Synchromesh Transmission Fluid
07-09-2002, 10:40 AM
#22
Yes it's the other way around according to xviper.
Just copied this from xviper's Home Oil Change 101 thread:
"screw on the oil bolt by hand, then more with the socket, then a final "torquing" to 29 ft#'s. NOTE: Whether you use a new crush ring or the old one, take note that the ring has two distinct sides to it. One side is very flat leading to a sharp edge. The other is a bit more "rounded" leading to a more smooth edge. The "flat" edge is what mates with the engine side. If you are re-using the old ring, clean off the bolt and ring first before install."
Just copied this from xviper's Home Oil Change 101 thread:
"screw on the oil bolt by hand, then more with the socket, then a final "torquing" to 29 ft#'s. NOTE: Whether you use a new crush ring or the old one, take note that the ring has two distinct sides to it. One side is very flat leading to a sharp edge. The other is a bit more "rounded" leading to a more smooth edge. The "flat" edge is what mates with the engine side. If you are re-using the old ring, clean off the bolt and ring first before install."
07-09-2002, 11:27 AM
#24
Registered User
Uhhh... it doesn't matter what side the crush washer faces- it's a CRUSH washer. It's intended to deform and mate with both the transmission housing and the bolt head. I'm not sure where xviper got that from...
The rounded edge comes from the die/strike method of stamping the washer from a piece of soft sheet. You are fine installing them either way. They are there to prevent leaking, check the bolt and if it's not leaking... you don't need to worry.
The rounded edge comes from the die/strike method of stamping the washer from a piece of soft sheet. You are fine installing them either way. They are there to prevent leaking, check the bolt and if it's not leaking... you don't need to worry.
07-09-2002, 11:34 AM
#25
[QUOTE]Originally posted by marcucci
[B]Uhhh... it doesn't matter what side the crush washer faces- it's a CRUSH washer. It's intended to deform and mate with both the transmission housing and the bolt head. I'm not sure where xviper got that from...
[B]Uhhh... it doesn't matter what side the crush washer faces- it's a CRUSH washer. It's intended to deform and mate with both the transmission housing and the bolt head. I'm not sure where xviper got that from...
07-15-2002, 10:39 AM
#26
I wanted to tell everyone how wonderfull the Synchromesh was this weekend at the local Porsche Club autocross. In all my past autocrosses, I would do everything I could to avoid using 1st gear, so that I could avoid grinding back into 2nd. When I am autocrossing, my nervous shifting generally gives me a 33% success rate from 1st to 2nd without a grind.
Anyway, the course was setup perfectly for a test of the new oil. The course was so tight, that I had to go to 1st in 5 places (not including the launch). There were 8 runs, which meant that I had to do a minimum of 48 1-2 shifts. I was able to go the entire day (including the 200 miles to / from the event) without grinding! The shifting was so confidence inspiring, that I was actually going into 1st more than 5 times per lap at the end of the day, just trying different approaches to the course. I think I'm in Love!
Has anyone other than Prolene and myself tried it?
Prolene: Do you have any other comments?
Anyway, the course was setup perfectly for a test of the new oil. The course was so tight, that I had to go to 1st in 5 places (not including the launch). There were 8 runs, which meant that I had to do a minimum of 48 1-2 shifts. I was able to go the entire day (including the 200 miles to / from the event) without grinding! The shifting was so confidence inspiring, that I was actually going into 1st more than 5 times per lap at the end of the day, just trying different approaches to the course. I think I'm in Love!
Has anyone other than Prolene and myself tried it?
Prolene: Do you have any other comments?
07-22-2002, 07:52 AM
#28
Registered User
I have some news that might be worthwhile here.
In tearing down an H22 Prelude transmission for a rebuild, I've had the chance to break down the mainshaft and take a look at how the tranny is oiled. The orifices are VERY SMALL. I will take pics and measure them, but at first glance they appear to be no more than 1/8", more like .1" in diameter. I would suspect that anything thicker than the stock fluid might be an issue with proper lubrication, at least in the Prelude tranny.
It may very well be that when the tranny gets hot, the Honda fluid gets too thin. It would be nice to have detailed specs on their oil! I'm interested to see how the Synchromesh does considering the Honda fluid apparently doesn't do well enough, at least for ginding. If it's eating away at the bearings and mainshaft, though, it might not be worth it.
In tearing down an H22 Prelude transmission for a rebuild, I've had the chance to break down the mainshaft and take a look at how the tranny is oiled. The orifices are VERY SMALL. I will take pics and measure them, but at first glance they appear to be no more than 1/8", more like .1" in diameter. I would suspect that anything thicker than the stock fluid might be an issue with proper lubrication, at least in the Prelude tranny.
It may very well be that when the tranny gets hot, the Honda fluid gets too thin. It would be nice to have detailed specs on their oil! I'm interested to see how the Synchromesh does considering the Honda fluid apparently doesn't do well enough, at least for ginding. If it's eating away at the bearings and mainshaft, though, it might not be worth it.
07-22-2002, 08:19 AM
#30
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It may be that with a 'fully warmed' transmission the flow through those passages might not be a problem. When starting up, and especially in cold weather, this _might_ be a problem. As long as my transmission is shifting as well as it is, I will continue to use Synchromesh and exchange better shifting and less wear because of this for possible more wear in other aspects. I think any problem with show up ultimately with poor shifting, anyway. Hoping for the best.