Steel braided brake lines
04-02-2012, 10:56 AM
#31
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I have a old OEM brake line at home.
I can chop it up and take a picture of it tonight. From what I remember they DO have steel braids under the visible rubber coating. I think the bigger issue is weakening at the attachment points. ie... changing your pads and just hanging your caliper from the ABS line and brake line. DO NOT DO THIS. Grab a coat hanger and hang that up. Just leave the coat hanger in your tool box.
I can chop it up and take a picture of it tonight. From what I remember they DO have steel braids under the visible rubber coating. I think the bigger issue is weakening at the attachment points. ie... changing your pads and just hanging your caliper from the ABS line and brake line. DO NOT DO THIS. Grab a coat hanger and hang that up. Just leave the coat hanger in your tool box.
04-02-2012, 11:24 AM
#32
Registered User
I have a old OEM brake line at home.
I can chop it up and take a picture of it tonight. From what I remember they DO have steel braids under the visible rubber coating. I think the bigger issue is weakening at the attachment points. ie... changing your pads and just hanging your caliper from the ABS line and brake line. DO NOT DO THIS. Grab a coat hanger and hang that up. Just leave the coat hanger in your tool box.
I can chop it up and take a picture of it tonight. From what I remember they DO have steel braids under the visible rubber coating. I think the bigger issue is weakening at the attachment points. ie... changing your pads and just hanging your caliper from the ABS line and brake line. DO NOT DO THIS. Grab a coat hanger and hang that up. Just leave the coat hanger in your tool box.
04-02-2012, 01:19 PM
#33
Community Organizer
Updated my original post. It was missing a key bit of info wasn't it. 
The weave is not metal it was fibrous and easily cut with razor blade.
https://picasaweb.google.com/1064906...1/MiscPictures
The weave is not metal it was fibrous and easily cut with razor blade.
https://picasaweb.google.com/1064906...1/MiscPictures
04-02-2012, 01:51 PM
#34
I have a old OEM brake line at home.
I can chop it up and take a picture of it tonight. From what I remember they DO have steel braids under the visible rubber coating. I think the bigger issue is weakening at the attachment points. ie... changing your pads and just hanging your caliper from the ABS line and brake line. DO NOT DO THIS. Grab a coat hanger and hang that up. Just leave the coat hanger in your tool box.
I can chop it up and take a picture of it tonight. From what I remember they DO have steel braids under the visible rubber coating. I think the bigger issue is weakening at the attachment points. ie... changing your pads and just hanging your caliper from the ABS line and brake line. DO NOT DO THIS. Grab a coat hanger and hang that up. Just leave the coat hanger in your tool box.
04-02-2012, 02:56 PM
#35
Registered User
04-02-2012, 07:18 PM
#36
Moderator
Thread Starter
Installed the Challenge brake lines. Very happy with the fit and finish and factory mountings. Lengths are perfect.
I used the factory banjo bolts and sealing washers. The quality is superior to the challenge hardware.
Factory sealing washers are not copper. They are stronger, come out like brand new, and can take added torque over the copper.
I used the factory banjo bolts and sealing washers. The quality is superior to the challenge hardware.
Factory sealing washers are not copper. They are stronger, come out like brand new, and can take added torque over the copper.
04-02-2012, 08:10 PM
#37
Installed the Challenge brake lines. Very happy with the fit and finish and factory mountings. Lengths are perfect.
I used the factory banjo bolts and sealing washers. The quality is superior to the challenge hardware.
Factory sealing washers are not copper. They are stronger, come out like brand new, and can take added torque over the copper.
I used the factory banjo bolts and sealing washers. The quality is superior to the challenge hardware.
Factory sealing washers are not copper. They are stronger, come out like brand new, and can take added torque over the copper.
04-03-2012, 03:43 AM
#38
Moderator
Thread Starter
Yes you can. It will get 95% of the air out, sometimes 100%. So...
I would recommend 2-3 bleeds under pressure after a gravity bleed on each wheel.
I would recommend 2-3 bleeds under pressure after a gravity bleed on each wheel.
04-03-2012, 03:54 PM
#39
good to hear your review of the brake lines Billman250, while I used the banjo bolts and washers that came with the kit I do agree that that Honda parts are more substantial and I eventually went back to using them after I swapped brake caliper systems. They both worked fine and torqued up fine for me but I like the design of the Honda parts a bit better.
04-07-2012, 06:06 AM
#40
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Updated my original post. It was missing a key bit of info wasn't it.
The weave is not metal it was fibrous and easily cut with razor blade.
https://picasaweb.go...21/MiscPictures
The weave is not metal it was fibrous and easily cut with razor blade.
https://picasaweb.go...21/MiscPictures
I will also confirm that OEM brake lines are NOT metal weaved in the middle. They are fibrous mesh with plastic/rubber layed over top to seal.
FWIW, I was able to cut the brake line in half with regular scissors. I put the fitting from one end in a vise, clamped on to the rubber brake hose with vise grips. and pulled and twisted like crazy. I was very suprised at how difficult it was to break the hose after this. When it finally did break, it was the hose that broke. The hose never did come out of the fitting (one that goes to hardlines on the car).
Next, I will pull on the other end of the brake hose. I suspect that the caliper side of the hose will be much weaker (heat), but we will see.