Stock suspension install
10-07-2006, 12:19 AM
#11
Originally Posted by drifttolga,Oct 6 2006, 11:54 PM
So from the posts i understand that rear suspensions doesnt have left or right difference , but fronts have . And i can see the difference in the fronts by looking at the brake line mounts . Am i right ?
I thought that this car had different preloads at each corner ?
I thought that this car had different preloads at each corner ?
As I said top mount bolts orientation, with the bottom mount nut to the back as well as the reservoirs facing the rear!
That all assumes you didn't split the OEM springs from the OEM dampers
10-08-2006, 03:12 PM
#17
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drifttolga Posted on Oct 9 2006, 12:46 AM
In this case it means that you jack up the suspension to the point where it would be with the wheels of the car on the ground and the weight of the car on it.
A.ka. ride height
(does that make sense?)
Anyway..
Your car was supported by jackstands while installing the schock absorber assembly?
When you are ready to tighten everything up you put a jack under the lower arm and start jacking the hub up.
Jack it up until it just starts to lift the car off the jackstands.
(then the suspension is at "ride height")
Then lower it a tiny bit to get the support from the jackstand again.
Make sure the car is still supported properly!
At that point you tighten all suspension bolts (that were loosened) to spec'd torque.
The idea behind it is, that if you tighten all bolts with the suspension not at ride height, it will take extra force to get the suspension at ride height (as if you add another coil spring) and that will influence the handling.
Influence it in a bad way.
And it may ruin/wear out your upper and/or lower arm bushings.
edit : the bushings.. forgot about the bushings!
What exactly do you mean by prealoading ?
A.ka. ride height
(does that make sense?)
Anyway..
Your car was supported by jackstands while installing the schock absorber assembly?
When you are ready to tighten everything up you put a jack under the lower arm and start jacking the hub up.
Jack it up until it just starts to lift the car off the jackstands.
(then the suspension is at "ride height")
Then lower it a tiny bit to get the support from the jackstand again.
Make sure the car is still supported properly!
At that point you tighten all suspension bolts (that were loosened) to spec'd torque.
The idea behind it is, that if you tighten all bolts with the suspension not at ride height, it will take extra force to get the suspension at ride height (as if you add another coil spring) and that will influence the handling.
Influence it in a bad way.
And it may ruin/wear out your upper and/or lower arm bushings.
edit : the bushings.. forgot about the bushings!
10-08-2006, 03:20 PM
#18
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^ Thanks alot . I understand that my car should loaded before tightening the suspenion not while on the jacks.
I can do that in a muffler shop They have a huge space to work under the car .
I can do that in a muffler shop
They have a huge space to work under the car .
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