Spun Connecting Rod Bearings Question *UPDATE ON POST #21 W/ PICTURES*
02-04-2013, 10:05 AM
#41
2 new rods and a new oem crankshaft on the way!!!
I didn't order the bearings because the guy on the other side of the phone told me that I will still have to measure to see which ones I need. I kind of thought that there would be a standard spec on the OEM crankshaft, but I guess I will order those once I get the other parts.
Engine will most likely be pulled this weekend and hopefully everything will be running in a few weeks.
I didn't order the bearings because the guy on the other side of the phone told me that I will still have to measure to see which ones I need. I kind of thought that there would be a standard spec on the OEM crankshaft, but I guess I will order those once I get the other parts.
Engine will most likely be pulled this weekend and hopefully everything will be running in a few weeks.
02-04-2013, 11:56 AM
#42
You will need the stampings from the crankshaft as well as the rods to determine what size rod bearings you will actually need. Use the factory service manual and follow it to a T if you want good results. Honda makes something like 5 or 6 different size bearings just for the rods alone due to how tight of tolerances that this motor needs to be assembled with. Good luck with your endeavor. If you need an FSM, I can point you in the right direction.
02-04-2013, 12:05 PM
#43
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Originally Posted by jordanksartell' timestamp='1360004710' post='22313692
You will need the stampings from the crankshaft as well as the rods to determine what size rod bearings you will actually need. Use the factory service manual and follow it to a T if you want good results. Honda makes something like 5 or 6 different size bearings just for the rods alone due to how tight of tolerances that this motor needs to be assembled with. Good luck with your endeavor. If you need an FSM, I can point you in the right direction.
02-05-2013, 11:36 AM
#44
You need to check the crank with a micrometer to verify that that wear and ovality is within factory limits. Looking at those photo's I'd say it isn't going to pass that test anymore. The only solution then (to have a repair that will last more than a couple of hundred miles) is to have the crank reground and to fit oversize bearings (also clean out all oilways and replace oil pump because swarf will have circulated in the oilways causing damage). That's all assuming Honda recommend such a repair (I'd guess in such a highly stressed engine they probably don't).
Over in the UK it seems you can buy used engines from write-offs reasonably cheap these days. Why don't you try this route instead (be a lot less hassle and probably as cheap/cheaper)?
Over in the UK it seems you can buy used engines from write-offs reasonably cheap these days. Why don't you try this route instead (be a lot less hassle and probably as cheap/cheaper)?
02-05-2013, 12:09 PM
#45
You need to check the crank with a micrometer to verify that that wear and ovality is within factory limits. Looking at those photo's I'd say it isn't going to pass that test anymore. The only solution then (to have a repair that will last more than a couple of hundred miles) is to have the crank reground and to fit UNDERSIZED bearings (also clean out all oilways and replace oil pump because swarf will have circulated in the oilways causing damage). That's all assuming Honda recommend such a repair (I'd guess in such a highly stressed engine they probably don't).
Over in the UK it seems you can buy used engines from write-offs reasonably cheap these days. Why don't you try this route instead (be a lot less hassle and probably as cheap/cheaper)?
Over in the UK it seems you can buy used engines from write-offs reasonably cheap these days. Why don't you try this route instead (be a lot less hassle and probably as cheap/cheaper)?
02-07-2013, 09:36 AM
#46
Originally Posted by mikdys' timestamp='1360096575' post='22316460
You need to check the crank with a micrometer to verify that that wear and ovality is within factory limits. Looking at those photo's I'd say it isn't going to pass that test anymore. The only solution then (to have a repair that will last more than a couple of hundred miles) is to have the crank reground and to fit UNDERSIZED bearings (also clean out all oilways and replace oil pump because swarf will have circulated in the oilways causing damage). That's all assuming Honda recommend such a repair (I'd guess in such a highly stressed engine they probably don't).
Over in the UK it seems you can buy used engines from write-offs reasonably cheap these days. Why don't you try this route instead (be a lot less hassle and probably as cheap/cheaper)?
Over in the UK it seems you can buy used engines from write-offs reasonably cheap these days. Why don't you try this route instead (be a lot less hassle and probably as cheap/cheaper)?
02-07-2013, 12:14 PM
#47
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Originally Posted by yamahaSHO' timestamp='1360098553' post='22316549
[quote name='mikdys' timestamp='1360096575' post='22316460']
You need to check the crank with a micrometer to verify that that wear and ovality is within factory limits. Looking at those photo's I'd say it isn't going to pass that test anymore. The only solution then (to have a repair that will last more than a couple of hundred miles) is to have the crank reground and to fit UNDERSIZED bearings (also clean out all oilways and replace oil pump because swarf will have circulated in the oilways causing damage). That's all assuming Honda recommend such a repair (I'd guess in such a highly stressed engine they probably don't).
Over in the UK it seems you can buy used engines from write-offs reasonably cheap these days. Why don't you try this route instead (be a lot less hassle and probably as cheap/cheaper)?
You need to check the crank with a micrometer to verify that that wear and ovality is within factory limits. Looking at those photo's I'd say it isn't going to pass that test anymore. The only solution then (to have a repair that will last more than a couple of hundred miles) is to have the crank reground and to fit UNDERSIZED bearings (also clean out all oilways and replace oil pump because swarf will have circulated in the oilways causing damage). That's all assuming Honda recommend such a repair (I'd guess in such a highly stressed engine they probably don't).
Over in the UK it seems you can buy used engines from write-offs reasonably cheap these days. Why don't you try this route instead (be a lot less hassle and probably as cheap/cheaper)?
Fair point but I still think a S/H engine is the best option (and that the crank is U/S as is)
[/quote]
Interesting points guys. Like I said though, I already ordered NEW OEM Crankshaft / connecting rod kits and will be purchasing a complete set of new main bearings / connecting rod bearings. The engine should run fine after that, yes?
02-07-2013, 12:56 PM
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The oil pump looked completely fine, but I am the type of person to play it safe. Right now the parts are backordered for a week so I can still add some other goodies if necessary. I picked up an engine hoist yesterday. I would like to get an engine stand, but I have heard that there have been problems with mounting the engine to the stand??
02-09-2013, 03:35 PM
#50
Maybe I'm missing something, but I could have sworn in a previous post you said that the cylinder walls are scored, but I don't think in any of your posts you mentioned you would replace the block or put sleeves in....