Starting Issue
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Starting Issue
Loooong time lurker, first post.
Looking for some insight. I have a 2005 with 202,000 miles that has recently (within the last week) developed an issue when starting. It cranks, but will not start on the first or second crank as it has for the entirety of my ownership. While holding the start button, It will crank 5-7 times, then I'll let off & press it again. This will typically get it to start, albeit with a noticeable stutter (low RPMs). The ECU will kick up the RPMs & then everything will seem fine until I turn it off & try to start it again. This happens every time, cold or hot start. The battery was a few years old so I opted to replace it, but the issue still persists. The green immobilizer light on the dash illuminates for a few seconds when the key is inserted like normal. Seemingly no issues once started, or during any driving conditions. Only engine modifications are a Koyo radiator & Billman's TCT.
Any help is appreciated.
Looking for some insight. I have a 2005 with 202,000 miles that has recently (within the last week) developed an issue when starting. It cranks, but will not start on the first or second crank as it has for the entirety of my ownership. While holding the start button, It will crank 5-7 times, then I'll let off & press it again. This will typically get it to start, albeit with a noticeable stutter (low RPMs). The ECU will kick up the RPMs & then everything will seem fine until I turn it off & try to start it again. This happens every time, cold or hot start. The battery was a few years old so I opted to replace it, but the issue still persists. The green immobilizer light on the dash illuminates for a few seconds when the key is inserted like normal. Seemingly no issues once started, or during any driving conditions. Only engine modifications are a Koyo radiator & Billman's TCT.
Any help is appreciated.
#2
Spark plugs changed when?
-- Chuck
-- Chuck
#3
How's your starter relay?
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
I'm assuming fine, but I will test this weekend to confirm. To clarify, it doesn't stop cranking after 5-7 cranks on its own, only because I stop pressing the start button. It will crank continuously until I stop pressing the button. I will see if I can upload an in-cabin video later this evening.
#6
Sure the battery is fully charged. With COVID-19 I've had to charge my cars every couple of weeks. But if the engine cranks the battery is probably charge fine. That it starts after a couple of attempts is a puzzle.
Can you hear the fuel pump cycle on when the ignition is turned on? It should run for a few seconds to fully pressurize the system. Pressing START simultaneously with ignition On may not have enough fuel pressure. (Desperate guessing... )
-- Chuck
Can you hear the fuel pump cycle on when the ignition is turned on? It should run for a few seconds to fully pressurize the system. Pressing START simultaneously with ignition On may not have enough fuel pressure. (Desperate guessing... )
-- Chuck
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
Sure the battery is fully charged. With COVID-19 I've had to charge my cars every couple of weeks. But if the engine cranks the battery is probably charge fine. That it starts after a couple of attempts is a puzzle.
Can you hear the fuel pump cycle on when the ignition is turned on? It should run for a few seconds to fully pressurize the system. Pressing START simultaneously with ignition On may not have enough fuel pressure. (Desperate guessing... )
-- Chuck
Can you hear the fuel pump cycle on when the ignition is turned on? It should run for a few seconds to fully pressurize the system. Pressing START simultaneously with ignition On may not have enough fuel pressure. (Desperate guessing... )
-- Chuck
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#8
Registered User
Thread Starter
I hooked up the new battery to a jump starter today & tried starting it just to make sure I didn't receive a bad battery, the issue still persisted. I checked the ENGINE START, FUEL PUMP SRS & STARTER SIGNAL fuses under the dash as well, all were fine. I decided to pull the BACK UP fuse & reset the ECU. After 15 minutes of idling, I turned it off, restarted & it fired up like normal. I made it about 300 yards down the road before the check engine light came on. Turned around, hooked up my OBD2 scanner & got 2 codes for running rich. I cleared the codes, went to restart & the issue was back. I've attached a video that I took after I got home & tried to start it again.
#9
What were those specific OBD2 CEL codes?