synthetic oil?
07-18-2005, 06:34 AM
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synthetic oil?
Hey everyone,
Everytime I start up the s2k, it's a little rough on startup... so I am going to change the oil to see if that helps.
For those that use synthetic oil, which one do you use? Do you feel a difference between that and regular oil? Do you need a special oil filter? I've never done it before so please forgive my ignorance. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
Everytime I start up the s2k, it's a little rough on startup... so I am going to change the oil to see if that helps.
For those that use synthetic oil, which one do you use? Do you feel a difference between that and regular oil? Do you need a special oil filter? I've never done it before so please forgive my ignorance. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
07-18-2005, 06:45 AM
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Originally Posted by M32,Jul 18 2005, 06:34 AM
Hey everyone,
Everytime I start up the s2k, it's a little rough on startup... so I am going to change the oil to see if that helps.
For those that use synthetic oil, which one do you use? Do you feel a difference between that and regular oil? Do you need a special oil filter? I've never done it before so please forgive my ignorance. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
Everytime I start up the s2k, it's a little rough on startup... so I am going to change the oil to see if that helps.
For those that use synthetic oil, which one do you use? Do you feel a difference between that and regular oil? Do you need a special oil filter? I've never done it before so please forgive my ignorance. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
yes snynthetic is better oil, IMO
07-18-2005, 11:42 AM
#3
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synthetic is beneificial to people who live in extreme temperatures (like death valley type stuff) or for those that want a longer drain interval between oil changes..
otherwise there are regular oils out there that "perform" just as well as synthetic oils do.
otherwise there are regular oils out there that "perform" just as well as synthetic oils do.
07-18-2005, 11:57 AM
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[QUOTE=M32,Jul 18 2005, 06:34 AM] Hey everyone,
Everytime I start up the s2k, it's a little rough on startup... so I am going to change the oil to see if that helps.
Everytime I start up the s2k, it's a little rough on startup... so I am going to change the oil to see if that helps.
07-18-2005, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by wwwracer,Jul 18 2005, 11:57 AM
i use redline 10W-30. it gives me 25 extra horses. 
j/k
check out the s2ki marketplace. they sell it there for a pretty good deal.
j/kcheck out the s2ki marketplace. they sell it there for a pretty good deal.
07-18-2005, 12:58 PM
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i am currently using mobile 1. Is it a problem to switch back from synthetic. I heard that once you go synthetic, that you had to continue using synthetic. any truth? what are the effects? damaging long term?
07-18-2005, 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by jal3lee,Jul 18 2005, 03:58 PM
i am currently using mobile 1. Is it a problem to switch back from synthetic. I heard that once you go synthetic, that you had to continue using synthetic. any truth? what are the effects? damaging long term?
It is Mobil 1, by the way. If you want to use a syn, the new Pennzoil Platinum has a more advanced base/additive package than M1.
I am using Havoline GF-4 spec oil in my S2000, with only 2300 miles on it. This formulation is so good that I may never switch to synoil at all. I know that today's best minoils are mostly synthetic anyway, as that term has been demoted because of Castrol's successful defense of the Texaco lawsuit. So the "synoil" that Castrol purveys is made of much of the same severely hydrocracked and isomerized base stocks as - yup - that low-dollar Havoline! While I was an early adopter of synoil in the 1970's, the World has changed, and the marketing of synoil looks more and more like a pure money grab to me - and I was a tribologist before I became an IT specialist.
Once, the savvy gearhead used synoil - now it is almost the reverse. As Wisocnsin S2K said, syns are best deployed in Death Valley or Siberia, or for extended drain intervals. Otherwise, there is not much to be gained over "conventional" oils.
Hydrocracking removes many of the impurities and provides many of the performance benefits as synoils, for a fraction of the price.
The bottom line is used oil analysis - here, the wear metals of the best minoils are as good, and often better, than synoils. One reason is that minoils seem to uprake the add pack better, and become effective at lower temps, below 200 degF. Combine that with their greatly improved low temp pour pints (the result of higher monomolecularity and advanced pour point depressants), and the "advantages" of synoil continue to fade.
