STUCK CASTLE NUT SPINS BALL JOINT!
12-25-2014, 08:26 PM
#12
put the wrench on the nut
spray the nut and wrench with break-free
whack the wrench in the off direction with a sledge
that should get it off...all else fails, air grind the side of the nut then split it with a chisel
spray the nut and wrench with break-free
whack the wrench in the off direction with a sledge
that should get it off...all else fails, air grind the side of the nut then split it with a chisel
12-25-2014, 09:10 PM
#13
If none of the above works, another option, tighten nut to pull the ball joint stud back up into the spindle, to jam it in place. That should hold the stud from turning. Remove nut completely. Use ball joint separator again.
12-25-2014, 10:49 PM
#14
Registered User
To get it off use a c-lamp to apply pressure. I have managed to find a spot where a c-clamp did the trick on every ball joint on this car, without the use of an elaborate setup, it just takes patience. On note is to be careful popping the joints and not to crush the ends of the threads
try jacking the arm not the knuckle.
On your video, it seems like you already popped the ball joint, right?
12-28-2014, 04:47 PM
#15
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In the future, just smack the side of the LCA with a mini sledge hammer. The vibration/impact will break the seal while avoiding any damage to ball joint.
or
I'd try to get some mini vice grips between there to hold it in place or use a breaker bar to torque the hub so it creates tension on the ball joint.
If that neither of those work, smack the wrench with a mini sledge hammer. You'd be surprised how much force you can create byy doing this. I've removed crank pulley bolts this way
or
I'd try to get some mini vice grips between there to hold it in place or use a breaker bar to torque the hub so it creates tension on the ball joint.
If that neither of those work, smack the wrench with a mini sledge hammer. You'd be surprised how much force you can create byy doing this. I've removed crank pulley bolts this way
12-28-2014, 06:12 PM
#16
Originally Posted by PdxPartsCompany
In the future, just smack the side of the LCA with a mini sledge hammer. The vibration/impact will break the seal while avoiding any damage to ball joint. or I'd try to get some mini vice grips between there to hold it in place or use a breaker bar to torque the hub so it creates tension on the ball joint. If that neither of those work, smack the wrench with a mini sledge hammer. You'd be surprised how much force you can create byy doing this. I've removed crank pulley bolts this way
12-28-2014, 07:35 PM
#17
Needlessly hitting stuff that could be the difference between a perfect apex and the wall seems like a horrible idea. I bought the ball joint separator at harbor freight for $16 and it has worked flawlessly.
12-28-2014, 09:30 PM
#18
" Good wack with a hammer always works for me! "
If you are going to do this, I'd back the castle nut to the end of the ball joint. That way you whack onto the nut and keep the ball joint end from mushrooming. Making it harder to remove.
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If you are going to do this, I'd back the castle nut to the end of the ball joint. That way you whack onto the nut and keep the ball joint end from mushrooming. Making it harder to remove.
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12-29-2014, 06:34 AM
#19
Originally Posted by bgoetz
Needlessly hitting stuff that could be the difference between a perfect apex and the wall seems like a horrible idea. I bought the ball joint separator at harbor freight for $16 and it has worked flawlessly.
12-29-2014, 07:05 AM
#20
Ahhh the flat rate way. Look I'm not saying it doesn't work, but what if you come across the stubborn ball joint that doesn't want to come off, even after dousing it in pb blaster for half an hour and letting it soak? You keep hitting it, and hitting it, and then you start to get tired, and then your hammer slips and you nick a tiny gouge into the boot. Now you can risk that, and most of the time you'll get lucky and wont have to deal with that, sure. But that one time, you could have just used a ball joint separator, and been done with it. Eventually you hammer it off but now you've nicked a tiny tear in your boot, and will eventually have to get it replaced, which ends up being more work, and all because you wanted to be lazy(speaking from experience, please learn from my mistakes as I have). I think a good compromise is to use the hammer first, and see if they dislodge easily, if you have to bash on it more than 3-4 times then just use the separator. That way you minimize the chance of damage and still work efficiently.