Stripped out oil pan threads
#21
Yes. Off your heli coil is holding and allows for a little torque then sounds like you need a new washer. I've used the felt ones with success. Aluminum ones crush and seal well to.
#22
Just did my first oil change on my S2000. I am the 4th owner. No leaks before the oil change. Then after I drained the old oil, and tried to put the drain bolt back, it wouldn't tighten. Pulled the drain plug back out and there were metal shavings on half of the plug. The threads closer to the outside has been stripped....just like the original poster of this thread....
WTF!!
fortunately i think i still have a few threads left, but I'll need to find a longer bolt at the hardware store.
WTF!!
fortunately i think i still have a few threads left, but I'll need to find a longer bolt at the hardware store.
#23
If the threads were truely fine before you started, the only explanation I can think of is you crossthreaded it on reinstall, and as you tightened it it just stripped more and more.
Hardware store is not going to have any metric bolt, of the diameter needed, and if they do it ain't gonna be the right thread.
Sent from my SM-G920P using IB AutoGroup
Hardware store is not going to have any metric bolt, of the diameter needed, and if they do it ain't gonna be the right thread.
Sent from my SM-G920P using IB AutoGroup
#24
how do you cross thread...when I hand tightened it only to go at it with a rachet to not be able to tighten it at all?
and I found my extended bolt at the hardware store that did fit the oil drain hole. I put a new OEM washer and it is now torqued down to 33 ft lb.
I also used the Vacuum Cleaner method on the engine, so I didn't lose a drop of my precious Amsoil Signature Series oil.
and I found my extended bolt at the hardware store that did fit the oil drain hole. I put a new OEM washer and it is now torqued down to 33 ft lb.
I also used the Vacuum Cleaner method on the engine, so I didn't lose a drop of my precious Amsoil Signature Series oil.
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