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07-18-2005, 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Road Rage,Jul 18 2005, 02:47 PM
That is a myth - you can switch back at any time with no ill effects. I generally do not recommend switching to synoil in older cars, for a varuety of reasons, but you can go back to mineral-based oil at any time.
It is Mobil 1, by the way. If you want to use a syn, the new Pennzoil Platinum has a more advanced base/additive package than M1.
I am using Havoline GF-4 spec oil in my S2000, with only 2300 miles on it. This formulation is so good that I may never switch to synoil at all. I know that today's best minoils are mostly synthetic anyway, as that term has been demoted because of Castrol's successful defense of the Texaco lawsuit. So the "synoil" that Castrol purveys is made of much of the same severely hydrocracked and isomerized base stocks as - yup - that low-dollar Havoline! While I was an early adopter of synoil in the 1970's, the World has changed, and the marketing of synoil looks more and more like a pure money grab to me - and I was a tribologist before I became an IT specialist.
Once, the savvy gearhead used synoil - now it is almost the reverse. As Wisocnsin S2K said, syns are best deployed in Death Valley or Siberia, or for extended drain intervals. Otherwise, there is not much to be gained over "conventional" oils.
Hydrocracking removes many of the impurities and provides many of the performance benefits as synoils, for a fraction of the price.
The bottom line is used oil analysis - here, the wear metals of the best minoils are as good, and often better, than synoils. One reason is that minoils seem to uprake the add pack better, and become effective at lower temps, below 200 degF. Combine that with their greatly improved low temp pour pints (the result of higher monomolecularity and advanced pour point depressants), and the "advantages" of synoil continue to fade.
It is Mobil 1, by the way. If you want to use a syn, the new Pennzoil Platinum has a more advanced base/additive package than M1.
I am using Havoline GF-4 spec oil in my S2000, with only 2300 miles on it. This formulation is so good that I may never switch to synoil at all. I know that today's best minoils are mostly synthetic anyway, as that term has been demoted because of Castrol's successful defense of the Texaco lawsuit. So the "synoil" that Castrol purveys is made of much of the same severely hydrocracked and isomerized base stocks as - yup - that low-dollar Havoline! While I was an early adopter of synoil in the 1970's, the World has changed, and the marketing of synoil looks more and more like a pure money grab to me - and I was a tribologist before I became an IT specialist.
Once, the savvy gearhead used synoil - now it is almost the reverse. As Wisocnsin S2K said, syns are best deployed in Death Valley or Siberia, or for extended drain intervals. Otherwise, there is not much to be gained over "conventional" oils.
Hydrocracking removes many of the impurities and provides many of the performance benefits as synoils, for a fraction of the price.
The bottom line is used oil analysis - here, the wear metals of the best minoils are as good, and often better, than synoils. One reason is that minoils seem to uprake the add pack better, and become effective at lower temps, below 200 degF. Combine that with their greatly improved low temp pour pints (the result of higher monomolecularity and advanced pour point depressants), and the "advantages" of synoil continue to fade.
So you recommend Havoline? Can you spellit out for me? Sorry, not sure what you are trying to say
07-18-2005, 03:04 PM
#9
He says that synthetic oil is really no better for most people than a good dino (dinosaur or "natural") motor oil. He says that if you are going to use a synthetic that the new Pennzoil Platinum is somewhat better than the Mobil 1. The Mobil 1 is still a fine sythetic oil. He says that the Havoline GF-4 is sold as a non synthetic although with high quality oils, the definition of synthetic or non-synthetic is rather loose.
Yes, he is recommending the Havoline GF-4.
BTW, Road Rage is our oil guru.
Yes, he is recommending the Havoline GF-4.
BTW, Road Rage is our oil guru.
07-18-2005, 03:08 PM
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Walmart sells Pennzoil Platinum for about 40 cents less than Mobil1
Texaco/Havoline newer formulation is the one you should use, you should look at the back of the bottle and looking for these: "SM" and "GF-4"
Walmart sells these Halvoline oils for about $1.4/quart, you should use 10W30 with Honda PCX filter.
Texaco/Havoline newer formulation is the one you should use, you should look at the back of the bottle and looking for these: "SM" and "GF-4"
Walmart sells these Halvoline oils for about $1.4/quart, you should use 10W30 with Honda PCX filter.