The stupid spark plug cover...
#31
I'd replace them with some zinc plated bolts. I didn't measure the length but they looked like they're about 25mm (M6). And as has been mentioned before, it's not the initial torque with which they were installed that causes the problem, it's galvanic corrosion. We manufacture machinery where I work that's made with a majority of aluminum parts and most of the time we just run the fasteners right into the tapped aluminum. We switched from non-plated grade 8 bolts (like in the spark plug cover on the S2000) to zinc plated a couple of years ago to help reduce the seizing that is a result of the corrosion.
#33
Registered User
Originally posted by Utah S2K
When you cool a steel bolt off it gets smaller .....if the same bolt were aluminum and cooled equally it would shrink a little more then twice as much. The tapped hole would also reduce...if cooled regardless of material. No metals get bigger when cooled.
When you cool a steel bolt off it gets smaller .....if the same bolt were aluminum and cooled equally it would shrink a little more then twice as much. The tapped hole would also reduce...if cooled regardless of material. No metals get bigger when cooled.
Have you ever seen the ball and ring experiment in most physics classes? where the result of heating the two has the opposite result as most would think, the heated ring actually contracted its hole to a point where the ball would not fit because it expanded also.
#34
Former Sponsor
I had the same problem. I used a super high quality hex wrench and put a small tube over the end to get more leverage. The amount of torque needed to loosen the suckers is a bit scary.
#35
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Hey gang!!
New guy on the block here...
Just a few thoughts for you... Ran into this when helping a friend of mine work on Goldwings...
Ever notice how much more difficult it is to get the oil filter off when changing the oil??
Versus how tight you put it on in the first place?
According the my friend (mechanic), he mentioned to me that the extra tight on the filters was from heating/cooling many times over. Tends to tighten the puppy on the threads a bit. Sounds to me like the same problem with the spark plug cover...
I have removed these bolts too... wasn't easy. I have worked on Honda bikes (mostly my own bike) and any parts that do not get heated by the engine (e.g. - allen bolts on the handle bars)
don't have this problem. Most do not come loose with a 'snap'. They just come loose when given a bit of muscle. A good idea on these posts was to give the bolts a good smack with a center punch, or SMALL screwdriver with a mallet. That will usually do the trick... nothing like getting those threads unbound...
Anyway, on the tool front.. if you do not want to spend lots of money on SnapOn (expensive) I have been happy with my Husky hex socket set. Solid, and the bit does not come out like the Craftsman sockets....
Have fun all!!!!
New guy on the block here...
Just a few thoughts for you... Ran into this when helping a friend of mine work on Goldwings...
Ever notice how much more difficult it is to get the oil filter off when changing the oil??
Versus how tight you put it on in the first place?
According the my friend (mechanic), he mentioned to me that the extra tight on the filters was from heating/cooling many times over. Tends to tighten the puppy on the threads a bit. Sounds to me like the same problem with the spark plug cover...
I have removed these bolts too... wasn't easy. I have worked on Honda bikes (mostly my own bike) and any parts that do not get heated by the engine (e.g. - allen bolts on the handle bars)
don't have this problem. Most do not come loose with a 'snap'. They just come loose when given a bit of muscle. A good idea on these posts was to give the bolts a good smack with a center punch, or SMALL screwdriver with a mallet. That will usually do the trick... nothing like getting those threads unbound...
Anyway, on the tool front.. if you do not want to spend lots of money on SnapOn (expensive) I have been happy with my Husky hex socket set. Solid, and the bit does not come out like the Craftsman sockets....
Have fun all!!!!
#36
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oh, and if you don't mind being a bit more careful.. some grease on those cover bolts will work wonders!!!! (don't forget to get those bolts in at least snug...)
#38
Originally posted by cmnsnse
You are correct that no metal gets bigger BUT a HOLE in metal gets bigger - the surrounding metal gets smaller and that actually makes the hole bigger.
Have you ever seen the ball and ring experiment in most physics classes? where the result of heating the two has the opposite result as most would think, the heated ring actually contracted its hole to a point where the ball would not fit because it expanded also.
You are correct that no metal gets bigger BUT a HOLE in metal gets bigger - the surrounding metal gets smaller and that actually makes the hole bigger.
Have you ever seen the ball and ring experiment in most physics classes? where the result of heating the two has the opposite result as most would think, the heated ring actually contracted its hole to a point where the ball would not fit because it expanded also.
You are correct in that the block would act volumetrically as opposed to linearly (Delta "V" vs "Delta "L"). Upon reflection and CMMNs input the engine must be "COLD" for the least resistance of the bolt. The physics is a little deep but CMMN is right and I stand corrected in this case.
Advanced Note: In volumetric expansion the final volume is the amount of change in volume added or subtracted according to weather the temperature is increased or decreased. In linear expansion the result is directly proportional to the length (L).
Thanks for pointing that out and sorry for any confusion I may have caused!!!!!!
Utah
#39
Registered User
heh, you are much deeper into the metals than I am, but I was hoping I wasn't totally nuts, cus freezing metal parts has worked wonders when nothing else would.
I was asking about Ti because (and its a proprietary Metal Matrix) I was told a few different things about Ti and Al. I'm working on Ti brake rotors, read: 5lbs each front, that's a savings of 10lbs each.
the Ti is for rocket nozzles so its heat resistance and strength are not in question, but its abrasion resistance and compatibility with an aluminum hat are. But I was told there is even a small content of Al in the material I would be using. Unfortunately I don't know how much of what is in it
I was asking about Ti because (and its a proprietary Metal Matrix) I was told a few different things about Ti and Al. I'm working on Ti brake rotors, read: 5lbs each front, that's a savings of 10lbs each.
the Ti is for rocket nozzles so its heat resistance and strength are not in question, but its abrasion resistance and compatibility with an aluminum hat are. But I was told there is even a small content of Al in the material I would be using. Unfortunately I don't know how much of what is in it
#40
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guys i experience the same thing too damn hex keys, plus my hands are all hurt, it feels like you are trying to get a girl with 10 dollars in your bank account, you feel like you can do it outsmart it but it the end you break it...
now i learn my lesson. surrender,... now my question is how am i gonna open it? i just got my cf spark plug cover and its just sitting there u guys know how it feels,....
i rounded one of the bolts,... if i bring it to a shop are they going to break it??? anyone knows a good shop around lake forest ca 92630 that do a clean job coz i dont want any scratch on my oem spark plug cover...........
HEEEELLLLLPPPP
now i learn my lesson. surrender,... now my question is how am i gonna open it? i just got my cf spark plug cover and its just sitting there u guys know how it feels,....
i rounded one of the bolts,... if i bring it to a shop are they going to break it??? anyone knows a good shop around lake forest ca 92630 that do a clean job coz i dont want any scratch on my oem spark plug cover...........
HEEEELLLLLPPPP