Some Help Please...
06-27-2011, 08:21 PM
#11
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doing the test i told u about earlier not only tests the to see if the coils are firing but the intensity of the spark....it might have spark but the spark might not strong enough to ignite the air fuel mixture...simple but effictive test...also u might be right with the tune being wrong...
So I did what you said and there is no spark. I even rapped wire around the treads of a plug and stuck the plug into the coil and no spark.. That with my fuel pump fuse unplugged (dont know if that matters). NOW... why is there no spark when I check for it but it will start for a few sec and then die? If there was no spark at all then it wouldn't even start for a sec.
I check the fuses for the coils under the dash and the one in the main fuse box under the hood and they look fine. BUT I have relocated the (under hood) fuse box before I installed this motor with the other one out. All lights and every thing works fine and I know thats all is wired good.
What to do now?
Why would it start for a sec then die if there was no spark at all?
06-29-2011, 08:36 AM
#15
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I have 2 ECU's. One came with my new motor but no key. And one thats in my car thats for my car. Im 100% sure that the one in my car is mine. The immobilizer key signal flashes when I put the other ecu in the car. But when I put mine back in the immobilizer key signal stays off.So Im sure the guy sent me back mine.... Just didnt re-flash it like I was told.
FYI.. to everyone....
If you have to check for spark from the coils or plugs .... You HAVE to have the fuel pump fuse plugged in under the dash. I unplugged the pump fuse and then checked for spark but I was not getting any. I then check the volts at the coil.. still nothing. Went back and plugged the fuel pump fuse back in and I then got spark and volts. THE HELMS MANUAL DOES NOT SHOW THE TWO WIRED TOGETHER AT ALL. So im about 99% sure its the ECU. Im going to have it towed to honda in the next few days to have the ecu re flashed and see what happens.
06-29-2011, 10:32 AM
#17
Get the NEW ECU out the car, and use you existing ECU. The immobilizer is tied to your key, the sender in the lock and the ECU. If you change one part of the three, you have to have it reprogramed at the dealer for a cost$$.
And Stop messing the fuel pump. The ECU controls the pump, and so does the immobilizer. See above!
And Stop messing the fuel pump. The ECU controls the pump, and so does the immobilizer. See above!
06-29-2011, 11:58 AM
#18
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Get the NEW ECU out the car, and use you existing ECU. The immobilizer is tied to your key, the sender in the lock and the ECU. If you change one part of the three, you have to have it reprogramed at the dealer for a cost$$.
And Stop messing the fuel pump. The ECU controls the pump, and so does the immobilizer. See above!
And Stop messing the fuel pump. The ECU controls the pump, and so does the immobilizer. See above!
What are you talking about? The new ECU is NOT in my car. I have MY ECU in MY car (using my existing ECU). I know its tied to my key... I know the ecu controls the pump... I pulled the pump fuse so I could turn the motor over to check for spark while a plug was out of the head. I didnt want to keep pumping gas into the motor while checking for spark. Some people should read a whole thread before posting. And as stated before but Ill write again... Im going to take my car to Honda and have them re-flash MY ECU because im thinking the guy who had my ecu never flashed it back to stock (from the boost tune). Im going to tow it there in a few days. Ill keep ya'll posted.
06-29-2011, 12:01 PM
#19
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Wanted to give a big THANKS to all that has helped me with this. I will give everyone a heads up when Im done getting a re-flash at Honda in a few days.
This would have been fixed along time ago If S2KI didn't erase all our emails. I could have looked him up and called him to ask what he did to my ECU and called it a day..
This would have been fixed along time ago If S2KI didn't erase all our emails. I could have looked him up and called him to ask what he did to my ECU and called it a day..
06-29-2011, 02:05 PM
#20
Originally Posted by Stratocaster' timestamp='1309372337' post='20731868
Get the NEW ECU out the car, and use you existing ECU. The immobilizer is tied to your key, the sender in the lock and the ECU. If you change one part of the three, you have to have it reprogramed at the dealer for a cost$$.
And Stop messing the fuel pump. The ECU controls the pump, and so does the immobilizer. See above!
And Stop messing the fuel pump. The ECU controls the pump, and so does the immobilizer. See above!
What are you talking about? The new ECU is NOT in my car. I have MY ECU in MY car (using my existing ECU). I know its tied to my key... I know the ecu controls the pump... I pulled the pump fuse so I could turn the motor over to check for spark while a plug was out of the head. I didnt want to keep pumping gas into the motor while checking for spark. Some people should read a whole thread before posting. And as stated before but Ill write again... Im going to take my car to Honda and have them re-flash MY ECU because im thinking the guy who had my ecu never flashed it back to stock (from the boost tune). Im going to tow it there in a few days. Ill keep ya'll posted.