Synthetic Oil Use
11-07-2002, 06:21 PM
#11
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11-07-2002, 08:26 PM
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A good site on oil for the beginner, but biased toward Castrol. In the past, Castrol's best oil was castor bean based (thus the name). Not used anymore. The viscosity references are a little off. particularly in regards to temperature extremes. The diester synthetics have a strong detergent action and will dissolve varnish and gum, thus causing leaking through gaskets in older vehichles. Used in new motors, you will never experience a problem. Tear a motor down run on full diester synthetics and see how clean it is. The lack of varnish buildup also contributes to higher power output from reduced drag.
11-08-2002, 07:43 AM
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The owner's manual for my wife's 03 Honda Pilot calls for 5w-20.
Have you ever tried to find 5-20 full synthetic oil?? Good luck!!!
I opted for 5-30 Mobil One. These manufacturers are killing me.
Hope I don't void the warranty.
Have you ever tried to find 5-20 full synthetic oil?? Good luck!!!
I opted for 5-30 Mobil One. These manufacturers are killing me.
Hope I don't void the warranty.
11-08-2002, 08:11 AM
#14
With all these posts, are you guys trying to confuse the creator of this thread? Does he need to spend hours trying to select his oil? I still think that his best choice is a synthetic 10W-30, since he lives in San Antonio, TX. If he lived in Canada, then I can see 5W-30 or 0W-XX being a valid choice for winter, but not San Antonio. I also don't see any reason for him to use anything heavier than that in the summer, unless he is going to be tracking it.
11-08-2002, 07:26 PM
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Help me Rhonda! The rationale for the "thicker " oils in high temps just doesn't hold water anymore. Lightweight synthetics cool better in hot temps and have higher film strength at the molecular level. There is a ton on published data on this. Most of the rest is marketing to appease the masses. Indy cars run thin oils, talk about tracking it!
11-09-2002, 04:30 AM
#16
Originally posted by chipperman
Lightweight synthetics cool better in hot temps and have higher film strength at the molecular level. There is a ton on published data on this.
Lightweight synthetics cool better in hot temps and have higher film strength at the molecular level. There is a ton on published data on this.
11-09-2002, 07:03 AM
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Heh heh, this thread...
Anyway, I had my dealer tell me "Don't use anything besides 10W30" which was discussed above. But the thing that shocked me was when he said "Honda uses Valvoline from the factory, and we use that here, Valvoline is ALL you should ever use."
I thought factory fill was Mobil? Is this guy right? Is he getting a kickback from Valvoline? I don't know.
Anyway, I had my dealer tell me "Don't use anything besides 10W30" which was discussed above. But the thing that shocked me was when he said "Honda uses Valvoline from the factory, and we use that here, Valvoline is ALL you should ever use."
I thought factory fill was Mobil? Is this guy right? Is he getting a kickback from Valvoline? I don't know.
11-09-2002, 05:57 PM
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My reference volumes are boxed right now as I am remodeling, but check out neosyntheticoil.com for starters. When I put my library back, I will be able to give you about 20 references.
Also bush up on the Falex wear test by the Falex Corp. It will help you understand some differences about oil under stress.
The thicker oils provide an insulating cushion retarding heat flow away from the wear surface, and heat kills bearings or rotating surfaces. If you had cool metal to metal contact, all you would have would be shavings, not galling. The molecular strength is more important than the viscosity. Helicopters use polyalphaolephins which can operate up to 1000 F, but are not compatible with petroleum oils, one reason why you don't see them in cars. Also, diester oils dissolve neoprene about as fast as gasoline in a styrofoam cup, so your seals need to be buna-n. Most modern ones are so, but I learned the hard way that the fork seals in my 1983 BMW bike aren't. What is kind of amusing is that a lot of cars racing with Pennzoil or Valvoline stickers don't have a single product from them in any part of the car. For your street use, maybe the high end product doesn't make sense, but I make my living with machinery, and longevity, long change intervals, and the ability to resist the huge overloads put on the equipment have paid huge dividends.
Also bush up on the Falex wear test by the Falex Corp. It will help you understand some differences about oil under stress.
The thicker oils provide an insulating cushion retarding heat flow away from the wear surface, and heat kills bearings or rotating surfaces. If you had cool metal to metal contact, all you would have would be shavings, not galling. The molecular strength is more important than the viscosity. Helicopters use polyalphaolephins which can operate up to 1000 F, but are not compatible with petroleum oils, one reason why you don't see them in cars. Also, diester oils dissolve neoprene about as fast as gasoline in a styrofoam cup, so your seals need to be buna-n. Most modern ones are so, but I learned the hard way that the fork seals in my 1983 BMW bike aren't. What is kind of amusing is that a lot of cars racing with Pennzoil or Valvoline stickers don't have a single product from them in any part of the car. For your street use, maybe the high end product doesn't make sense, but I make my living with machinery, and longevity, long change intervals, and the ability to resist the huge overloads put on the equipment have paid huge dividends.
11-11-2002, 09:03 PM
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Okay, so I am buyiung a car (an '01) that has 3.4K miles, the original owner has recently changed the oil to synthetic. One of the guys above mentioned that you shouldn't use synthetic oil until about 7,500 miles. So, as soon as I get the car next week, what should I change it back to? Leave the synthetic? I live in San Diego....ave. temp 60-75 degrees F.
10W30? Please advise.
10W30? Please advise.