The stupid spark plug cover...
10-01-2001, 06:37 PM
#21
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Originally posted by Utah S2K
Physics 101 as explained by Utah:
The block is aluminum and the bolt is steel. The bolt either screws directly in or has an insert (helicoil) in the block.
Physics 101 as explained by Utah:
The block is aluminum and the bolt is steel. The bolt either screws directly in or has an insert (helicoil) in the block.
You're thinking airplanes, my good man.
10-01-2001, 06:38 PM
#22
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Regardless of the particular metals, will subjecting them to colder temperatures not change their size in this way: The bolt gets smaller and the tapped hole gets bigger?
BTW does Ti react with Al?
BTW does Ti react with Al?
10-01-2001, 07:13 PM
#23
Originally posted by cmnsnse
Regardless of the particular metals, will subjecting them to colder temperatures not change their size in this way: The bolt gets smaller and the tapped hole gets bigger?
BTW does Ti react with Al?
Regardless of the particular metals, will subjecting them to colder temperatures not change their size in this way: The bolt gets smaller and the tapped hole gets bigger?
BTW does Ti react with Al?
As for Ti and Aluminum you are probably OK but I'd have to check a book at work.....In the Steel/ Aluminum combo the aluminum will borrow electrons from the iron (Fe++) in the steel which causes the "Galvanic Corrosion".
10-01-2001, 11:03 PM
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Originally posted by chroot
I think the best solution is definitely to throw the hex keys out the window, trying to hit as many squirrels as possible on the way down, then going to Sears to buy some real tools.
I think the best solution is definitely to throw the hex keys out the window, trying to hit as many squirrels as possible on the way down, then going to Sears to buy some real tools.
If you're going to buy rarely used tools, then Craftsman will do just fine. But for commonly used items like socket sets, wrenches, and screwdrivers, invest in some quality Snap-Op tools or some Facoms. They're certainly more expensive, but these tools will literally last you a lifetime. Rumor has it that Snap-On tools can typically had at a ~10% discount if you pay in cash. They're a franchise, and the truck IS the dealer, so get to know your local guy and cut some deals. If anybody knows a Snap-On dealer, maybe we can arrange some group buys.If you buy them on eBay, you can find some good deals. Used tools are a great way to build a collection of the tools you need without investing too much money.
10-02-2001, 04:25 AM
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Originally posted by chazzy
Since when are Craftsman tools considered to be "real" tools? If you're going to buy rarely used tools, then Craftsman will do just fine. But for commonly used items like socket sets, wrenches, and screwdrivers, invest in some quality Snap-Op tools or some Facoms. They're certainly more expensive, but these tools will literally last you a lifetime. Rumor has it that Snap-On tools can typically had at a ~10% discount if you pay in cash. They're a franchise, and the truck IS the dealer, so get to know your local guy and cut some deals. If anybody knows a Snap-On dealer, maybe we can arrange some group buys.
If you buy them on eBay, you can find some good deals. Used tools are a great way to build a collection of the tools you need without investing too much money.
Since when are Craftsman tools considered to be "real" tools?
If you're going to buy rarely used tools, then Craftsman will do just fine. But for commonly used items like socket sets, wrenches, and screwdrivers, invest in some quality Snap-Op tools or some Facoms. They're certainly more expensive, but these tools will literally last you a lifetime. Rumor has it that Snap-On tools can typically had at a ~10% discount if you pay in cash. They're a franchise, and the truck IS the dealer, so get to know your local guy and cut some deals. If anybody knows a Snap-On dealer, maybe we can arrange some group buys.If you buy them on eBay, you can find some good deals. Used tools are a great way to build a collection of the tools you need without investing too much money.
The main disadvantage is that the cost is out of proportion to the quality. They do break and they do wear out with constant use. Any upper grade of tool (Craftsman, Mac, Proto, Snap-On) will be fine to use in a home shop. Most midgrades will work fine too. "Bargain" and no-name tools are never a bargain.
10-02-2001, 05:37 AM
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Originally posted by chazzy
But for commonly used items like socket sets, wrenches, and screwdrivers, invest in some quality Snap-Op tools or some Facoms. They're certainly more expensive, but these tools will literally last you a lifetime
But for commonly used items like socket sets, wrenches, and screwdrivers, invest in some quality Snap-Op tools or some Facoms. They're certainly more expensive, but these tools will literally last you a lifetime
10-02-2001, 08:29 AM
#27
My error, electrolysis...what was I thinking..just sold my ocean going boat after 16 years. If your engine was stored in water it would probably be electrolysis..a form of galvanic corrosion.
10-02-2001, 08:48 AM
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You guys are some loony people.
I should go buy a new set of Snap-On tools so I can torque my little spark plugs down once in a blue moon.... hmmm...
Craftsman is "upper eschelon" in my opinion, and they've always been very good for me. I was using some no-name hex keys attached to a little metal keeper, and they sucked ASS. Well, they would have been fine if the bolts had been tightened to only the spec'd 11.7 ft-lbf. However, they were an order of magnitude or three out of spec, so my cheesy keys just wouldn't cut it. Like it has been said, hex key bolts are not the ideal bolt for high-torque applications, so I can't imagine Honda meant for this to happen.
BTW, I still haven't done anything about my poor bolt, but I think it's definitely time to replace them all with some normal aluminum hex bolts once I get the bugger out. Thanks for all the suggestions...
- Warren
I should go buy a new set of Snap-On tools so I can torque my little spark plugs down once in a blue moon.... hmmm...
Craftsman is "upper eschelon" in my opinion, and they've always been very good for me. I was using some no-name hex keys attached to a little metal keeper, and they sucked ASS. Well, they would have been fine if the bolts had been tightened to only the spec'd 11.7 ft-lbf. However, they were an order of magnitude or three out of spec, so my cheesy keys just wouldn't cut it. Like it has been said, hex key bolts are not the ideal bolt for high-torque applications, so I can't imagine Honda meant for this to happen.BTW, I still haven't done anything about my poor bolt, but I think it's definitely time to replace them all with some normal aluminum hex bolts once I get the bugger out. Thanks for all the suggestions...
- Warren
10-02-2001, 10:19 AM
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Originally posted by jschmidt
Came out fine with my quality T-handle wrench. They were much too tight and I did shock the bolts with the wrench. A little anti-sneeze for next time and good to go. BTW, the plugs were fine.
JRM-- Your anal retentive approach is catching. You'd have loved to see me out there with my Sharpie, painting the hex heads.
Came out fine with my quality T-handle wrench. They were much too tight and I did shock the bolts with the wrench. A little anti-sneeze for next time and good to go. BTW, the plugs were fine.
JRM-- Your anal retentive approach is catching. You'd have loved to see me out there with my Sharpie, painting the hex heads.
Anyway, you know you want to do it, so come on give us a little pic!!hahahahahahah