T3/T4 Turbo sizes
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T3/T4 Turbo sizes
I want to put a T3/T4 hybrid turbo on my s. Ive heard of this being done and creating crazy amounts of horsepower. Im just wondering if anyone on here has done this. What I mainly want to know is what size turbos were used. Obviously a t3 and a t4 would be used but im thinking more specific.
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I bought a T3/T4. The main reason I went with this turbo is because 1) it can produce up to 400 rwhp 2) has a better resale value since more imports (accords, civics, etc) use a T3.
Its basically the best way to go IMO. If you are looking for like 1000 rwhp then go with like a HKS T51 but if you want to run 8psi on stock internals then I would suggest running a T3/T4
Its basically the best way to go IMO. If you are looking for like 1000 rwhp then go with like a HKS T51 but if you want to run 8psi on stock internals then I would suggest running a T3/T4
#3
There are many sizes of the the compressor wheel that you can get in a T3/T4, t3/t4 is not a final size you can get 57trim t3/t4 to 60trim to 60-1 t3/t4 each are differently efficient depending on how much boost you are planning to run.
Honestly building your own turbo kit is not worth the hassle, trust me I know, I did it. Had I know it was this much of a hassle i would have bought a turbo kit already pre made or a supercharger kit
Honestly building your own turbo kit is not worth the hassle, trust me I know, I did it. Had I know it was this much of a hassle i would have bought a turbo kit already pre made or a supercharger kit
#4
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Ray Hall Turbocharging is a good resource for turbo sizing. Depending on what you are willing to spend a T3/4 is likely overkill unless you can build the bottom end - 9:1 CR forged pistons, forged rods, blueprinted and sleeved block. Otherwise you're just sacrificing spoolup because you won't be able to safely run more than about 7-8psi. I does depend on the specs, though. Also take a look at the new GT Garrett turbos starting to become available.
I won't run more than 9.5 psi on my Miata which is 10:1 CR. The Miata block is the same as the 323 GTX turbo so it is a turbo block with oil squirters and so on. I also run water injection, a full aftermarket ECU with big injectors and a J&S SafeGuard system. At 11:1 on a high-rpm motor like the S2K not designed for FI I wouldn't run more than 8 even with water injection. Hell, to be honest I wouldn't run more than 6psi on an S2K.
At that point you want a fast spooling T25 or T28. Or even a really fast spooling small turbo like a kkk K03 from an Audi S4 might be nice - full (7lbs) boost by probably 2500 rpm on an S2k.
As far as doing it yourself - as long as you can weld and have access to a shop with grinders, air tools etcetera and can afford to have the car down for weeks to months you're OK. Otherwise you better be stupid rich. Bottom line is crazy power = crazy dollars.
I won't run more than 9.5 psi on my Miata which is 10:1 CR. The Miata block is the same as the 323 GTX turbo so it is a turbo block with oil squirters and so on. I also run water injection, a full aftermarket ECU with big injectors and a J&S SafeGuard system. At 11:1 on a high-rpm motor like the S2K not designed for FI I wouldn't run more than 8 even with water injection. Hell, to be honest I wouldn't run more than 6psi on an S2K.
At that point you want a fast spooling T25 or T28. Or even a really fast spooling small turbo like a kkk K03 from an Audi S4 might be nice - full (7lbs) boost by probably 2500 rpm on an S2k.
As far as doing it yourself - as long as you can weld and have access to a shop with grinders, air tools etcetera and can afford to have the car down for weeks to months you're OK. Otherwise you better be stupid rich. Bottom line is crazy power = crazy dollars.
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The Speedcraft kit uses a T4 60-1 Ball bearing unit and it works quite well. Full boost is achieved in the 3,500-4,000 RPM range and it's capable of supporting a fair amount of hp.
#7
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but I wouldn't touch one as I have seen 3 T60-1's prematurely fail on this board. It is an ok turbo, but not great
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