Memo6453

Ok, so i changed out my plugs (PITA with a worn out extension) and here are the plugs. What do you guys think about how they look? Car is 2007 and has 19,800 miles. Im 3rd owner, and i think these aren't OEM plugs as they are the same Platinum i replaced them with. each plug has 2 pictures starting with Rear most plug to front towards front bumper. After install car fired right up and everything seems ok. Following the DIY and torqued to 20 ft# and used Dielectric grease on coil end. Previous plugs were way tight. That rubber mallet came in handy. Only issue i had since extension was worn, it kept detaching from the socket. I tried the electrical tape method and it only made things worse as the tape would tear and half stayed on socket and half on extension. Luckily the plug was already in there a couple turns and i was able to retrieve all tape out of the spark plug cylinder. What worked for me was to barely put socket onto plug and torque it. No stripping, and it worked like a charm. Only way i could get spark plug socket to come off the plug.

jcconnox

Those look way better than mine did when I pulled em at 100k. I'm also a 3rd owner, so yeah pretty sure mine had been in there since day one.

Anyway the OEM plug is the NKG PFR7G-11S (AKA 7772), which those appear to be.

Also buy a new extension. They're like 10 bucks at harbor freight.

Memo6453

Yea I'm going to get a better extension. And I just realized oem is same as I replaced. The DIY mentioned oem plugs need anti seize and NGK didn't. Guess I replaced with exact same plugs. Thx

zeroptzero

Plugs look great, you changed them too early by the looks of it as they had lots of life left in them, but no worries. They look like the OEM plat. plugs to me, but I can't see the entire code number on the plugs in those pics.

clio

Correct me if I'm wrong but I don't think it is good practice to use anti-seize on any spark plugs. Anti seize will lubricate the thread and can alter the resulting torque values significantly when tightened. Correct torque settings are obviously vital on an alloy head.
I'll preface this comment by stating that I'm not a mechanic, just an enthusiastic amateur that picks up pieces of info here and there.
Any mechanics here that could comment?

dwight

The used plugs look like OEM plugs, PFR7G-11S (7772), which are platinum.

You don't have any pictures of the plugs you replaced them with, but you used the word iridium twice, but used the platinum stock number. So if you used IFR7G-11KS (7746) plugs, then you didn't replace it with exactly the same, but they work fine.

Memo6453

sorry meant Platinum plugs yes the plugs i pulled out were the same as i put in. #7772 NGK. I didn't realize these were also OEM, i thought they were HONDA ones, but i guess they are NGK plugs in Honda box so they can sell them as OEM.

Pullled out and replaced with these:
NGK Laser Platinum Spark Plug Part# 7722

dwight

No problem. I assumed that you misspoke with "iridium". By the way, the rear most plug is #4. The front most is #1. The numbering starts at the crank pulley.

zeroptzero

a tiny bit of anti-seize is fine, particularly if you are going to leave the plugs in for the recommended 100k miles. I hate seeing dry rusted spark plugs come out of plug holes as they squeak their way out. I've used it on hundreds of plugs and never had a torque issue. Anti-seize can mess with torque values in some critical settings like head bolts, but it wouldn't do much for spark plugs with a relatively low torque recommendation. NGK doesn't recommend it on their new plugs as they have a coating on them, but if you ever remove and reinstall the plugs then you could use anti-seize on them. I like to use a small bit to keep the threads from going dry and galling /rusting.

nissanfanatic

Been using anti-seize on plugs for the last ten years on all my cars.