Lochness Monsta

So I've read over probably 10 different threads at this point and have read the same thing probably every time, someone tapped a curb and now their steering rack is bent. My issue is that I haven't hit any curbs, extreme pot holes, road debris, ect. and I am still having the same symptoms. The steering wheels is a bit stiffer to turn to the left than it is the right and is sticking/not going back to center when turned to the right. I had new tires put on the car and had an alignment done roughly 3000 miles ago. The issue started to show up probably with in the last 1500 miles or so, but mostly in the past 200-300 miles. The car was in a front-end collision several years ago and I have the accident report, pictures, and previous owner's statement that it was merely cosmetic. Any ideas? If the steering rack is bent then it is what it is, I just don't want to spend a whole Saturday and $500 if I don't really need to.

I will be putting the car up on a lift at work Saturday to double check everything, make sure tie rods aren't moving, ball joints aren't sticking, ect.

zeroptzero

some people with that issue had the neutral position on their steering rack reset and it solved the problem. I had it done on my car by my Honda dealer for like $60. I disconnected my steering knuckle and steering wheel in the past and I wanted to make sure the neutral position was correctly set. If the sensation you are feeling is caused electronically then a neutral reset procedure may help, if it is being caused by a mechanical issue (bent parts) then the neutral reset won't help. Your torque sensor on the steering system could also be starting to fail.

Lochness Monsta

Is there any way to test the sensor before replacing it, or is it just one of those things you replace and if it works it works? I'll have to call the stealership in the morning to see what they'll charge me.

Spartarus

Don't have to replace it, just have to reprogram the torque sensor neutral position. The sensors themselves practically never fail.

1. Start with Ignition off.

2. Short the SCS circuit to body ground.

3. Turn the steering wheel 45 degrees to the left from
the straight ahead driving position, and hold the
steering wheel in that position.

4. Turn the ignition switch ON (3rd pos). The EPS indicator comes on, then it goes off after 4 seconds.

5. Within 4 seconds after the EPS indicator goes off, return the steering wheel to the straight ahead driving position and release the steering wheel.

6. The EPS indicator comes on again 4 seconds after releasing the steering wheel.

7. Within 4 seconds after the EPS indicator comes on, turn the steering wheel 45 degrees to the left again and hold it in that position. The EPS indicator goes off after 4 seconds.

8. Within 4 seconds after the EPS indicator goes off, return the steering wheel to the straight ahead driving position and release the steering wheel. Do not move the steering wheel before turning the ignition switch OFF.

NOTE; lf the steering wheel is moved, the torque sensor neutral position cannot be written to memory.

9. The EPS indicator blinks twice 4 seconds after releasing the steering wheel. Then it blinks three times, 5 seconds after. Then, the indicator goes off.

The torque sensor neutral position is memorized. End of Procedure.

NOTE: If the EPS indicator stays on, there was an error in writing the torque sensor neutral position to memory. Repeat the procedure starting from step 3.

Attached are the appropriate images from the FSM

Chuck S

A couple of years ago I turned the steering wheel left and right several times while the car was running with all 4 wheels off the ground. The EPS fault light came on! I put all the wheels back on the ground and did the procedure above. All is well.

-- Chuck

Lochness Monsta

Well, the car finally went up in the air today. Both front lower control arm assemblies have torn bushings and the rear left lower forward control arm has play. Anyone know of any aftermarket options? OEM from Honda isn't too scary on pricing compared to my old M3, although I really don't feel like waiting almost a week to get them.

Edit: Scratch the not too scary pricing, even at my cost they are near $300 a piece. Any options for just the bushings?

lesnev2000

My steering has been odd too so I tried the reset noted above.
At item 2, when shorted it sparked, is that normal?
At item 4, the eps light never went off. Tried a cople more times no change.
Took everything off, now engine will crank but no start.
Did I blow a fuse?

lesnev2000

To answer my own question, Yes I blew a fuse.
Under hood fuse box, position #16, 15A, ACG S
And I know why. I missed the note on the diagram that says the view is from the WIRE side.
Thats a stupid way to show it. Should be as you see the connector. Had to remove the connector to verify.
Now to try the procedure.

lesnev2000

And the procedure worked. Steering wheel had been doing hard left turn to the stop when starting about 50% of the time mostly cold start.
After doing the procedure the wheel stays straight on the last 2 start ups.

Spartarus

No shame in that. It's a very easy mistake to make. Good you solved the problem and pointed that out. Could have saved you some time earlier, but didn't see the post until now.

Glad to hear it worked out for you.