thirstys2k

Thanks for the tips guys. I just switched to conventional (castrol GTX 10w-30) today so hopefully it will reduce my consumption a bit. If not perhaps I'll try a 40 weight or high mileage oil next time around as JFUSION suggested.

I'd be very interested to see how much my oil consumption would decline if I drove this car like a sane person and stayed out of vtec for a few hundred miles, but that's not why I bought this car! I'm certain my excess vtec usage is a big part of my oil consumption, as I said it is not rare for my car to see 9000rpm 20+ times a day.

Anyways, I guess we shall see.

MBHs2k

Yeah try not hitting v tec as often. I am sure you will notice a difference. I dont even hit vtec 20 times a month let alone 20 a day.

INDYMAC

I'll have to say after being around here for a couple of years that many AP1 owners report high oil consumption and it's probably "normal". But the cars that seem to start increasing in consumption could possibly experiencing greater blow-by due to ring coking or a PCV system/emmissions problem (assuming that there are no engine oil leaks). If it were my car, I would look for leaks, change the PCV valve, and try this product:

http://auto-rx.com/pages/heavy_oil_burning.html

Since you have just changed the oil and filter, this would be a great time to start. Follow the directions and see what happens. You really don't have anything to lose. If it doesn't work, then you will probably need some engine work done. I have never used this product for high oil consumption, but have used it for other applications with 100% success. If there is a miracle in a bottle, this is it! Good luck.

starchland

please report back your findings. I was going to suggest GTX. It seems to be a stout package from reading UOAs and the superior burn off protection claim would be nice to see proved.

thirstys2k

INDYMAC, is that auto-rx stuff basically the same idea as the oil consumption products they sell at local part stores? Essentially the stuff is thick like molasses and you add it to your oil and it's supposed to help prevent oil getting past your seals.

Starchland, I will report back. I'm going to try not to hit vtec as often but then again if I do that it may bias my results and the reduced consumption could be due to less vtec'ing and not the different oil! We will see.

S2k007

I've only gotten my oil changed at Honda. Is the oil Honda uses conventional or synthetic?

thirstys2k

^Always conventional. Unless you specifically request synthetic, but you'd notice if they were putting synthetic in because it costs a whole lot more.

zeroptzero

[QUOTE=thirstys2k,Mar 19 2010, 07:41 PM] INDYMAC, is that auto-rx stuff basically the same idea as the oil consumption products they sell at local part stores?

INDYMAC

As JFUSION mentioned, Auto-Rx is unlike anything else you will find OTC. It is a metal cleaner. It will not add anything to your engine, just take away bad stuff that might have accumulated over time. I'm recommending it to you as a probable solution because it's possible that your rings are coked up causing blow-by and compression loss. A before and after compression check would be ideal for you to evaluate the performance of the product. That's what others have done.

Here is how it works from their website:

Auto-Rx® is made up of three ester groups. The lanolin ester is the main cleaning agent. Its function is to impregnate the surface of varnish and cooked up deposits. The second is an aliphatic ester. Its function is to provide for better film forming of the host oil, eliminating the potential of dry spots in the oiling system, during the cleaning process. This component is also very resistant to oxidation and is a supplement to the host oil while the contamination is being removed and deposited to the filtration media. The last ester is a biodegradable, polyol ester, which provides extra, extreme pressure capability to the host oil. Utilizing heat, pressure, and flow generated within the oiling system, Auto-Rx® safely and effectively dissolves deposits. Deposits form slowly over time; they should be cleaned slowly and methodically, as well.

The ester combination provides polarity to the host oil, giving the lubricant an attraction to metal surfaces, reclaiming these surfaces from the contamination. Lubricating oils perform well in clean working conditions. Lubricating oils can either lubricate or clean. They cannot do both well. Detergents in motor oils are added to try and maintain a clean system. They do little to nothing on deposits that have already formed.

SpitfireS

Or try the new Pennzoil Ultra.
Supposed to be tha bomb when it comes to cleaning up sludgde & deposits.
It comes in 5W-30.