Storing car for winter/maintenance?
12-14-2011, 07:26 AM
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Storing car for winter/maintenance?
Need to put away the car for the winter - already did the full clean/wax job on the exterior. I changed the oils around august and only put about 1,000 miles on them (maybe even less). Does this warrant a change? I won't be driving it till at least april/may. Tires seem fully inflated. I would jack up but my garage doesn't have room for me to jack it from the front and the left side (clearance issue). I've put the top up without latching it. Any thoughts what else should be done?
12-14-2011, 03:12 PM
#3
The issues most common during winter storage are more related to relative humidity than anything else. Wash, wax and a recent oil change is a good place to start.
If you live where it's dry - the main thing I recommend is take a top-notch preservative, like 303 Aerospace treatment (the only one I recommend), and apply to the top, seats, rubber and plastic (I've used 303 since my car was new - and my original top, rubber components and interior look fantastic).
The only other thing I recommend is something you stated you can't do - jack up (but lightly load) the suspension.
I don't recommend simply jacking up the car clear of the ground with the wheels either on or off - which just lets the suspension hang. It's arguably worse to let the suspension hang unloaded than leaving the car on the floor. The optimal compromise is to jack the car and use jack stands only high enough to unload the tires (minimize flat spots), but low enough to ensure the suspension is slightly loaded (not hanging free).
One step further for storage (a must in humid environments) is to "fog" the cylinders by using a quality fogging spray (such as Amsoil's offering) in each cylinder via the spark plug hole, and then rotate the engine by 90 degrees every week or two via the 19mm crank pulley bolt. This is to alternate which valves are open - and consequently which valve springs are compressed.
If you live where it's dry - the main thing I recommend is take a top-notch preservative, like 303 Aerospace treatment (the only one I recommend), and apply to the top, seats, rubber and plastic (I've used 303 since my car was new - and my original top, rubber components and interior look fantastic).
The only other thing I recommend is something you stated you can't do - jack up (but lightly load) the suspension.
I don't recommend simply jacking up the car clear of the ground with the wheels either on or off - which just lets the suspension hang. It's arguably worse to let the suspension hang unloaded than leaving the car on the floor. The optimal compromise is to jack the car and use jack stands only high enough to unload the tires (minimize flat spots), but low enough to ensure the suspension is slightly loaded (not hanging free).
One step further for storage (a must in humid environments) is to "fog" the cylinders by using a quality fogging spray (such as Amsoil's offering) in each cylinder via the spark plug hole, and then rotate the engine by 90 degrees every week or two via the 19mm crank pulley bolt. This is to alternate which valves are open - and consequently which valve springs are compressed.
12-15-2011, 05:43 AM
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Good tip on the 303, i didn't think of that. I live in new york city so it's going to be relatively dry during the winter season. I'm gonna leave the car on the floor i think. The tires need changing by next year so any flat issues I'm not so much concerned about.
I'm gonna go find some spray and get everything sprayed up this weekend then!
I'm gonna go find some spray and get everything sprayed up this weekend then!
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