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My starter is sticking and i want to changer the upper radiator hose, so maybe it makes sense to remove it to do the other jobs
No need to remove IM to change that. Remove alternator and tensioner, you'll have ALL the room you need to do the thing. If you have a boroscope you can use it to help you get to the top starter bolt, as you'll still need extensions, the bottom one can be gotten from underneath the car.
No need to remove IM to change that. Remove alternator and tensioner, you'll have ALL the room you need to do the thing. If you have a boroscope you can use it to help you get to the top starter bolt, as you'll still need extensions, the bottom one can be gotten from underneath the car.
I may need to do a head gasket and figure its only a few more bolts to get the IM off, so why not?
Wait...what's wrong that makes you think you need a HG?
I am still tracking things down. Low compression on cyc 1 of 180 while the rest are 210+. I scoped the cylinder and it looks a tad wet. The coolant doesnt smell and my oil analysis looks fine.
I need to do a leak down test to check valves, but you figure any head work will require me to remove the head so just planning things out in my head. I could be completely off track once i do the leak down test.
I am still tracking things down. Low compression on cyc 1 of 180 while the rest are 210+. I scoped the cylinder and it looks a tad wet. The coolant doesnt smell and my oil analysis looks fine.
I need to do a leak down test to check valves, but you figure any head work will require me to remove the head so just planning things out in my head. I could be completely off track once i do the leak down test.
180 vs 210 probably isn't anything to do with the head gasket.
Maybe a tight valve or something.
Unless the car has overheated...it really unlikely your HG is busted. Don't open the engine unless you have to. I wanted to avoid doing this at all costs and I exhausted every possibility before doing it.
You're gonna get a bunch of foreign material into the engine (unavoidable) and you're gonna open up the possibility of damaging something very expensive.
So...my advice is to check every box before you open up the engine.
180 vs 210 probably isn't anything to do with the head gasket.
Maybe a tight valve or something.
Unless the car has overheated...it really unlikely your HG is busted. Don't open the engine unless you have to. I wanted to avoid doing this at all costs and I exhausted every possibility before doing it.
You're gonna get a bunch of foreign material into the engine (unavoidable) and you're gonna open up the possibility of damaging something very expensive.
So...my advice is to check every box before you open up the engine.
I agree and I plan to. I just bought the car and it has an aftermarket koyo radiator. Finished a valve adjustment and everything was way too tight.
ive adjusted valves and checked compression. About the same. Ran some seafoam and need to check. Borescope and it seemed fine but leak down first
Where did yours fail? My oil also had no visible traces of coolant mixing. I really think the leak was isolated to the combustion chamber/coolant passage.
It didn't seem to be leaking coolant into the chamber either. Only allowing pressurized combustion air into the coolant.
Between water passage and cyl 2. Interestingly, we ran it on full kill on the dyno, and couldn't get it to pressurize the cooling system. The problem was most noticeable during cold start (or otherwise after the car had been sitting a while). The still pressurized coolant would seep into the cylinder. Again, i'm mildly shocked that it wasn't puking coolant under WOT, and coolant tested negative for combustion byproduct. And it made the same power on the dyno as it had previously. Compression tested good.
Backstory is the thermostat stuck shut on the freeway, and I didn't catch it quickly enough.
06-02-2021, 03:59 AM
