Some Test Pipe Questions
#21
I've done some searches for a simulator and yet to encounter one that works with our car. Unfortuantely the ecu is a bit too advanced and sensitive. I guess only a wideband would work for now until someone comes out with a more elaborate simulator.
#23
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test pipe is not worth it on a near stock s2000. it really comes useful in highly tuned n/a or f/i motors.
pros:
-louder/better sound(depends on what the person likes)
-more freeflowing
-some hp gain(not much if you're still n/a)
cons:
-noticable loss of lowend torque(some will say this a myth but i've driven highly modified civics and integras with test pipes and they do feel sluggish off the line but shine in VTEC), a stock s2000 is already lacking in this department
-sometimes can make the exhaust sound raspy/buzzy
-fail emissions
-makes your bumper very, very dirty. turns it almost yellow and black from all the soot.
-it also smells very bad, and if you have the top down, the smell could get inside which is not a good thing if you have your girlfriend in the car
pros:
-louder/better sound(depends on what the person likes)
-more freeflowing
-some hp gain(not much if you're still n/a)
cons:
-noticable loss of lowend torque(some will say this a myth but i've driven highly modified civics and integras with test pipes and they do feel sluggish off the line but shine in VTEC), a stock s2000 is already lacking in this department
-sometimes can make the exhaust sound raspy/buzzy
-fail emissions
-makes your bumper very, very dirty. turns it almost yellow and black from all the soot.
-it also smells very bad, and if you have the top down, the smell could get inside which is not a good thing if you have your girlfriend in the car
#24
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#27
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Hey, i was looking around on the net and found this:
http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=769737
Is this the simulator that has been working for you?
http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=769737
Is this the simulator that has been working for you?
#28
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Runaround
Hey, i was looking around on the net and found this:
http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=769737
Hey, i was looking around on the net and found this:
http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=769737
#30
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After installing the J's Racing test pipe to decat, and removing the "Backup fuse" I found no problem (no CEL/MIL light). What i DID notice was that the idle was bad... really bad. Bad to the point of stalling the car.
In order to stall the car, at idle it would be fine (sitting at about 1K RPM), but if I blipped the throttle to say 2K or 3K, the immediately release the throttle, it would drop all the way to maybe 200rpm or something (1 light on the Rev indicator... about 200-300 rpms?), and in some cases, completely stall at that point.
I then had the MAP sensor, throttle body, etc. sprayed/cleaned, and since then, when blipping the throttle it goes down to maybe about 3-4 lights on the Rev indicator, but it doesn't stall.
The other people posting about having idle problems similar to this after de-catting with a test pipe may need to do the same thing. It solved it for me.
The question would be... why does having the backup fuse in help? I suspect the ECU somehow compenstates for this, because it always dropped but never stalled with the back-up fuse in.
I haven't noticed any other problems with the backup fuse pulled out (for about a week now). The only side effect is if you're running hard, then come to a stoplight or a stop, then the fumes wiff forwards and you get a dose of bad smell, which really smells noxious. A note to asthma suffers... it CAN bring on an attack if you inhale a bunch of those fumes!!! Since then, I learned to slow down earlier... and for example push in the clutch well before the light rather than engine braking all the way to a stop, unless I am racing or otherwise.
Besides that, as others have mentioned, the aircon resets to off, but i think that is a good thing, as I never recommend the aircon to be on when starting the car anyway.
I have the Mugen exhaust, and with the test pipe, low down loudness does not sound any different, but past 6k RPM (vtec) it sounds like a MONSTER. It sort of sounds like the HKS exhaust (with a cat) but louder. I image a HKS exhaust or other loud exhaust may become intolerable with a test pipe due to the increase in the already loud sound... but that is personal preference.
Is there a performance increase? Nothing much I've noticed. Maybe a little bit more up top, but nothing in particular (this may be because of the louder sound, making the butt dyno feel better ;-) ).
In order to stall the car, at idle it would be fine (sitting at about 1K RPM), but if I blipped the throttle to say 2K or 3K, the immediately release the throttle, it would drop all the way to maybe 200rpm or something (1 light on the Rev indicator... about 200-300 rpms?), and in some cases, completely stall at that point.
I then had the MAP sensor, throttle body, etc. sprayed/cleaned, and since then, when blipping the throttle it goes down to maybe about 3-4 lights on the Rev indicator, but it doesn't stall.
The other people posting about having idle problems similar to this after de-catting with a test pipe may need to do the same thing. It solved it for me.
The question would be... why does having the backup fuse in help? I suspect the ECU somehow compenstates for this, because it always dropped but never stalled with the back-up fuse in.
I haven't noticed any other problems with the backup fuse pulled out (for about a week now). The only side effect is if you're running hard, then come to a stoplight or a stop, then the fumes wiff forwards and you get a dose of bad smell, which really smells noxious. A note to asthma suffers... it CAN bring on an attack if you inhale a bunch of those fumes!!! Since then, I learned to slow down earlier... and for example push in the clutch well before the light rather than engine braking all the way to a stop, unless I am racing or otherwise.
Besides that, as others have mentioned, the aircon resets to off, but i think that is a good thing, as I never recommend the aircon to be on when starting the car anyway.
I have the Mugen exhaust, and with the test pipe, low down loudness does not sound any different, but past 6k RPM (vtec) it sounds like a MONSTER. It sort of sounds like the HKS exhaust (with a cat) but louder. I image a HKS exhaust or other loud exhaust may become intolerable with a test pipe due to the increase in the already loud sound... but that is personal preference.
Is there a performance increase? Nothing much I've noticed. Maybe a little bit more up top, but nothing in particular (this may be because of the louder sound, making the butt dyno feel better ;-) ).
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