Suggestions for snapping off oil drain bolt?
02-05-2005, 08:47 AM
#21
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Damn, I finally got the stupid bolt off using a Craftsman Bolt Out from Sears. After that I went to Honda and bought a new bolt and everything went smoothly. The new bolt went back into the oil pan with no problems ... Not sure why I had so much trouble getting it out in the first place. Hopefully next oil change will be easier since I was the one to tighten the oil drain bolt this time ...
02-05-2005, 10:04 AM
#23
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If you didn't, put "Never-Seize" on the bolt at the next oil change. You can buy this in any auto parts store. It's molybdenum and grease (silver colored). It's extremely tenacious, and will keep the bolt from seizing.
As general policy, I use this on any nut/bolt that I take off any car. I live in NY State, and we use ALOT of salt in the winter. This works esp. nicely on lug nuts..
BTW, for any doubters, this stuff doesn't make bolts unloosen, or fall out by themselves..
As general policy, I use this on any nut/bolt that I take off any car. I live in NY State, and we use ALOT of salt in the winter. This works esp. nicely on lug nuts..
BTW, for any doubters, this stuff doesn't make bolts unloosen, or fall out by themselves..
02-05-2005, 10:20 AM
#24
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Originally Posted by JDR159' date='Feb 5 2005, 02:04 PM
If you didn't, put "Never-Seize" on the bolt at the next oil change. You can buy this in any auto parts store. It's molybdenum and grease (silver colored). It's extremely tenacious, and will keep the bolt from seizing.
As general policy, I use this on any nut/bolt that I take off any car. I live in NY State, and we use ALOT of salt in the winter. This works esp. nicely on lug nuts..
BTW, for any doubters, this stuff doesn't make bolts unloosen, or fall out by themselves..
As general policy, I use this on any nut/bolt that I take off any car. I live in NY State, and we use ALOT of salt in the winter. This works esp. nicely on lug nuts..
BTW, for any doubters, this stuff doesn't make bolts unloosen, or fall out by themselves..
I didn't tighten the bolt nearly as tight as it was originally in there... My jack couldn't lift the car high enough to use the torque wrench to get a good reading but I think it should be tight enough (its about a half turn more then what would easily turn with the socket wrench).
My father who is a lot more experienced with DIY car work than I am said the same thing as Road Rage ... use a box wrench, so I'm going to pick one up before the next time I change the oil.
02-07-2005, 03:16 PM
#25
You had some good suggestions. Glad you got it off.
Generally the best and easiest way is "leverage" and good grip. As you may have learned, use a box end wrench because it warps all the way around the head. Use one with the least amount of points, i.e. 6 is better than 12, since that places more flat gripping surface againt the side of the bolt. 12 would be better than 6 only if you are working in a tight area that does not allow you to push the wrench far. But the real secret is leverage. I keep a 3-foot cast iron pipe with duct tape over the sharp ridges at the end. I slip the pipe over the handle of the wrench. The duct tape protects the wrench from being scrapped or cut. Thus you expand the hand from about 6" to 3'.... you can't believe how much easier a stubborn bolt or nut will come off with good leverage until you try it.
PB Blaster is an excellent penetrating oil but I wouldn't consider it the same as never-seize. But when it comes to an oil drain plug bolt you should not need anything more than a new washer and tightening it to spec's.
Generally the best and easiest way is "leverage" and good grip. As you may have learned, use a box end wrench because it warps all the way around the head. Use one with the least amount of points, i.e. 6 is better than 12, since that places more flat gripping surface againt the side of the bolt. 12 would be better than 6 only if you are working in a tight area that does not allow you to push the wrench far. But the real secret is leverage. I keep a 3-foot cast iron pipe with duct tape over the sharp ridges at the end. I slip the pipe over the handle of the wrench. The duct tape protects the wrench from being scrapped or cut. Thus you expand the hand from about 6" to 3'.... you can't believe how much easier a stubborn bolt or nut will come off with good leverage until you try it.
PB Blaster is an excellent penetrating oil but I wouldn't consider it the same as never-seize. But when it comes to an oil drain plug bolt you should not need anything more than a new washer and tightening it to spec's.
02-08-2005, 04:03 AM
#26
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Just for future reference , what is this Craftsman bolt out? Hopefully one would never be used on my S, but my 87 toyota van doesn't ALWAYS respond to sledge hammer & vice grips 
02-08-2005, 12:02 PM
#27
Are you goin the correct direction? Remember righty tighty, lefty loosy. j/k
j/k
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