STUCK CASTLE NUT SPINS BALL JOINT!
#21
Everyone's a mechanic around here.
Why has the OP just not jacked up the arm to wedge the BJ back into the control arm? There's has to come a time when you're eventually going to have to listen to the correct advice.
Why has the OP just not jacked up the arm to wedge the BJ back into the control arm? There's has to come a time when you're eventually going to have to listen to the correct advice.
#22
You hit the control arm it's going into, or get an appropriate separator to split it for you.
#23
Originally Posted by windhund116' timestamp='1419834619' post='23449866
If you are going to do this, I'd back the castle nut to the end of the ball joint. That way you whack onto the nut and keep the ball joint end from mushrooming. Making it harder to remove.
You hit the control arm it's going into, or get an appropriate separator to split it for you.
Was wondering if he was going to correct his own post...not sure why anyone would hit the actual ball joint He actually posts incorrect things quite a bit.
#24
I thought it was assumed by now that if you're gonna bash something with a hammer it's the slot on the knuckle that the ball joint fits into and not the thread or ball joint itself. That's just being mean to the car.
#25
Originally Posted by bgoetz
Needlessly hitting stuff that could be the difference between a perfect apex and the wall seems like a horrible idea. I bought the ball joint separator at harbor freight for $16 and it has worked flawlessly.
#26
Originally Posted by arsenal' timestamp='1419867274' post='23450084
Originally Posted by bgoetz
Needlessly hitting stuff that could be the difference between a perfect apex and the wall seems like a horrible idea. I bought the ball joint separator at harbor freight for $16 and it has worked flawlessly.
It's not hitting crap, it's hitting a specific point to induce a release.
I am seriously surprised you have 1800 posts and think using a hammer is bad and will cause one to miss an apex
#27
Our control arms arent the beefiest thing in the world. Any external localized force can lead to a potential stress point and cause a microfracture. I'd rather side on using proper tools considering theyre cheap and make the job easier.
In the very recent past were posts in the R&C forum where the knuckle broke right at the lower ball joint mounting points. Not to say they were caused by potential hammering during past repairs, but demonstrates that these components do fail and break.
In the very recent past were posts in the R&C forum where the knuckle broke right at the lower ball joint mounting points. Not to say they were caused by potential hammering during past repairs, but demonstrates that these components do fail and break.
#28
Our control arms arent the beefiest thing in the world. Any external localized force can lead to a potential stress point and cause a microfracture. I'd rather side on using proper tools considering theyre cheap and make the job easier.
In the very recent past were posts in the R&C forum where the knuckle broke right at the lower ball joint mounting points. Not to say they were caused by potential hammering during past repairs, but demonstrates that these components do fail and break.
In the very recent past were posts in the R&C forum where the knuckle broke right at the lower ball joint mounting points. Not to say they were caused by potential hammering during past repairs, but demonstrates that these components do fail and break.
Now, I am not here to debate the merits of my opinion, quite honestly nothing you or anyone else can say would cause me to hit stuff on my car with a hammer, when I don't need to. Most certainly when the failure of that stuff could = really bad things.
#29
Originally Posted by 99SH' timestamp='1419884526' post='23450397
Our control arms arent the beefiest thing in the world. Any external localized force can lead to a potential stress point and cause a microfracture. I'd rather side on using proper tools considering theyre cheap and make the job easier.
In the very recent past were posts in the R&C forum where the knuckle broke right at the lower ball joint mounting points. Not to say they were caused by potential hammering during past repairs, but demonstrates that these components do fail and break.
In the very recent past were posts in the R&C forum where the knuckle broke right at the lower ball joint mounting points. Not to say they were caused by potential hammering during past repairs, but demonstrates that these components do fail and break.
Now, I am not here to debate the merits of my opinion, quite honestly nothing you or anyone else can say would cause me to hit stuff on my car with a hammer, when I don't need to. Most certainly when the failure of that stuff could = really bad things.
#30
I think hammer or sledge will work in situations where parts are really stuck together. Try to support whatever you are hitting to avoid tweaking parts you are going to re-use. Back the nut off to protect threaded portion or end of what you are hitting --- if possible. Use heat and/or lubricants. Aim straight!
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11-17-2012 02:50 AM