Hybrid901

By looking at the dyno graph you posted I would have to think the cams arn't stock because of the way the graph looks below vtec. Also I would go throw a supercharger on it until you find out exactly what all is done to the motor especially compression and cams. But great number none the less.

Gernby

Have you done a compression test on it?

ArinX

good advice

SocratesDTC

Guys, this motor uses STOCK cams.

I say that because the J's Racing N1 motor (which is something like Spoon N1) doesnt use aftermarket cams, and it produces 280 hp at the crank!

(according to Spoon)

Project SSAP1

how the hell is that kind of power possible with almost a stock engine??? what is exactly done to make this kind of power....i have seen some other dyno results with P&P head, toda spec a's cams and tuned and its not even close to these results...yes i do know that all dynos are different...but his spoon N1 motor is making some sick power....his dyno plot doesn't even compare to a stock f20c...the low end is total different and the vtec crossover looks very aggressive and climbs to 9k hard....a stock motor is very linear...what is the secret behind this motor??????

is the spoon ecu being used for this motor???? if not i think it would be a good idea to use it since it was designed for this motor instead of trying to use a vafc...i bet using the spoon ecu it would help that low end dip

i would get the spoon cams and ecu to make and head back to the dyno...

mxt_77

Wait a second... the ambient temperature is 83.9 degrees Fahrenheit and the correction factor is 1.20 ???
When I dyno'd with an ambient temp of 87.3 degrees, the correction factor was only 1.02. So, even though you have cooler ambient temps, they're giving you an extra 18% of free power? That doesn't sound right. I think if you go back and work the math (using accurate correction factors), you'll find that you're putting down 208rwhp... not 248. That would be about right for a stock motor with your mods.

That's too bad... because I was actually getting excited about the possibility of making 250rwhp with an F20C.

SocratesDTC

projectSSap1,


1) Port & Polish in F20C = no results (or at least minimal results), because our cyl. head is one of the best ever made in a production car.

2) The secret for a N1 motor is this: (translated, sorry)

-Modification on head surface
-Valve grinding
-Port grinding
-Modification on cylinder surface
-Super high precision attachment
-aftermarket pistons
-aftermarket piston rings
-aftermarket water pump
-aftermarket oil pump
-aftermarket Cam chain
-aftermarket Tensioner
-aftermarket cotter
-aftermarket head bolts
-aftermarket crank cap bolts
-aftermarket gasket
-Js racing SPL. headcover
-Js racing SPL. oilpan

3) Then you can add:

-cams
-N1 ECU
-big throttle
-CAI
-Exhaust

(it's illegal to use ITB's in a N1 engine)

(if you add ITB's --> )

Project SSAP1

ahhhhhh...now that sounds more like it.....thank you for this catch...can you explain how to read the dyno sheet correction factor for dyno dummies ...what exactly is this correction factor???

revto9k

I was under the impression that the N1 does not allow any aftermarket parts for the block.

mxt_77

The CF is a multiplier that the dyno/computer uses to estimate the impact that variable environmental factors have on a engine's power output. They generally include ambient temperature and humidity, at least. Higher temps and higher humidity make it more difficult for an engine to make power, so the dyno measures actual output at the wheels and then uses the correction factor to estimate how much power the engine would make under optimal conditions (apparently, optimal conditions are ~75degrees F and 0% humidity).

You can see on the first dyno chart that the correction factor is 1.20, which means that whatever numbers you see there are actually 20% higher than what the dynojet actually measured at the wheels. This is an unrealistic correction factor for the conditions under which this car was tested. If you remove that correction factor, you would find that the car was actually making about 207-209hp at the rear wheels. The true correction factor should be between 1.00 and 1.02, so he's really only making a corrected 207-211hp at the rear wheels.

I suspect that this shop may be fudging the correction factor in an attempt to estimate Flywheel hp, instead of actual rear wheel hp.