Snapped idler gear/cam chain sprocket bolt
#21
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I've never had it apart but this one time to find this problem.. it had the washer and everything its required to have when I took it apart
I'm just going to remove the head and get another one or get another engine I can get a complete longblock for 2k
Thanks for the replys
I'm just going to remove the head and get another one or get another engine I can get a complete longblock for 2k
Thanks for the replys
#22
Originally Posted by Robert O,Jan 4 2011, 01:33 PM
There would be tig welding necessary first to fill the breached head before machining. I personally wouldn't advise.Others may differ.
Bore the counterbore out by an extra 5mm overall diameter, then put a ring with an approprate outer diameter, and the same inner diameter as the original hole. The hub with the shoulder will hold it in place when assembled as it has a large diameter flange.
#23
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Originally Posted by chris_barry,Jan 3 2011, 09:46 PM
Why is welding required?
Bore the counterbore out by an extra 5mm overall diameter, then put a ring with an approprate outer diameter, and the same inner diameter as the original hole. The hub with the shoulder will hold it in place when assembled as it has a large diameter flange.
Bore the counterbore out by an extra 5mm overall diameter, then put a ring with an approprate outer diameter, and the same inner diameter as the original hole. The hub with the shoulder will hold it in place when assembled as it has a large diameter flange.
#24
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Easy fella's.. I've got two choices right now (A) get a head and install it and hope the guy that owned it b4 me dis it right or (B) get another engine with low miles
#25
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How would one shear / snap a 8mm bolt?
That's not easy.
Unless it had a defect from the start.
IIRC the threads are rolled on to the bolt, not cut into it.
Cutting threads could be the start of a defect, rolled threads are a lot stronger.
Btw.. the gears on the cams are scissor gears, they can handle a little deviation.
That's not easy.
Unless it had a defect from the start.
IIRC the threads are rolled on to the bolt, not cut into it.
Cutting threads could be the start of a defect, rolled threads are a lot stronger.
Btw.. the gears on the cams are scissor gears, they can handle a little deviation.
#26
Same thing happened to my car. There is NO drilling that bolt out. We took the head off and even tried on a drill press.
I ended up buying a used head.
Also had too many metal shavings in oil pan from trying to drill it out with head still on car (Stupid I know). Problem happened in mayish and I deployed in june so I bought a beater car, 93 prelude.
Decided to just drop all my deployment money into the car to be built up at laskey while im gone, also bought a ptuning kit. will be puttin it all together when I get back to the states.
I was just out for a drive in the city, wasn't going too fast and just pressed down on the throttle a little and *CLUCK* car sounded like sh*t, took it to a friends and saw it.
Don't know what caused it to just break, that bolt is extremely hard and it just snapped right off!
I ended up buying a used head.
Also had too many metal shavings in oil pan from trying to drill it out with head still on car (Stupid I know). Problem happened in mayish and I deployed in june so I bought a beater car, 93 prelude.
Decided to just drop all my deployment money into the car to be built up at laskey while im gone, also bought a ptuning kit. will be puttin it all together when I get back to the states.
I was just out for a drive in the city, wasn't going too fast and just pressed down on the throttle a little and *CLUCK* car sounded like sh*t, took it to a friends and saw it.
Don't know what caused it to just break, that bolt is extremely hard and it just snapped right off!
#28
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Originally Posted by Blucky87,Jan 4 2011, 06:49 AM
Same thing happened to my car. There is NO drilling that bolt out. We took the head off and even tried on a drill press.
I ended up buying a used head.
Also had too many metal shavings in oil pan from trying to drill it out with head still on car (Stupid I know). Problem happened in mayish and I deployed in june so I bought a beater car, 93 prelude.
Decided to just drop all my deployment money into the car to be built up at laskey while im gone, also bought a ptuning kit. will be puttin it all together when I get back to the states.
I was just out for a drive in the city, wasn't going too fast and just pressed down on the throttle a little and *CLUCK* car sounded like sh*t, took it to a friends and saw it.
Don't know what caused it to just break, that bolt is extremely hard and it just snapped right off!
I ended up buying a used head.
Also had too many metal shavings in oil pan from trying to drill it out with head still on car (Stupid I know). Problem happened in mayish and I deployed in june so I bought a beater car, 93 prelude.
Decided to just drop all my deployment money into the car to be built up at laskey while im gone, also bought a ptuning kit. will be puttin it all together when I get back to the states.
I was just out for a drive in the city, wasn't going too fast and just pressed down on the throttle a little and *CLUCK* car sounded like sh*t, took it to a friends and saw it.
Don't know what caused it to just break, that bolt is extremely hard and it just snapped right off!
I got a used head on the way.. Are the stock head bolts ok to re torqe or should I spring for some headstuds
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s02k Posted: Jan 2 2011, 12:52 AM
s02k Posted on Jan 4 2011, 09:09 PM
So to reset an ECU you removed sensors and harness and put it back together?
No offence, but I don't get it.
Anyway..
Start with 29 Nm in the right sequence.
Then for used bolts turn 90 degrees and another 90 degrees (both in sequence)
Lube the threads of the bolts with motor oil and remove all oil from the thread holes in the block to avoid any "hydrolock".
Make sure the bolt doesn't make any noise while tighting it down.
If it does, loosen, relube and try again.
And..
By looking at how a good head looks..
and how little the bushing sits into the head...
succesfully repairing it would have been close to impossible.
Well after wating for all the sensors and harness to get in and put everything back together I start the car to hear a load tapping noise under the valve cover.. I shut the car off as quickly as possible and get my tools to take the valve cover off to check it out.
and then my car shut off.. Put it in neutral clutch in tried to start it and nothing.....happend to have to much weight on my key ring and triggered the immobilizer.. said to pull the backup fuze to reset the ecu so did that and she fired right up but had that loud noise under the valve cover so I shut her down and waited till morning.. Then you guys know the rest..
No offence, but I don't get it.
Anyway..
Are the stock head bolts ok to re torqe or should I spring for some headstuds
Then for used bolts turn 90 degrees and another 90 degrees (both in sequence)
Lube the threads of the bolts with motor oil and remove all oil from the thread holes in the block to avoid any "hydrolock".
Make sure the bolt doesn't make any noise while tighting it down.
If it does, loosen, relube and try again.
And..
By looking at how a good head looks..
and how little the bushing sits into the head...
succesfully repairing it would have been close to impossible.
#30
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[/QUOTE]
Yah it looks worse next to a good one
No didnt haft to do the harness but it was rigged up so it got replaced while I had the time off from work.. Sorry about that