Something wrong wtih rear end
#21
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It sounds pretty "fast", IOW the pitch of the noise is high.
To me it does sound like a gear noise.
And the pitch gets higher as the car goes faster.
Not necessarily diff gears, could be transmission too IMO.
The secondairy reduction maybe?
That is independant of the gear you are in IIRC, as it is connected to the propshaft.
As suggested.. get the rear of the car of the ground and with the engine running, ( best place to do that is on a lift ) try to pin point where the noise is coming from.
I would not drive the car too much though.
It doesn't sound good.
To me it does sound like a gear noise.
And the pitch gets higher as the car goes faster.
Not necessarily diff gears, could be transmission too IMO.
The secondairy reduction maybe?
That is independant of the gear you are in IIRC, as it is connected to the propshaft.
As suggested.. get the rear of the car of the ground and with the engine running, ( best place to do that is on a lift ) try to pin point where the noise is coming from.
I would not drive the car too much though.
It doesn't sound good.
#23
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Was the Diff... Buying a used one on here. The 04 works fine with the 00 right? Also, as mentioned above, i didnt add any cv spacers when i lowered. Where do you buy those at?
#24
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s2k_PikeStyle Posted on Oct 29 2006, 11:41 PM
That was one noisy diff then.. what happened?
Any pictures of the insides?
What diff oil were you using and how long since the last change?
IIRC there is a companion flange (for the propshaft) difference between AP1 and AP2.
And according to the service manual (and personal experience) that companion flange is not that easy to swap from old to new diff.
Options are IMO
1 - find a used diff with the same companion flange as you have now (most likely 00-03) => bolt on diff.
2 - If the flange on the diff is different swap diff flanges, but IMO that involves taking the new diff apart and changing some parts (self locking nut & crush sleeve, maybe even some seals while it is open). After that operation => bolt-on diff.
3 - If the flange on the diff is different, swap the flange on the transmission to match the flange on the diff. I've just been reading in the service manual and that is an easy swap, no adjusting to be done. Maybe a new oil seal. After that you also need another matching propshaft of course.
Then => bolt-on diff & propshaft.
You need the proper tools too, to do whatever your decision will be
Was the Diff...
Any pictures of the insides?
What diff oil were you using and how long since the last change?
Buying a used one on here. The 04 works fine with the 00 right?
And according to the service manual (and personal experience) that companion flange is not that easy to swap from old to new diff.
Options are IMO
1 - find a used diff with the same companion flange as you have now (most likely 00-03) => bolt on diff.
2 - If the flange on the diff is different swap diff flanges, but IMO that involves taking the new diff apart and changing some parts (self locking nut & crush sleeve, maybe even some seals while it is open). After that operation => bolt-on diff.
3 - If the flange on the diff is different, swap the flange on the transmission to match the flange on the diff. I've just been reading in the service manual and that is an easy swap, no adjusting to be done. Maybe a new oil seal. After that you also need another matching propshaft of course.
Then => bolt-on diff & propshaft.
You need the proper tools too, to do whatever your decision will be
#25
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if you swap diff flanges then you will need to have the clearances checked on the gears after the flange install, otherwise you could end up with another failed diff.
the easiest thing to do would be to get an ap1 diff or try an output flange for your trans.
*edit
If you swap the output flange on the trans then you will have to pick up an ap2 prop. shaft.
the easiest thing to do would be to get an ap1 diff or try an output flange for your trans.
*edit
If you swap the output flange on the trans then you will have to pick up an ap2 prop. shaft.
#26
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oh wow, i thought it was just bolt on. The car is in the honda dealership, i suppose i should just go with an AP1, i just thought the AP2 was stronger.
I'll take some pictures of the Diff when i get it. Right now they still have it.
changed diff fluid at 30k with no metal shavings with mobil 1. was at 42k.
I'll take some pictures of the Diff when i get it. Right now they still have it.
changed diff fluid at 30k with no metal shavings with mobil 1. was at 42k.
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