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STUCK CASTLE NUT SPINS BALL JOINT!

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Old 12-29-2014, 07:15 AM
  #21  

 
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Everyone's a mechanic around here.

Why has the OP just not jacked up the arm to wedge the BJ back into the control arm? There's has to come a time when you're eventually going to have to listen to the correct advice.
Old 12-29-2014, 07:18 AM
  #22  

 
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Originally Posted by windhund116
If you are going to do this, I'd back the castle nut to the end of the ball joint. That way you whack onto the nut and keep the ball joint end from mushrooming. Making it harder to remove.
DO NOT hit the threads of a BJ, tie rod or axle stub with a hammer, EVER, regardless if there's a nut on the end to prevent mushrooming of the tip. That's just being a butcher, plain and simple.

You hit the control arm it's going into, or get an appropriate separator to split it for you.
Old 12-29-2014, 07:24 AM
  #23  

 
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Originally Posted by fernando.
Originally Posted by windhund116' timestamp='1419834619' post='23449866
If you are going to do this, I'd back the castle nut to the end of the ball joint. That way you whack onto the nut and keep the ball joint end from mushrooming. Making it harder to remove.
DO NOT hit the threads of a BJ, tie rod or axle stub with a hammer, EVER, regardless if there's a nut on the end to prevent mushrooming of the tip. That's just being a butcher, plain and simple.

You hit the control arm it's going into, or get an appropriate separator to split it for you.


Was wondering if he was going to correct his own post...not sure why anyone would hit the actual ball joint He actually posts incorrect things quite a bit.
Old 12-29-2014, 08:52 AM
  #24  

 
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I thought it was assumed by now that if you're gonna bash something with a hammer it's the slot on the knuckle that the ball joint fits into and not the thread or ball joint itself. That's just being mean to the car.
Old 12-29-2014, 10:34 AM
  #25  

 
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Originally Posted by arsenal
Originally Posted by bgoetz
Needlessly hitting stuff that could be the difference between a perfect apex and the wall seems like a horrible idea. I bought the ball joint separator at harbor freight for $16 and it has worked flawlessly.
Lol how so? This method has been used for years! Probably more often than the separator
Well you keep hitting crap with your hammer, I will use the separator, which has worked flawlessly.
Old 12-29-2014, 11:01 AM
  #26  

 
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Originally Posted by bgoetz
Originally Posted by arsenal' timestamp='1419867274' post='23450084
Originally Posted by bgoetz
Needlessly hitting stuff that could be the difference between a perfect apex and the wall seems like a horrible idea. I bought the ball joint separator at harbor freight for $16 and it has worked flawlessly.
Lol how so? This method has been used for years! Probably more often than the separator
Well you keep hitting crap with your hammer, I will use the separator, which has worked flawlessly.
No, please explain why hitting a LCA to dislodge a ball joint could 'cause one to miss an apex and hit a wall.'

It's not hitting crap, it's hitting a specific point to induce a release.

I am seriously surprised you have 1800 posts and think using a hammer is bad and will cause one to miss an apex
Old 12-29-2014, 11:22 AM
  #27  
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Our control arms arent the beefiest thing in the world. Any external localized force can lead to a potential stress point and cause a microfracture. I'd rather side on using proper tools considering theyre cheap and make the job easier.

In the very recent past were posts in the R&C forum where the knuckle broke right at the lower ball joint mounting points. Not to say they were caused by potential hammering during past repairs, but demonstrates that these components do fail and break.
Old 12-29-2014, 12:29 PM
  #28  

 
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Originally Posted by 99SH
Our control arms arent the beefiest thing in the world. Any external localized force can lead to a potential stress point and cause a microfracture. I'd rather side on using proper tools considering theyre cheap and make the job easier.

In the very recent past were posts in the R&C forum where the knuckle broke right at the lower ball joint mounting points. Not to say they were caused by potential hammering during past repairs, but demonstrates that these components do fail and break.
This. I really didn't feel a need to explain myself, I figured my comment could be interpreted "as is", but here you go. That and I have actually coated my stuff to keep it nice, I would like to keep it that way and use the separator, you keep using your hammer if you would like.

Now, I am not here to debate the merits of my opinion, quite honestly nothing you or anyone else can say would cause me to hit stuff on my car with a hammer, when I don't need to. Most certainly when the failure of that stuff could = really bad things.
Old 12-29-2014, 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by bgoetz
Originally Posted by 99SH' timestamp='1419884526' post='23450397
Our control arms arent the beefiest thing in the world. Any external localized force can lead to a potential stress point and cause a microfracture. I'd rather side on using proper tools considering theyre cheap and make the job easier.

In the very recent past were posts in the R&C forum where the knuckle broke right at the lower ball joint mounting points. Not to say they were caused by potential hammering during past repairs, but demonstrates that these components do fail and break.
This. I really didn't feel a need to explain myself, I figured my comment could be interpreted "as is", but here you go. That and I have actually coated my stuff to keep it nice, I would like to keep it that way and use the separator, you keep using your hammer if you would like.

Now, I am not here to debate the merits of my opinion, quite honestly nothing you or anyone else can say would cause me to hit stuff on my car with a hammer, when I don't need to. Most certainly when the failure of that stuff could = really bad things.
Old 12-29-2014, 06:39 PM
  #30  
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I think hammer or sledge will work in situations where parts are really stuck together. Try to support whatever you are hitting to avoid tweaking parts you are going to re-use. Back the nut off to protect threaded portion or end of what you are hitting --- if possible. Use heat and/or lubricants. Aim straight!
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