Subframe bolts seized!
05-12-2010, 03:28 PM
#11
Registered User
Originally Posted by Artisan7471,May 12 2010, 02:47 PM
...Looks Like im going to just cut the heads off and thread the bottom of the bolt. I just ordered a m14 tap to do this.
05-12-2010, 03:51 PM
#12
Moderator
I would strongly advise against your repair method.
The reason the bolts locked up is because there is a few inches of exposed bolt thread above the bolt hole that has corroded.
Find a way to spray the hidden portion of the bolt with penetrating oil. Let it soak an hour or so, then tighten the bolt back up.
Once it breaks loose, you can work it back and forth in one spot to free it up.
For the record, NEVER continue to loosen a bolt that is becoming tight. Simply tighten it back up, spray it, and try again. It will come out a little further every time.
I've seen this over a dozen times. Never had to come to cutting, drilling, or tapping.
The reason the bolts locked up is because there is a few inches of exposed bolt thread above the bolt hole that has corroded.
Find a way to spray the hidden portion of the bolt with penetrating oil. Let it soak an hour or so, then tighten the bolt back up.
Once it breaks loose, you can work it back and forth in one spot to free it up.
For the record, NEVER continue to loosen a bolt that is becoming tight. Simply tighten it back up, spray it, and try again. It will come out a little further every time.
I've seen this over a dozen times. Never had to come to cutting, drilling, or tapping.
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05-12-2010, 06:35 PM
#14
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Originally Posted by Billman250,May 12 2010, 07:52 PM
14mm is the bolt thread size. Not the wrench size used to turn it.
for the record, do you know offhand what the head sizes are for the subframe bolts? just 17s and 19s?
05-12-2010, 07:49 PM
#15
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Originally Posted by Billman250,May 12 2010, 03:51 PM
I would strongly advise against your repair method.
The reason the bolts locked up is because there is a few inches of exposed bolt thread above the bolt hole that has corroded.
Find a way to spray the hidden portion of the bolt with penetrating oil. Let it soak an hour or so, then tighten the bolt back up.
Once it breaks loose, you can work it back and forth in one spot to free it up.
For the record, NEVER continue to loosen a bolt that is becoming tight. Simply tighten it back up, spray it, and try again. It will come out a little further every time.
I've seen this over a dozen times. Never had to come to cutting, drilling, or tapping.
The reason the bolts locked up is because there is a few inches of exposed bolt thread above the bolt hole that has corroded.
Find a way to spray the hidden portion of the bolt with penetrating oil. Let it soak an hour or so, then tighten the bolt back up.
Once it breaks loose, you can work it back and forth in one spot to free it up.
For the record, NEVER continue to loosen a bolt that is becoming tight. Simply tighten it back up, spray it, and try again. It will come out a little further every time.
I've seen this over a dozen times. Never had to come to cutting, drilling, or tapping.
05-13-2010, 06:36 AM
#17
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Artisan7471 Posted on May 13 2010, 04:49 AM
There it is!
With the subframe lowered 1/2 an inch - as you mentioned - I guess you can get a flex spray tube between the subframe and chassis to reach it.
The stuff works its way up into the nut - partly.
Patience is a virtue.
The problem with this is that im mot exactly sure where the hidden bolt portion is .
There it is!
With the subframe lowered 1/2 an inch - as you mentioned - I guess you can get a flex spray tube between the subframe and chassis to reach it.
The stuff works its way up into the nut - partly.
Patience is a virtue.
05-13-2010, 06:41 AM
#18
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Originally Posted by Artisan7471,May 12 2010, 03:49 PM
Im not sure what you are talking about, You obviously never read the service manual clutch change procedure
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showt...dpost&p=1036057
Hey look 4 17mm bolts on the subframe and 2 19mm.
Ive never heard anyone reference a bolt by its thread diameter.
Thanks for being a smart ass to those trying to help you.
05-13-2010, 06:53 AM
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Gigdy Posted on May 13 2010, 03:41 PM
In engineering / mechanics that's all you do.
To me, an 8mm bolt - or M8 - has 8mm threads.
The wrench size depends.
DIN norm for hex head is 13mm, but in automotive its usually 12mm.
Then you have Allen-key (6mm) and all the other head shapes.
Ive never heard anyone reference a bolt by its thread diameter.
To me, an 8mm bolt - or M8 - has 8mm threads.
The wrench size depends.
DIN norm for hex head is 13mm, but in automotive its usually 12mm.
Then you have Allen-key (6mm) and all the other head shapes.
05-13-2010, 11:25 AM
#20
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Originally Posted by SpitfireS,May 13 2010, 10:53 AM
Gigdy Posted on May 13 2010, 03:41 PM
In engineering / mechanics that's all you do.
To me, an 8mm bolt - or M8 - has 8mm threads.
The wrench size depends.
DIN norm for hex head is 13mm, but in automotive its usually 12mm.
Then you have Allen-key (6mm) and all the other head shapes.
In engineering / mechanics that's all you do.
To me, an 8mm bolt - or M8 - has 8mm threads.
The wrench size depends.
DIN norm for hex head is 13mm, but in automotive its usually 12mm.
Then you have Allen-key (6mm) and all the other head shapes.
