So you wanna build a race motor aye?
05-06-2005, 02:03 PM
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So you wanna build a race motor aye?
There's always a big debate whether or not one should go N/A (naturally aspirated) or FI (forced induction). There are great benefits to doing both for obvious reasons.
Forced Induction:
One of the greatest inventions in recent times since engineers first came out with superchargers and turbo units. Both units offer great power, speed, torque, and most of all good driving. The most common on the IRHA circuit is the most obvious with that of the turbo kit. Turbo kits are the choice of many on the track due to the high PSI (pounds per square inch) and the ability to adjust the PSI with the push of a button. These turbo units have paved the way to 9 second runs.
Superchargers are the greatest thing as well too with the turbine being connected to the intake portion of the motor rather than the exhaust portion of the motor like the turbo unit. Superchargers offer great power on demand with a constant 2psi (depending on applications) at any given time allowing for zero turbine lag and better throttle response. The Supercharger has a set PSI of any range based on the diameter of the pulley.
Naturally Aspirated:
For those of us on here that prefer the enjoyment of tearing things down and building them back up would go with the NA applications. Although NA applications don't use an exhaust or intake turbine, the power comes from within. All cars without the assistance of forced induction are NA.
So why build the motor?
A. Building the motor of a NA aspirated car is the most humbling experience one can ask for. To tear apart a motor and build it back up with stronger internal components all to get 230RWHP is something to be deserving of a pat on the back. Let's get down to the basics.
Pistons: pistons provide the compression that best determines the amount of horsepower that your car will dish out at any given time. When I build a motor I usually opt for the oversized domed pistons just out of personal preference. Pistons can be bought through any aftermarket performance shop with many mfg. companies that sell applications for the S2000. If you're going all motor the best to use is the 12:1 applications.
Bore Size: When you buy oversized pistons, 9 times out of 10 you're going to have trouble fitting the new pistons in the stock combustion chamber of the block. This is easily curable by sending out the block to a machine shop to have the block bored out .30 over or any other application you deem necessary. Once you get the block back you'll find little cross hatches in the cylinder walls. This makes the rings of your pistons stay in a certain position during the up and down movement.
Connecting Rods: In order for your pistons to work in unison with the rotation of the crank shaft you need connecting rods. Connecting rods attach the piston to the crank. A good connecting rod is stronger than a stock application and maybe shorter or longer than a stock application. I would recommend the connecting rods from either Spoon, Mugen, JG Engine, or Skunkworks. All of these mfg. have track proven credentials which are essential into building a race motor.
Crank: Believe it or not alot of horsepower can be lost through the crank. The crankshaft allows the rotation of the pistons and cams to be in unison to time exactly the 4 strokes of the motor to work in harmony. A stainless steel crank is usually the weapon of choice in my arsenal into building a good motor. Lighter weight and balanced, the crank is an essential key into horsepower gains. If you do opt to use the stock crank then you should opt for the machine shop to shot peen and knife edge the crank for smooth rotation.
Oil Pan:Another trade secret one may not be aware of is the oil pan. Yes that's right the oil pan. When the pistons reach their lowest position on any given stroke that part of the piston is traveling through so many inches of oil in the crankcase. With this travel through the oil there is always a certain percentage of horsepower that is lost. Picture yourself running through a swimming pool. At the 3 feet level you're pretty much struggling and use alot of energy to run to the other side. Now imagine running through a 6 inch section of a swimming pool (if there really is one). You'll notice a greater amount of force that doesn't have to be used. The same analogy is used for the crankcase. By buying a race oil pan, you not only allow for just enough oil to lubricate the internal components, but you also allow for oil to be maintained in the crankcase on hard turns if you do track racing.
contd....
Forced Induction:
One of the greatest inventions in recent times since engineers first came out with superchargers and turbo units. Both units offer great power, speed, torque, and most of all good driving. The most common on the IRHA circuit is the most obvious with that of the turbo kit. Turbo kits are the choice of many on the track due to the high PSI (pounds per square inch) and the ability to adjust the PSI with the push of a button. These turbo units have paved the way to 9 second runs.
