alex19

damn tearing it down I like it! let us know what you find

honda freak

i started to have the same sound am getting confused now anyways i just ordered the Ballade TCT and we will see but i think also i noticed some play in my tensioner pulley, so this will be my next step but i hope nothing else

rob-2

Crap. Sounds like its coming the front of the motor. I have a little tick at 3k, very mild and just figured it was the natiral frequency of something.

BBV S2K

BUMP cuz I have this same thing... maybe something common on the F20c?

Mr.60trim

My mechanic and I suspect this may be the culprit as well to the slight (rattling) sound most people in here are describing. However, I think you have something else going on here based on the vid. I put the stethoscope on both the tensioner pulley and the the front of the the motor and the "rattling" sound def doesn't sound like that.

Subscribed.

pws2k

bump; i have a similar noise..

arabs2k

Same thing happened to me, I had to change my oil pump timing chain and the sparkets. Whenever I turned my car on it would start ticking, basically the oil and not having much pressure to make the timing chain tighter. So the chain is taping the sparkets, every single time. All I am going to say is that it took me $1400 to get my thing fixed including labor.

Thecartutor

Chris2k03, You were right all along. The timing chain has stretched just as you suspected. Here's why and how to confirm it. It is unlikely that it stretched from over revving, possible but, not likely. It's very likely due to some type of oil issue whether it be pressure, quantity or quality. That's even if it's only to say it was revved too high for the oils ability to lube and cool the chain. See, as you probably already know, your oil doesn't just lube your parts and keep them from grinding against each other. It also performs some cooling duties. If, for any reason the oil doesn't perform either of these duties, the chain gets too hot and it stretches. That puts slack in the chain. Once that happens, the best tct in the world can't stop the tapping because the tensioner can't make up for that slack. Doubt me? Here's a very simple and easy way to see if I'm right for yourself. Remove the valve cover. Then line the timing marks at top dead center on cylinder # 1 just like you would to start a valve adjustment. Here's the critical part though. Make sure the timing mark on the crank pulley is perfectly lined up with the mark on the timing cover. You want it dead on the money. Look at it from different angles until you feel it's just right. Don't pay attention to where the upper marks (on the timing gears) are precisely yet. You want them set on cylinder # 1 and not 180 degrees out, but they don't have to be precise right now. For now, only the crank pulley matters and you'll see why in a sec. Side bar: how precise is that timing mark on the pulley and timing cover really? Very precise. When the timing cover is bolted on, the engine block and timing cover have two dowel pins in them to precisely locate the timing cover on the engine so it lines up perfectly with that timing mark on the crank pulley. Now that you have that timing mark on the pulley dead on with the timing cover, it's time to see if that chain is stretched. Ok now, we're going to look at the timing marks on the timing gears more precisely. When you look at them more closely, here's what you should find. You see the two timing marks at approx 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock on the chain sprocket? They're the two lines machined into the sprocket on either side. Both of those should be even with the cylinder head where the valve cover sits, if it were bolted on. Not only that, they should be equidistant from the cylinder head on both sides with the crank pulley and timing cover lined up perfectly. To tell, crouch down so your line of sight is even with the top of the cylinder head or at least as close as you can get it. Compare how far above or below the head each of those lines on the sprocket are. They should be exactly equidistant above the head. Technically, they should be even with it, but from our line of sight they would appear to be above it because we can't crouch down that low. How far above is unimportant, only that they are both the same on each side. Also, the cam gears each have a line of their own machined into them (usually colored with some dull yellow paint). Both of those lines should also be facing each other exactly. If they're not, the mark on your left will likely be the one that's lower and the one on your right will likely be the one that's higher. If the marks are equidistant above the head or even with it, providing you can view it from that angle, no stretchIng has occurred. If they're not, it is stretched. Not only that, but how far off they are (one of the marks below and one above) is an indication of just how far it has stretched. This test is a definitive test as to whether or not your chain is stretched. Also, a stretched chain, with slack in it, will, beyond a shadow of a doubt, make noise. You could later discover you have other noises coming from other sources, but the noise I heard in the video sounds exactly like the stretched chains I have experienced. Plus, a stretched chain needs to be replaced whether it's the source of the noise or not because we both know what'll happen if it breaks. I skipped a lot of explanation because you already know how to do a valve adjustment, but if you or anyone else reading this wants a more detailed explanation, let me know and I'll send it to you. There is good news. The parts to replace the timing chain are remarkably cheap in the grand scheme of things. Better yet, they're not as hard to put in as the Honda service manual suggests. The cylinder head doesn't need to come off. If you have any questions let me know and I'll be happy to answer them.

James