zeroptzero

I don't believe you have to touch the chain or the chain tensioner. Set the engine at TDC for no 1 cylinder, it will help put it back together properly, loosen all rocker arm adjusting screws (16 of them). Remove cam holders and cams. Insert the holder bolts you just removed into the rocker shaft holder before you lift it off then the assembly can be lifted as one unit. Use rubber bands to keep the pieces of the rockers together and put them back in their original position on installation so their wear matches the cam wear. Lubricate the parts on re-assembly, I'd use a bit of break in lube or something similar on the rocker arms and camshaft lobes, and some oil on the cam gears.

Apply engine oil to bolt threads of cam holders, torque them to 16 ft lbs. There is a pattern to follow for the bolts on tightening (20 of them), it is basically starting on the 2 center bolts of the middle holder, moving to the two outside bolts of the midldle holder, them moving to the two center bolts of the 2nrd and 3rd holders , then doing the two outside bolts of the 2nd and 3rd holders, then to the two center bolts of the 4th and 5th holders and finally the two outside bolts of the 4th and 5th holders. I would tighten them in 2 steps leading up to the final torque value. Do a valve adjustment and torque the adjuster nuts to 14 ft lbs.

Ignition coil bolts, ignition cover bolts, and valvecover bolts are all torqued to 8.7 ft lbs, inside out tightening pattern helps. Hopefully your torque wrench isn't out of adjustment, if you think it is be a bit conservative with it or get a new one.

smrtgi

Thanks for the advice, I feel like I can do this one myself.
Now I just have to wait for the parts :/

s2steve

This happened to me when I adjusted my valves last summer. I used a torque wrench, but it must not be very accurate at that low of torque.
You don't mention what year your s2000 is, but the parts for my 2002 were no longer in production. I ordered the 2.2L parts from an AP2, and they worked just fine. I replaced all new tappets and locking nuts just to be safe.

One of my tappets had actually broken, so I needed to remove the cams and cut the bottom off of it to keep the broken part from ruining the threads in the rocker arm. I even had a few tappets which weren't broken, but were stretched enough they did not want to smoothly come out of the rocker arm.

It isn't difficult to remove the cams if you already have the valve cover off. Just be certain to follow the service manual.

Good luck.

zeroptzero

I've stripped a few bolts with torque wrenches in the past, I now have 3 torque wrenches as the ones with very wide ranges tend to go inaccurate towards the low end. I use a smaller wrench for 3-20 ft lbs, I have a medium wrench that I use for 20-75 ft lbs , and a much larger one that I used for 80-250 ft lbs. I haven't broken a bolt since going this route, I absolutely hate breaking bolts , it's the worst feeling when you feel that bitch busting on you. 3 wrenches are expensive but I feel much better about it.

smrtgi

How did you cut it?
The threads are damaged on the very top of the tappet so cutting it off would probably be a good idea. Damaging the rocker arm seems like an easy way to make this a much tougher job.

smrtgi

I am once again mobile, and would like to thank everyone for your help.

s2steve

Glad to hear it. In response to your question above, I used a hack saw, and was very careful. I placed lots of rags around the head to keep out metal shavings to a minimum in the motor, and to keep the pieces from falling into the oil return. I changed the oil and filter after running it for a few minutes just to be sure.