S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

sqeeky clutch?

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Old 09-26-2007, 06:38 PM
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my noise just appeared today. it's wierd, seems like most of the people who has posted up on this have ap1, but mine is an 07 ap2!! wouldn't have honda dealt with something like this and fixed it already?

but anyways, how would i flush the "clutch hydraulics"?? i checked my clutch fluid and it does look very cloudy, not smooth like the brake fluid.

thanks,
scott
Old 09-26-2007, 06:54 PM
  #32  

 
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Originally Posted by bunz559,Sep 26 2007, 10:38 PM
it's wierd, seems like most of the people who has posted up on this have ap1, but mine is an 07 ap2!!
the last post before yours was from 3 years ago, so i'm not surprised that most people who have posted have an ap1.

to flush/bleed the master cylinder:
suck as much fluid out of the master cylinder first, then fill with new DOT 3 brake fluid.
then find the clutch bleed screw (it's on the driver side of the transmission housing, and it pretty much looks like the brake bleed screw.) remove the rubber cap, then yell for a friend to help you out - the following process goes a lot faster with 2 people.

1. loosen the bleed screw
2. push the clutch pedal all the way in; fluid should be coming out (i used a pvc tube to guide the fluid down into a container; otherwise the fluid will squirt out) also, the pedal should not pop back up
3. with the clutch pedal all the way in, tighten the bleed screw.
4. with the bleed screw tightened, pull the clutch pedal back out.

repeat until the fluid coming out looks clean.

good luck!
Old 09-26-2007, 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by S2-3456789-K,Sep 26 2007, 06:54 PM
the last post before yours was from 3 years ago, so i'm not surprised that most people who have posted have an ap1.

to flush/bleed the master cylinder:
suck as much fluid out of the master cylinder first, then fill with new DOT 3 brake fluid.
then find the clutch bleed screw (it's on the driver side of the transmission housing, and it pretty much looks like the brake bleed screw.) remove the rubber cap, then yell for a friend to help you out - the following process goes a lot faster with 2 people.

1. loosen the bleed screw
2. push the clutch pedal all the way in; fluid should be coming out (i used a pvc tube to guide the fluid down into a container; otherwise the fluid will squirt out) also, the pedal should not pop back up
3. with the clutch pedal all the way in, tighten the bleed screw.
4. with the bleed screw tightened, pull the clutch pedal back out.

repeat until the fluid coming out looks clean.

good luck!
gottcha!! thanks for the help... much appreciated

but one other thing, i read about possibly lubbing the piece that connects to the clutch pedal and the master cylinder, anyone have a DIY on that? sorry for not searching well enough but i figured since it was in this thread anyways.

scott
Old 09-29-2007, 11:23 AM
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Quick test:

Disengage and engage the clutch without running the car and try to pinpoint the sound. MC and slave are easy to check if squeaking, its pretty obvious, my civic master is squeaking right now but not effecting operation.

'sqeeky' only when the clutch pedal is depressed when on a test drive would usually point to the pilot bearing or throw out bearing. The pilot bearing sits in the center of the flywheel as it supports the transmission input shaft on rwd application. When you disengage the friction plate from the flywheel the input shaft now spins on the pilot bearing, squeaking could indicate worn bearing or lack of lubrication, replace as necessary.

Throw out bearing could squeak with a lack of lubrication, but usually associated with clutch noise due to improper installation. This causes the bearing to be 'cocked' creating uneven pressure of the diaphragm fingers giving a funny feel in the clutch pedal. Lack of lube on your throw bearing/transmission input shaft may create a 'grabbing' effect because your bearing has a tougher time moving towards and away from the pressure plate diaphragm. Grabbing is when the clutch has a rough time dis/engaging usually associated either the friction plate hub (center) or throw out bearing not moving freely enough along the trans input shaft.

Either way, always start at the basics before tear down, think simple first, do your test at the top. Main thing is Don't stress out trying to determine wither its a TO bearing or pilot, as they both require removing the bell housing.

Hope this helps, I don't really what it is because I can't hear the squeaking for myself so I'll can do is past on information.

Joey
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