SDgoods

01 S2k, ~83,000 miles

I know theres a DIY thread about this to re-grease the clutch slave, but please read on...

A month or two ago I replaced my clutch master cylinder with an aftermarket one because it was leaking. I also greased the slave cylinder. I ended up having to adjust the pedal position, and before doing this i noticed that at the bottom point of free-play (right at the point of pressure), the clutch would need a little help coming all the way back up. I adjusted the rod/pedal and greased the clutch pedal pin, and the sticking clutch was cured. 2 weeks later it gets to the point that it wont come at all without any help from my foot. I greased the pin again but this time it didn't fix it. I had a friend push the pedal through free play while i was visually looking at the slave rod, and didn't see any movement. (eliminated unworthy greasing of slave?). Anyone experience this and need to replace the clutch return spring? (3 dollar part), or should i just re-grease the slave?

Notes: I did notice some fluid on the slave piston when i took it out and thought it was leaking, but since then the fluid level hasn't or has barley gone down at all.
My pedal position/engagement point was overall lower than with the stock master, and im wondering if i bring the engagement point back up to where it was, the spring will be more effective.

I have several options, so any input on what to do next would be great. Its an annoyance/becoming a habit bringing the clutch pedal all the way up manually.

Daniel G.

SDgoods

no one?

Back S2k

r u sure everything is bleed properly? u can gravity bleed ur clutch just like ur brakes try that.

SDgoods

I bled it when I replaced the CMC. Like i said in the op, it wasn't until a couple weeks after did this start happening

SDgoods

seriously? no one has any input?

mattstryfe

I am no certified mechanic but I have bled both the brakes and clutch on my car a few times. Air bubbles are a pain in the butt. It takes a good half hour or so to properly bleed everything depending on if you have help or not. I would start there as this is potentially free (assuming you have some fluid left). If anything, just do it again to eliminate it as a possible cause.

I understand you've already bled them but there arent to many components in question here. I would re-attack that first.

Good luck

SDgoods

Thanks for the input. Believe it or not im a partially certified tech hah but no longr work for a shop, so want to keep the work to a min and see if anyone came across same issue. Problem is in range of free play which led me away from air In system but ill try it again anyway.

SDgoods

well i ended up just adjusting the pedal to a higher engagement point and the pedal comes up on its own, although not entirely smooth, i think I need to find a better lube for the clutch pedal pin, ive been using moly grease and urea grease.

drunkpunks3

Im having a clutch pedal problem too. Got a new exedy oem clutch, act prolite flywheel. Noticed the clutch was kinda sticking at higher rpms. So I thought my CMC was going out so I replace it along with the CSC. Today the clutch got stuck to the floor and I had to bring it back up with my foot. I have been searching everywhere and can't find an answer. And yes I bled it correctly and did it 2 times just thinking their was air in the line. I was also thinking of the return spring on the clutch pedal but idk why I'm having all these issues because the car only has 54k miles.

zeroptzero

I swapped my clutch pedal, and the spring on the clutch pedal does not work to return the pedal after application, that is all done by the master cylinder rod and slave and clutch fork all under pressure with the pp. Check the clutch fork and then follow it backwards checking the slave, clutch rod until you find the problem, it won't be the clutch pedal/spring.