Swapping Low Mileage Engine !! How should i prep before install ???
06-06-2018, 04:49 AM
#11
Community Organizer
What year is the NEW/used engine? If it's early '02 or prior I would check the engine number(NOT VIN) for there was a switch over to the 4way banjo bolts vs. 2 way. More oil squirting up on the bottom of the pistons.
Oh and since it's out of the car take every accessory off the car and scrub the aluminum with a wire brush to get rid of any white oxidation. Give it a good wash/scrub and think about either putting a coat of high temp matte clear or possibly black to dress up the block and prevent future oxidation. Wish I did this with my '02 replacement into my '00.
ACT Pressure Plate & OEM disk with NEW OEM TO bearing is a MUST in my book.
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noahw526 (06-08-2018)
06-06-2018, 05:15 AM
#12
Yes, if you treat it right you should be able to run AP1 retainers for the life of the car! Just watch them for signs of going bad.
What year is the NEW/used engine? If it's early '02 or prior I would check the engine number(NOT VIN) for there was a switch over to the 4way banjo bolts vs. 2 way. More oil squirting up on the bottom of the pistons.
Oh and since it's out of the car take every accessory off the car and scrub the aluminum with a wire brush to get rid of any white oxidation. Give it a good wash/scrub and think about either putting a coat of high temp matte clear or possibly black to dress up the block and prevent future oxidation. Wish I did this with my '02 replacement into my '00.
ACT Pressure Plate & OEM disk with NEW OEM TO bearing is a MUST in my book.
What year is the NEW/used engine? If it's early '02 or prior I would check the engine number(NOT VIN) for there was a switch over to the 4way banjo bolts vs. 2 way. More oil squirting up on the bottom of the pistons.
Oh and since it's out of the car take every accessory off the car and scrub the aluminum with a wire brush to get rid of any white oxidation. Give it a good wash/scrub and think about either putting a coat of high temp matte clear or possibly black to dress up the block and prevent future oxidation. Wish I did this with my '02 replacement into my '00.
ACT Pressure Plate & OEM disk with NEW OEM TO bearing is a MUST in my book.
^^^^^ good info!!!
I plan to scrub it down really nice, but didnt think about painting it. Might have to ponder on that one !
Can i ask why the ACT Pressure Plate ? I plan to go with a OEM disk, but would you recommend where to get one? Ebay cheaper for the same Exedy Disk?
and about the Throw out bearing... damn new OEM ones cost around 200$ ????
See the link below for one off ebay, Says is HONDA OEM but its made by " NACHI " So is this the OEM brand maybe ??
Ebay Throw Out Bearing
06-06-2018, 11:24 AM
#14
DO NOT use an exedy so called oem disk. Its not oem, and it sucks, will last maybe 20k milrs, then a spring will fall out. They cleverly call their disk oem, trying to lure people into thinking they are the oem manufacturer. They're not, its deceptive marketing.
There was a recent thread where a guys starter died, and he disassembled, cleaned and lubed it, and now its working fine again. Starter is not cheap. I would just do what he did and clean it up and lube it. Look for his thread.
There was a recent thread where a guys starter died, and he disassembled, cleaned and lubed it, and now its working fine again. Starter is not cheap. I would just do what he did and clean it up and lube it. Look for his thread.
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noahw526 (06-08-2018)
06-06-2018, 01:29 PM
#15
Community Organizer
Check out https://hardtopguy.com/store/234.html Or something else on his site.
Not much experience with the specifics surrounding the TO Bearing and re-using or using non-OEM.
Look up "Banjo Bolts" crossover engine number or something like that! It's not necessarily a PROBLEM but they changed it for a reason! It should be VERY easy to get done while engine is out of the car.
DON'T USE THE Exedy garbage.
Not much experience with the specifics surrounding the TO Bearing and re-using or using non-OEM.
Look up "Banjo Bolts" crossover engine number or something like that! It's not necessarily a PROBLEM but they changed it for a reason! It should be VERY easy to get done while engine is out of the car.
DON'T USE THE Exedy garbage.
06-06-2018, 02:52 PM
#16
Good suggestions. I know it's been said many times but worth re-iterating - Exedy do not make oem clutches for the s2000. FCC (Fuji Chemical Company) manufacture them.
Exedy clutch components for the S2000 (as stated above) are garbage - unless perhaps you go into the multi-plate carbon units however they cost a few thousand $.
Exedy clutch components for the S2000 (as stated above) are garbage - unless perhaps you go into the multi-plate carbon units however they cost a few thousand $.
06-07-2018, 04:22 AM
#17
DO NOT use an exedy so called oem disk. Its not oem, and it sucks, will last maybe 20k milrs, then a spring will fall out. They cleverly call their disk oem, trying to lure people into thinking they are the oem manufacturer. They're not, its deceptive marketing.