Superchargers are the greatest thing as well too with the turbine being connected to the intake portion of the motor rather than the exhaust portion of the motor like the turbo unit. Superchargers offer great power on demand with a constant 2psi (depending on applications) at any given time allowing for zero turbine lag and better throttle response. The Supercharger has a set PSI of any range based on the diameter of the pulley.
Naturally Aspirated:
For those of us on here that prefer the enjoyment of tearing things down and building them back up would go with the NA applications. Although NA applications don't use an exhaust or intake turbine, the power comes from within. All cars without the assistance of forced induction are NA.
So why build the motor?
A. Building the motor of a NA aspirated car is the most humbling experience one can ask for. To tear apart a motor and build it back up with stronger internal components all to get 230RWHP is something to be deserving of a pat on the back. Let's get down to the basics.
Pistons: pistons provide the compression that best determines the amount of horsepower that your car will dish out at any given time. When I build a motor I usually opt for the oversized domed pistons just out of personal preference. Pistons can be bought through any aftermarket performance shop with many mfg. companies that sell applications for the S2000. If you're going all motor the best to use is the 12:1 applications.
Bore Size: When you buy oversized pistons, 9 times out of 10 you're going to have trouble fitting the new pistons in the stock combustion chamber of the block. This is easily curable by sending out the block to a machine shop to have the block bored out .30 over or any other application you deem necessary. Once you get the block back you'll find little cross hatches in the cylinder walls. This makes the rings of your pistons stay in a certain position during the up and down movement.
Connecting Rods: In order for your pistons to work in unison with the rotation of the crank shaft you need connecting rods. Connecting rods attach the piston to the crank. A good connecting rod is stronger than a stock application and maybe shorter or longer than a stock application. I would recommend the connecting rods from either Spoon, Mugen, JG Engine, or Skunkworks. All of these mfg. have track proven credentials which are essential into building a race motor.
Crank: Believe it or not alot of horsepower can be lost through the crank. The crankshaft allows the rotation of the pistons and cams to be in unison to time exactly the 4 strokes of the motor to work in harmony. A stainless steel crank is usually the weapon of choice in my arsenal into building a good motor. Lighter weight and balanced, the crank is an essential key into horsepower gains. If you do opt to use the stock crank then you should opt for the machine shop to shot peen and knife edge the crank for smooth rotation.
Oil Pan:Another trade secret one may not be aware of is the oil pan. Yes that's right the oil pan. When the pistons reach their lowest position on any given stroke that part of the piston is traveling through so many inches of oil in the crankcase. With this travel through the oil there is always a certain percentage of horsepower that is lost. Picture yourself running through a swimming pool. At the 3 feet level you're pretty much struggling and use alot of energy to run to the other side. Now imagine running through a 6 inch section of a swimming pool (if there really is one). You'll notice a greater amount of force that doesn't have to be used. The same analogy is used for the crankcase. By buying a race oil pan, you not only allow for just enough oil to lubricate the internal components, but you also allow for oil to be maintained in the crankcase on hard turns if you do track racing.
contd....
05-06-2005, 02:30 PM
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I wrote it, and yes you can throw in aftermarket pistons if you don't bore it.
The decimal point is not exact, but you can punch a block to 30 over. I wrote it and there is such thing as a stainless steel crank.
The decimal point is not exact, but you can punch a block to 30 over. I wrote it and there is such thing as a stainless steel crank.
05-06-2005, 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by BroInTheKnow,May 6 2005, 02:30 PM
I wrote it, and yes you can throw in aftermarket pistons if you don't bore it.
The decimal point is not exact, but you can punch a block to 30 over. I wrote it and there is such thing as a stainless steel crank.
The decimal point is not exact, but you can punch a block to 30 over. I wrote it and there is such thing as a stainless steel crank.
FYI our block isnt the same construction/material as a civic/integ
05-06-2005, 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by BroInTheKnow,May 6 2005, 02:03 PM
When the pistons reach their lowest position on any given stroke that part of the piston is traveling through so many inches of oil in the crankcase. With this travel through the oil there is always a certain percentage of horsepower that is lost.
Have you ever taken a S2k engine apart? 
