Speedometer gauge flicker
#21
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Originally Posted by 90crvtec,Apr 2 2007, 07:14 PM
These are classic symptoms of a bad alternator. You wouldn't be the first s2k owner to report one failing, this seems more common as the cars begin to age.
#23
Originally Posted by 90crvtec,Apr 2 2007, 10:14 PM
These are classic symptoms of a bad alternator. You wouldn't be the first s2k owner to report one failing, this seems more common as the cars begin to age.
#24
I have this problem as well, but its only when:
-I am idling at 800-900 rpm
-headlights are on
any amount of rpm increase will make it go away.
I thought it might be the alternator, so I turned on the car, and disconnected the negative off the battery. In cars with bad alternators, the engine will start dying immedietely and completely shut off very soon (depending on how bad the alternator is)
When I disconnected the negative, the car was still on like nothing happened, it idled for about 30 secs to a minute before I shut it off and reconnected the negative cable.
-I am idling at 800-900 rpm
-headlights are on
any amount of rpm increase will make it go away.
I thought it might be the alternator, so I turned on the car, and disconnected the negative off the battery. In cars with bad alternators, the engine will start dying immedietely and completely shut off very soon (depending on how bad the alternator is)
When I disconnected the negative, the car was still on like nothing happened, it idled for about 30 secs to a minute before I shut it off and reconnected the negative cable.
#25
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last time i checked you disconnect the POSITIVE.
that doesnt prove anything. your alternator could be charging intermittend, or the voltage regulator could be bad.
A sure way and FREE way to find out is your local autozone or advance shop. Or you could hook it up to your computer and we will diagnose it over the internet. let me know when you got it hooked up
that doesnt prove anything. your alternator could be charging intermittend, or the voltage regulator could be bad.
A sure way and FREE way to find out is your local autozone or advance shop. Or you could hook it up to your computer and we will diagnose it over the internet. let me know when you got it hooked up
#26
Silencertk
Took your advice and went to Autozone and had them test the alternator and battery. Both tested good, and asked if he was sure... So he ran many more tests, saying something about putting different loads on electrical system.
Every test he ran had the alternator putting out above 14, or about 13.5 when the system was fully loaded. He said this means my alternator is running like a champ.
Took your advice and went to Autozone and had them test the alternator and battery. Both tested good, and asked if he was sure... So he ran many more tests, saying something about putting different loads on electrical system.
Every test he ran had the alternator putting out above 14, or about 13.5 when the system was fully loaded. He said this means my alternator is running like a champ.
#27
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I once owned a C4 Corvette with a digital spedo and Tach. It developed the same problem you described. That problem turned out to be a bad ground. In addition to loose connections stated above, Don't forget ground wires. Good luck.
#28
the alternator will test good if you take it to an autozone or cheapy store....... it will even test good on an OEM Honda scanner, If you use a high dollar Snap-on scanner it will tell you its bad
thats because the voltage output is still good. but the Amperage output is way low..... he said 14v's and 13.5v's yea that is the Voltage, have him check the Amperage.
do yourself a favor and get a new alternator before you are left strained......
thats because the voltage output is still good. but the Amperage output is way low..... he said 14v's and 13.5v's yea that is the Voltage, have him check the Amperage.
do yourself a favor and get a new alternator before you are left strained......
#29
Originally Posted by BlownAP,Apr 5 2007, 09:35 PM
the alternator will test good if you take it to an autozone or cheapy store....... it will even test good on an OEM Honda scanner, If you use a high dollar Snap-on scanner it will tell you its bad
thats because the voltage output is still good. but the Amperage output is way low..... he said 14v's and 13.5v's yea that is the Voltage, have him check the Amperage.
do yourself a favor and get a new alternator before you are left strained......
thats because the voltage output is still good. but the Amperage output is way low..... he said 14v's and 13.5v's yea that is the Voltage, have him check the Amperage.
do yourself a favor and get a new alternator before you are left strained......
#30
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haha i love having a dad who is a shop manager at a highly reputable diesel engine/truck shop. all i do is ask him to stick by after work for 10 minutes..and we hook my car up to this huge ass battery tester/alternator tester. its as big as a tool chest and has its own wheels/handle to move it around. it basically tests for everything....see if you can take it to a local shop and pay one of your friends/an employee to test it for you. 20$ goes a long way