4forall

Check the oil pick up screen and take off your vtec selonoid and check that screen. If you find shavings in either of these locations that means they got to the head and work themselves into the cylinders. If this is the case then just get a new shortblock.

yamahaSHO

It really depends on how far the damage went. I wouldn't bother with that crank as it will be likely that you'll have failure down the road reusing it.

Here's what your crank is likely to look like:



Here's what your rod is likely to have experienced:



The opposite side of the rod (still on the big end) is likely discolored from heat and splayed. If the rod cap is hard to take off, it's because the bolts are now sitting like this: \ /


If your in Florida, a member is selling a F22c block with decent miles for $1300. reason for sell is, he just decided to build is block, he's willing to ship it....Here you go
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This is the route I would take. Buy a good used engine, replace the bearings, and swap your good parts over.


From what ive read on here, the F20c EATS Mobil 1 like a teenager on a pot binge. I use Penzoil Platinum full syn and I would say I add about 2/3 a quart between the 7K miles I drive before a change. Really sucks this happened to you but like they always say, you live..you learn..
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I haven't seen a performance car that doesn't eat the quickly shearing Mobil 1 oil.


It's highly unlikely that the shavings will get through the oil pickup screen and the filter. If you really want to see where the material has gone, don't flip the engine over on a stand to take off the oil pan. It will spread shavings everywhere when you do that.

Norccer

Thanks guys. Especially, thank you YamahaSHO. I have a plenitude of pictures that I will post tomorrow. My crankshaft on cylinders #1 and #2 is slightly scored, but nothing as significant as the pictures that you posted. I felt the crankshaft in the "scored" spots and it feels extremely smooth. I will still measure them and replace all of the connecting rod bearings. What I need to know is if the scoring is significant enough to get the crank polished.

Thanks all, until tomorrow.

SouthDakotaS2K

Normally if you can see wear it's already too much. You're talking about clearances between 0.0007 - 0.002".

Norccer

I can understand that, but since it is very minimal I would argue that I don't need new rods at least. I will get the pics up later today for everybody to have a look at. They are on my friend's camera so I don't have the ability to get them right now.

sillyboybmxer

sorry to hear man.

yamahaSHO

I've seen people replace rod bearings on car that have spun them in the past. They ended up spinning them again, some on the very first drive.

Norccer

Thanks. Hopefully, I will get things fixed soon.


I've seen people replace rod bearings on car that have spun them in the past. They ended up spinning them again, some on the very first drive.
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I think that I will pull the crankshaft to get it professionally polished if that is the case. ~~ still waiting on the pictures.

s2000Junky

I think Billman would disagree with calling this motor quits yet. If it were me, I think id just spend the $150 on another set of bearings, remove the end caps and replace them and bolt the pan back on and give it a go. There is a chance this could solve the issue indefinitely. For the minimal cost and effort it takes to do this, wouldn't it be worth trying, if is saved you the $3-4k and headache of doing a motor swap?

JUSTINTHECOASTIE

Pending the damage, this could be an option.