing wear on one side of the smoothe cylinder that the tensioner piston resides in. I'd think that would also be a potential issue.I just don't get Billman's stance either.If his suggestion is to blast the worm shaft,I'm not clear on why he would not do it on his refurbished ones. I would appreciate any input on this as I am truly interested in finding out all I can about this obvious problematic item and would like to follow the best lead in preventing near future problems with the TCT.

Billman250

Sandblasting the worm gear is the best thing to recommend to the DIY guys. It holds up well, 95% of the time it will last forever.

The units I sell have housing modifications.

Robert O

Like increasing the size of porting or what?Cause I can do that myself as well.Just wouldn't know what size.