There was a recent thread where a guys starter died, and he disassembled, cleaned and lubed it, and now its working fine again. Starter is not cheap. I would just do what he did and clean it up and lube it. Look for his thread.
There was a recent thread where a guys starter died, and he disassembled, cleaned and lubed it, and now its working fine again. Starter is not cheap. I would just do what he did and clean it up and lube it. Look for his thread.
Yea i saw that thread and will check it out for my starter!
Check out https://hardtopguy.com/store/234.html Or something else on his site.
Not much experience with the specifics surrounding the TO Bearing and re-using or using non-OEM.
Look up "Banjo Bolts" crossover engine number or something like that! It's not necessarily a PROBLEM but they changed it for a reason! It should be VERY easy to get done while engine is out of the car.
DON'T USE THE Exedy garbage.
Not much experience with the specifics surrounding the TO Bearing and re-using or using non-OEM.
Look up "Banjo Bolts" crossover engine number or something like that! It's not necessarily a PROBLEM but they changed it for a reason! It should be VERY easy to get done while engine is out of the car.
DON'T USE THE Exedy garbage.
Here is my : VIN JHMAP11482T002764
I will try and cross reference it, and see what i can come up with!
Good suggestions. I know it's been said many times but worth re-iterating - Exedy do not make oem clutches for the s2000. FCC (Fuji Chemical Company) manufacture them.
Exedy clutch components for the S2000 (as stated above) are garbage - unless perhaps you go into the multi-plate carbon units however they cost a few thousand $.
Exedy clutch components for the S2000 (as stated above) are garbage - unless perhaps you go into the multi-plate carbon units however they cost a few thousand $.
06-07-2018, 07:09 PM
#18
Get Honda urea grease. Make sure you know parts to grease and how much to use. Read the diys on how to do clutch job. A few gotchas with things like difficult to acces upper starter bolt, and long and short trans bellhousing mounting bolts, which you do want to mix up (use short bolt in wrong hole, strip threads. Long bolt in wrong hole, crack block!)
The parts you're planning to use are the go to recommendations. Only thing to add is a lightweight flywheel.
The parts you're planning to use are the go to recommendations. Only thing to add is a lightweight flywheel.
06-08-2018, 06:19 AM
#19
Community Organizer
Not VIN...........ENGINE #. If you are after 1025230 you likely have it..........likely but after about another 50 engines is almost a guarantee it has the new bolts.
Quoting from Billman250.
Where is it? - On the engine block by the cylinder head, by the front left corner of the valve cover. It is also on a large white sticker on the timing cover. 50/50 shot of reading it there. If your car is clean you should be able to read it off the timing cover.
How do I read it? It will read from front to back: F20C1-10xxxxx
Quoting from Billman250.
Where is it? - On the engine block by the cylinder head, by the front left corner of the valve cover. It is also on a large white sticker on the timing cover. 50/50 shot of reading it there. If your car is clean you should be able to read it off the timing cover.
How do I read it? It will read from front to back: F20C1-10xxxxx
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noahw526 (06-08-2018)
06-08-2018, 09:27 AM
#20
Get Honda urea grease. Make sure you know parts to grease and how much to use. Read the diys on how to do clutch job. A few gotchas with things like difficult to acces upper starter bolt, and long and short trans bellhousing mounting bolts, which you do want to mix up (use short bolt in wrong hole, strip threads. Long bolt in wrong hole, crack block!)
The parts you're planning to use are the go to recommendations. Only thing to add is a lightweight flywheel.
The parts you're planning to use are the go to recommendations. Only thing to add is a lightweight flywheel.
Yea, i have come into the bolt length problem before, thats why after the first clutch job i started laying out every single little peice i took off out on a table. In the Exact order i took them out, and writing everything down as i go!
Thanks!
Not VIN...........ENGINE #. If you are after 1025230 you likely have it..........likely but after about another 50 engines is almost a guarantee it has the new bolts.
Quoting from Billman250.
Where is it? - On the engine block by the cylinder head, by the front left corner of the valve cover. It is also on a large white sticker on the timing cover. 50/50 shot of reading it there. If your car is clean you should be able to read it off the timing cover.
How do I read it? It will read from front to back: F20C1-10xxxxx
Quoting from Billman250.
Where is it? - On the engine block by the cylinder head, by the front left corner of the valve cover. It is also on a large white sticker on the timing cover. 50/50 shot of reading it there. If your car is clean you should be able to read it off the timing cover.
How do I read it? It will read from front to back: F20C1-10xxxxx
Thanks!
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Pinky (06-08-2018)
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