Tedow

Last night, after having no problems starting the car recently (drove from work to a bar with no issues), I had to get a jump start. When I turned the key, some of the dash lights came on as usual, but the speedo didn't do it's usual "rev" up and down and the interior lights were dim. Upon pushing the start button, I got no engine crank, only a very rapid whir/clicking noise. Headlights had not been left on.

I got a friend to give me a jump, and the car ran fine. Headlights were on and apparently the right brightness, and the car survived the 15-20 minute drive home with no problem. This morning, same problem...dim interior lights, one reluctant crank, then the rapid whirring again.

So obviously I have an electrical problem. However, I'm concerned at the apparent rapid onset...no problems at all to complete loss of battery power in the space of a couple hours. I mean, when my original battery started getting low the car was obviously reluctant to start for a period of a week or more before I replaced the battery. This time, no indication of low battery at all. At the moment the obvious source of the problem to me is the alternator...

1) If it is the alternator, it's clearly not completely non-functional, or the car would not have driven 15 minutes after being jumped correct?

2) Would a failing alternator generate the rapid battery power loss I'm seeing?

3) Is the rapid whirring sound the starter motor gear-thingy failing to turn the flywheel and having its teeth slip? Something else?

4) Am I totally wrong, and just have a bad battery (it's a yellow top, maybe a year old)? As potentially related information. A few weeks ago I went out of town for 4-5 days and came back to discover I'd left an interior light on. The battery was so low that even with it jumped to my roomie's Cavalier (running), I had to let it charge for a couple minutes before it had enough juice to crank the engine. So perhaps the battery was damaged at this point. However, as I said, the car has started since then with no complaints/hesitation.

Anyone got some thoughts? Battery? Alternator? Some kind of voltage "leak" somewhere?

Wisconsin S2k

I'd get the battery tested first, and see if it's even holding a charge. A batteries plus or most battery places can do such a test. Next would be the alternator test. Those are your first logical steps IMO.

ZaToIChI

I am experiencing the same issue

Slows2k

Usually, alternators work or not. The most common failures are stuck/worn brushes. It is fairly uncommon for a alternator failure on a S.

The alternator will put out enough current to supply all the electrical loads on the car, and charge the battery. Unless the battery has a shorted cell, the alternator will keep it running even on a battery incapable of holding a charge.

The Yellow Top Optima battery is supposed to be a deep cycle battery, a battery that can be quickly discharged at Max amp output and not damage itself. standard batteries will sulfate the plates when deep cycled, and resist holding a charge afterwards.

Most likely failure is a bad battery.

The rapid clicking noise you're hearing is the starter soleniod engaging the starter pinion, but not having enough power to keep it engaged.

Reds2kracer

When you have your S running whether it's from a jump or not, at this point step on the brake for a minute or two. If the car starts to shake and the rpm drops and then actually stalls out then it's the alternator or battery but if not then it's something else. Have it check out either way, let us know what you come out with.

Elistan

Based on my experience of my battery dying, you simply have all the classic symptoms of a dead battery. You're right, it going that quickly does seem a bit unusual - but not so much as to suggest the issue lying somewhere else.

The clicking noise, from what I understand, is simply a relay. Nothing to do with the starter motor.

Like others have said, my advice is to take it to a battery place and checked out, and most likely replaced.

Tedow

Well I jumped the car and left it running for about 30 minutes while I Shin-Etsu'd the seals around the windshield, then drove to a local parts place. Along the way, the stereo would cut in and out randomly. Still showed "on", but no sound. When the parts guy checked the battery, it showed 0% charge. None. They did not have anything to check the alternator, but since the car was running with a completely dead battery, I presume it's functional. So, a new battery went in, the car started, and the stereo works as normal.

I'm still a bit concerned by the battery's complete inability to hold any charge whatsoever. Maybe there is a short somewhere that's drawing current all the time? Anyway, we'll see if the new battery lives long or not...if there's a "leak" somewhere, presumably the battery will be dead very shortly. If not, I guess the old battery got damaged or was defective or something, and all of a sudden crapped out. *shrug* Time will tell.

ol' dood

Dude, with a simple electrical tester you can do a quick check. What we are looking for here is a quick test of the alternator output of about 13.6vs. Yes, the automotive battery output is rated at 12 volts, but that is not the reality. To do an accurate test, disconnect the battery and test across the terminals. It should read about 11.8 volts to 12.2. You can do a more accurate test from here. Test the battery output compared to the alternater output and you can determine the problem. It's really easy to determine the source of the problem. Connect the the tester and rev the engine to do the test comparisons.

twelv

Same thing happen to me all I did was changed the battery out and that fixed it.

chipperman

I use a lot of batteries in my equipment. Because of vibration issues, Optima became the one of choice. However, the yellow tops all did the same thing. I am not really sure if they are any different than the red top, or just cost more, but every one I used developed a bad cell, which gives exactly the symptoms you have described. Original red tops are going strong. On the other vehicles, I just went back to conventional wet cells and keep them on the battery tender when not using the equipment. Works just as well for a lot less.
A deep cycle battery is not really designed for the amp draw of a starter motor under load, such as in automotive use, so I wonder why you used that model.