zeroptzero

If the piston may have extended a bit while the slave was off the car then yes you might have to push the piston back into place such that it is short enough to line things up. If you find it tough to compress the piston, crack open the bleed hole and push the piston down then close the bleed hole (fluid will squirt out obviously so be prepared for that). When I did mine I made the mistake of hitting the clutch better when the slave was off the car, the piston popped right out of the slave, what a pain in the butt that was. Had to crack the bleed to push it back into place.

mlc

Thanks how far in should it have to go? Mine isn't even close like at least an inch of. As you can see i am a ways off.


Slave cylinder
Thanks.
kevin

zeroptzero

well it doesn't look to be off by all that much, looks pretty close to being correct. The rod goes into the base of the piston by quite a bit of length so their isn't that much the extends out of the piston. I'd say squeeze it down a 1/4 inch or as much as you need to fit it, once you step on the clutch the first time it will fit itself the proper amount.

mlc

I will give it a shot.

Thanks.

Kevin

mlc

Update.

I had to crack the bleeder screw in order to to compress the slave cylinder. Did a really good bleed, about a dozen pumps. It moved the engagement down a little but I will see how it fells and might do a slight adjustment to the master cylinder rod.

Thanks.

Kevin

SpitfireS

If you haven't touched the slave I would not open the bleeder.
(too late I guess)
Just push it all back in.
The piston will come back out again, as there is a spring inside the slave.
As long as the piston doesn't come out to the point you're losing fluid you're ok.
Normally it won't come out that far.
Your pic is upside-down too

In that pic you don't have the 2 rubber dust boots on.
The big one, that fits over the slave and into the hole of the trans will make it a bit more difficult to install.
Don't forget to put grease on the parts!
Put the small dust boot on the pushrod, in its groove in the pushrod.
Put the push rod in the slave + grease.
Slide the small dust boot in its groove on the slave.
Put the big dust boot on.
Put grease on the pushrod ball and into the fork's cup.
Have one bolt ready.
Now maneuver the pushrod ball into the fork's cup and push the slave towards the fork to line up the bolt holes and put a bolt in but leave a little bit of play.
Put the second bolt in, again: with some play.
Now pry - I think that's a nice word for it - the boot in its seat in the trans.
You'll be able to slightly move the slave to get the boot to pop into the seat.
Tighten bolts to spec - 22Nm.
Done.

If you have opened the bleeder you could have introduced air in the system.
MAKE SURE THE RESERVOIR IS FULL
Put a clear hose on the bleeder - just like when you bleed brakes.
The hose is important as it will create a fluid seal.
Hold the slave in one hand pointing the bleeder upwards - the hose too as much as possible.
Open the bleeder AND slowly push the piston back in as far as it will go - its best to have the pushrod in too so you will get it deeper.
At the end of the stroke - close bleeder.
Let the piston come back out - slowly.
Now you're pumping fluid out the reservoir.
Now: IMPORTANT: fill up the master reservoir.
Maybe repeat once or twice, KEEP THE RESERVOIR FULL!

Now install the slave.
It should be good.

mlc

[QUOTE=SpitfireS,Nov 21 2009, 07:04 PM]If you haven't touched the slave I would not open the bleeder.
(too late I guess)
Just push it all back in.
The piston will come back out again, as there is a spring inside the slave.
As long as the piston doesn't come out to the point you're losing fluid you're ok.
Normally it won't come out that far.
Your pic is upside-down too

zeroptzero

sounds like it worked perfect for you. Adjusting the clutch rod is pretty normal, no biggie, it's always nice to get the pedal just where it feels good for you.

If you really want to optimize things try lubricating the shifter next (if you haven't done so already) as per the TSB listed on this site. It'll work perfectly with the upgrades you've done and makes things feel so smooth.

mlc

Damn...that was next on the list of things to do. I am sure I will get board over the winter and tackle that job. How hard is it to get the center console off. I know you start from the back at the glove box and work your way forward. Is there a DIY on this or a thead to kind of show the procedure.

Thanks.
Kevin

zeroptzero

it's one of those jobs that takes a couple hours the first time you do it, but then you figure out how easy it is to do and the second time you could do it in 15 mins. It is only the top portion of the console that comes up, there are about six clips, just put your finger tips under the rim of the top and push up, and a couple clips will pop loose at a time until you get through all 6. Remove the shift knob and a couple wiring connectors and you are into the shifter.

The tricky part of the shifter is understanding how the clips on the upper rubber boot ring work. Theren are 4 slits around the 4 marking points that allow you to slip a small flathead down and release the 4 clips. I just yanked on mine and it all came off in one piece (lucky). After it comes off you realize how it really works, he, he, he. Here is the link to the TSB
https://www.s2ki.com/stor/library/TSB/A02-046/index.htm

If you get the lube done correctly, you end up with the proverbial butter effect.