clio

^^
I try not to mess with plugs in alloy more than I have to. If I have to remove plugs then new ones go in.

jkelley

I only DONT use anti-seize with NEW ngk plugs (which is all I use). If I'm pulling them for inspection or a comp test or something I apply just a little bit and put them back in.

BTW your old plugs look great. Looks like they have a lot of life left tbh.

yamahaSHO

I have never not used anti-seize on plugs. I also understand that torque values can go down 30-40%, however, I do it by hand and haven't had an issue on any car.

Memo6453

I torqued to 20ft# as per DIY. And car idles smooth with new plugs. Placebo effect of new plugs, because old plugs was also smooth lol. I love this car.

Next, I'll be changing diff and tranny fluids... Hope these fluid pumps I bought work well. Ended up with Mobil 1 75w-90 gear oil (1qt) and Honda MTF (2qt). Just waiting on washers to do the job.

nissanfanatic

I had mine out all the time on my KA-T 240sx. I always torqued to spec using anti-seize and never had an issue.

cosmomiller

Here is NGK's tech bulletin on anti-sieze. I have re-installed them a few times as my extension was popping out of the socket and I had to remove the plug to get the socket and try again. I was not concerned as the plugs were not used at all and the coating was fine. I saw in other NGK literature that you can do a reinstall at least once without anti-sieze. If the people who engineer it and make it, with years of product research under their belt, say don't use anti-sieze, don't use it.

BTW, I solved the problem with the socket detaching by getting a Craftsman "locking" extension; it has a black lever that locks the ball bearing so it cannot detach from the socket until you unlock it.


http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/tb-...1antisieze.pdf