Stripped Clutch Slave Cylinder Bolt(s)
#1
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Stripped Clutch Slave Cylinder Bolt(s)
My 01’ S2000 has been sitting for over six years with 199,079 Miles on the clock and thankfully I now have the time & means to go through and fix/restore everything.
During this adventure, I discovered the shop that did my clutch job last must have stripped one of the bolts that hold my slave cylinder on.... totally out for sure (no bolt was in there at all when I first looked over it either) - and the other bolt closest to the engine was really loose and not even the correct looking Honda OEM bolt.
My question is, how should I go about safely correcting this? This really concerns me.
SEE IMAGE ATTACHED:
RED CIRCLE: Totally stripped threads behind slave cylinder shown above on transmission
YELLOW CIRCLE: Doesn’t seem to be stripped... but has non-matching screw compared to original OEM (did not want to touch and potentially make it worse)
—
Also, I observed that the protective rubber boot which shields the clutch fork from the outside was totally gone, could this screw anything up inside or just replace the rubber piece and don't look back?
Your input is much appreciated.
Thanks,
Scott H.
During this adventure, I discovered the shop that did my clutch job last must have stripped one of the bolts that hold my slave cylinder on.... totally out for sure (no bolt was in there at all when I first looked over it either) - and the other bolt closest to the engine was really loose and not even the correct looking Honda OEM bolt.
My question is, how should I go about safely correcting this? This really concerns me.
SEE IMAGE ATTACHED:
RED CIRCLE: Totally stripped threads behind slave cylinder shown above on transmission
YELLOW CIRCLE: Doesn’t seem to be stripped... but has non-matching screw compared to original OEM (did not want to touch and potentially make it worse)
—
Also, I observed that the protective rubber boot which shields the clutch fork from the outside was totally gone, could this screw anything up inside or just replace the rubber piece and don't look back?
Your input is much appreciated.
Thanks,
Scott H.
Last edited by Scott W Howard; 11-18-2020 at 06:56 AM. Reason: description clarification
#2
Looks like you need a Helicoil kit. I like to use oil when tapping the hole. 3-In-One works fine.
Last edited by windhund116; 11-17-2020 at 10:20 PM.
The following users liked this post:
Scott W Howard (11-19-2020)
#3
Car has been in storage the past 6 years?
As Windhund116 notes you're probably going to have to Helicoil threads in the gearbox -- no threads in the circled holes. Depth of the holes and length of the bolts is critical as the gearbox case is aluminum. Note the OEM torque is only 16 lbf-ft (sixteen pound feet).
-- Chuck
As Windhund116 notes you're probably going to have to Helicoil threads in the gearbox -- no threads in the circled holes. Depth of the holes and length of the bolts is critical as the gearbox case is aluminum. Note the OEM torque is only 16 lbf-ft (sixteen pound feet).
-- Chuck
#4
Agree on the helicoil. But before you go there, sometimes youn can save buggered threads using thread repair tool. It more of a specialized bolt than a tap. Its like a hardened bolt, with grooves along its flanks. It kinda mushes the threads back to where they belong.
If the threads are totally stripped out there is nothing left to save. But if there is anything still there, these things work great.
Here is an example:
Oh, and about the boot, yeah, just get and fit a new one. Probably nothing got in there, and if it did you'd have to drop trans to address it. And if you drop trans, it would be silly not to replace the whole clutch. And its the clutch you'd be worried about anything that got in there. So unless clutch is acting up, not really worth worrying about.
If the threads are totally stripped out there is nothing left to save. But if there is anything still there, these things work great.
Here is an example:
Oh, and about the boot, yeah, just get and fit a new one. Probably nothing got in there, and if it did you'd have to drop trans to address it. And if you drop trans, it would be silly not to replace the whole clutch. And its the clutch you'd be worried about anything that got in there. So unless clutch is acting up, not really worth worrying about.
The following users liked this post:
Scott W Howard (11-19-2020)
#6
I'll chime in to say that while I understand Helicoil is very effective, and is likely a good answer here, I have never personally installed a helicoil and I don't think I would use my S2k transmission housing for my first attempt.
#7
Helicoil isn't difficult. Drilling and tapping are the only hard part, especially with the limited room to get a drill in there. Might have to invest in a right angle adapter for your drill (or buy a right angle drill).
Drilling the hole straight is aided by the existing hole.
Once drilled and tapped, the helicoil itself just spins in easily by hand, using a plastic tool they provide.
The only way to screw this up would be to drill the hole out of round, or to break off drillbit or tap in the hole. That would really, really suck.
The tap is by far the real area this could happen (the drill bit in this case is gonna be thicc, so have to really be careless to break it). But so long as you tap it slow, a little in, a little out, a little further in, then out, and use the correct lube...ok this is starting to sound like advice for a very different type of forum.
Drilling the hole straight is aided by the existing hole.
Once drilled and tapped, the helicoil itself just spins in easily by hand, using a plastic tool they provide.
The only way to screw this up would be to drill the hole out of round, or to break off drillbit or tap in the hole. That would really, really suck.
The tap is by far the real area this could happen (the drill bit in this case is gonna be thicc, so have to really be careless to break it). But so long as you tap it slow, a little in, a little out, a little further in, then out, and use the correct lube...ok this is starting to sound like advice for a very different type of forum.
The following 2 users liked this post by Car Analogy:
Scott W Howard (11-19-2020),
windhund116 (11-19-2020)
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#8
I used a right angle adapter for the drill and it worked brilliantly- i had broken exhaust manifold bolts on my old B16...then a broken drill bit in the hole. For that I used a dremel tool with a carbide bit which destroyed the drill bit and left a perfect hole to use a stud extractor.
go slow, take your time, use plenty of lubricant.
darcy
go slow, take your time, use plenty of lubricant.
darcy
The following 2 users liked this post by darcyw:
Scott W Howard (11-19-2020),
windhund116 (11-19-2020)
The following 2 users liked this post by Mr.Matchbox:
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#10
Ratchet T-handle wrench is kinda nice for keeping your hands perpendicular to the hole you are tapping. Especially, in tight spots.
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