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Starter grind

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Old 06-03-2005, 10:07 AM
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Default Starter grind

I did a quick search and found nothing quite like this problem. When the stater button is pushed the engine starts normally but the starter continues for brief time 1/2 to 1 second. Same sound as the accidental start of a car already running, kind of a starter grind. The car runs fine no other problems. This particular problem is only occasional, and will last for a day or two (5-8 starts), then goes away for a few months. It's happening today, any thoughts?

Patrick
Old 06-03-2005, 11:16 AM
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Either your starter Bendix is sticking or your start button is.
Old 06-03-2005, 01:00 PM
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Thank you xviper. Hopefully it is the button, it seems like that would be an easier/cheaper fix. Do you know if there is a way to check either the button or starter Bendix, or should I continue on until it becomes a bigger issue? It is very much intermittent. I went out at lunch today and it did not happen, (3 starts).

Thanks,

Patrick
Old 06-03-2005, 01:12 PM
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I can almost guarantee it's your timing chain tensioner. Makes a clattering noise right after you let go of the button. fixed it on about 8 s2k's already.

Back in the day, I started a post about "starter afterrun noise", and the t-chain tensioner cured it. I too thought for sure the bendix was sticking.

Part is about 125 bucks, very simple fix.
Old 06-03-2005, 01:23 PM
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Here's what I would do: When you start the car, first just "blip" the start button quickly. You should hear the solenoid activate and deactivate. Then press the start button again to start the car. If the starter sounds like it's not disengaging during the blip, and it sounds like it's already engaged when you press it the second time, then you found your problem - a sticking solenoid.

Here's another option: Temporarily hook up a voltmeter to the starter circuit. Personally, I'd go with an analog voltmeter, and not digital. If you prefer, you could hook up a 12 volt LED instead. Then watch the meter or the LED and see if it stays on after you take your finger off the start button.

I don't have a wiring diagram in front of me, but your best bet would be to hook it up right at the start button.

I'd bet money that it's your solenoid. If you're just hearing the teeth meshing, that's the likely culprit. If the solenoid is bad, you're better off just replacing the starter.

Edit: I forgot about Billman's experiences. He has a good point.
Old 06-03-2005, 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by billman250,Jun 3 2005, 05:12 PM
I can almost guarantee it's your timing chain tensioner. Makes a clattering noise right after you let go of the button. fixed it on about 8 s2k's already.

Back in the day, I started a post about "starter afterrun noise", and the t-chain tensioner cured it. I too thought for sure the bendix was sticking.

Part is about 125 bucks, very simple fix.
I was going to ask about something similiar...When I start my car, it starts fine, but for a brief second, there's a rattle or knocking somewhere in the engine, but it immediately goes away. If I push the start button, and kill it, and then do it again, it doesn't seem to appear (or not as noticeable). Am I experiencing the same problem in your opinion?
Old 06-03-2005, 03:35 PM
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I honestly think you guys have the exact same problem. I also have heard this in about a dozen other s2k's, besides the ones I have fixed.

I would think there would be a recall or TSB eventually, this is becomming very common.
Old 06-03-2005, 05:50 PM
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Pop the hood and listen to the engine as someone starts the car for you. If it's coming from the front of the motor, it's the t-chain tensioner. Mine eventually started making the noise occasionally at idle. I haven't hear a peep since I replaced the tensioner.
Old 06-03-2005, 06:54 PM
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Billman, guys,

Can you explain to me why, if the problem is a faulty chain tensioner, does the noise clear up after a few seconds? Wouldn't the noise just continue because of too much play in the chain?
Old 06-03-2005, 07:00 PM
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The noise will clear up upon oil pressure in the tensioner. The initial jolt of oil psi is enough to extend the tensioner back to operating position. Eventually it will get worse, and do it all the time at idle.


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