Snapped idler gear/cam chain sprocket bolt
01-02-2011, 03:51 PM
#11
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Originally Posted by chris_barry,Jan 2 2011, 03:28 PM
Before you drill try using a pointed punch to tap the broken off end of the bolt counterclockwise. Chances are it will freewheel out of the head without the need to drill. More than often the drilling actually winds the broken out bit hard into the bottom of the threaded hole.
If that fails, if you have access to a MIG welder, try to weld a dag onto the end of the broken bolt so you can grab it with pliers/side cutters. This method is much quicker with less chance of damaging the threads than drilling.
If that fails, if you have access to a MIG welder, try to weld a dag onto the end of the broken bolt so you can grab it with pliers/side cutters. This method is much quicker with less chance of damaging the threads than drilling.
Didnt have the req. bolt and nut at the house for the tensioner so I had to run to Lowes and grab some and now its dark.
If i cant get it out with the screwdriver then I might just weld the driver on the broken bolt and lock some vice grips and turn it out then run the tap in there to insure the threads are clean.. Forgot all about my mig welder lol dont get to use it much living in a apt.
Might not get back to it untill this upcoming weekend, vacation is over and as many hours as I work theres no way im going to get to it durring the week..
01-02-2011, 03:56 PM
#12
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Originally Posted by chris_barry,Jan 2 2011, 06:28 PM
Before you drill try using a pointed punch to tap the broken off end of the bolt counterclockwise. Chances are it will freewheel out of the head without the need to drill. More than often the drilling actually winds the broken out bit hard into the bottom of the threaded hole.
If that fails, if you have access to a MIG welder, try to weld a dag onto the end of the broken bolt so you can grab it with pliers/side cutters. This method is much quicker with less chance of damaging the threads than drilling.
If that fails, if you have access to a MIG welder, try to weld a dag onto the end of the broken bolt so you can grab it with pliers/side cutters. This method is much quicker with less chance of damaging the threads than drilling.
you can also use an extractor without drilling into the center of the bolt with a drill bit.
such as this one
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZfbqbKb8aB8 [/media]
s02k, in your case, i'd punch a hole in the screw and drill it out.
01-02-2011, 04:06 PM
#13
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If you can get a left hand drill bit and have a reversible drill ,I've removed more than a few broken off studs by simply drilling into the center with a reverse drill bit. This is if you're not able to walk it out using a punch or screw driver blade and small hammer.Just make sure you indent the stud first with a center punch so the bit doesn't walk on you.
01-03-2011, 11:08 AM
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Ok so I got up alittle early today and went out and took off the tensioner and gor the gear out of the way.. What I seen doesent look to good to me, metal shavings and looks like a small hole on the right side of the bolt.. Ive never had this apart to im unsure of how it should look but im thinking I might need a new head
Took the best pic's I could and Left the bolt in there for now untill I know if its even worth messing with it..
All i can do for today, goto go into work soon but ill check in on break to see if theres any good or bad news posted.. Thanks
Ps: there was also metal shavings in the vtec silon. filter.. so im sure theres more in the oil floating around.. what should I do when I get the head fixed or get a new head.. Im guessing change the oil before I start it, then let it run for a few minutes and change it again? I have not drove it since it started making that noise as soon as I heard it I shut it off, I was parked and didnt rev it or anything
Took the best pic's I could and Left the bolt in there for now untill I know if its even worth messing with it..
All i can do for today, goto go into work soon but ill check in on break to see if theres any good or bad news posted.. Thanks
Ps: there was also metal shavings in the vtec silon. filter.. so im sure theres more in the oil floating around.. what should I do when I get the head fixed or get a new head.. Im guessing change the oil before I start it, then let it run for a few minutes and change it again? I have not drove it since it started making that noise as soon as I heard it I shut it off, I was parked and didnt rev it or anything
01-03-2011, 03:52 PM
#15
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Yea.You're right .It doesn't look good.Seems like the bolt was either loose or the helical gear/sprocket bearing siezed and severely wallowed the recess and seat out . I can see where it wore its way all the way through. IMO,its not worth trying to repair to spec.As long as you have it down this far,I'd recommend dropping the oil pan as well. That's the only way to insure removing any and all of the metal shavings that are likely throughout the oil circuit.
Was that camshaft drive gear bolt ever removed or loosened prior to this issue? Just wondering.
Was that camshaft drive gear bolt ever removed or loosened prior to this issue? Just wondering.
01-03-2011, 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by s02k,Jan 3 2011, 03:08 PM
dude, how did it get like this??
you said you've owned the car for 2 months and drove it 10-15 miles.
did you notice anything weird before all this?
01-03-2011, 05:46 PM
#17
The sleeve that the pulley rotates on has a shoulder that engages in the hole in the head. It looks like that has been working and has chundered up the metal in the head.
If you can get the broken bolt out you may find that when tightened up correctly there will be enough clamping load to hold the pulley sleeve in place. Its worth trying before replacing the head.
If you had the head off you could get a machinist to rebore the shoulder counterbore and install a ring sleeve to get it back to original size. Not an easy part to work on with the front of the head in the way. It could be done with a custom cutter on a boring head.
If you can get the broken bolt out you may find that when tightened up correctly there will be enough clamping load to hold the pulley sleeve in place. Its worth trying before replacing the head.
If you had the head off you could get a machinist to rebore the shoulder counterbore and install a ring sleeve to get it back to original size. Not an easy part to work on with the front of the head in the way. It could be done with a custom cutter on a boring head.
01-03-2011, 06:14 PM
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^^ good advice.
i think the cause for this was having no washer in front of the sprocket (#22) or no collar for the idle gear (#10).
i cant think of any other causes.
i think the cause for this was having no washer in front of the sprocket (#22) or no collar for the idle gear (#10).
i cant think of any other causes.
01-03-2011, 06:33 PM
#20
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Originally Posted by chris_barry,Jan 3 2011, 06:46 PM
The sleeve that the pulley rotates on has a shoulder that engages in the hole in the head. It looks like that has been working and has chundered up the metal in the head.
If you can get the broken bolt out you may find that when tightened up correctly there will be enough clamping load to hold the pulley sleeve in place. Its worth trying before replacing the head.
If you had the head off you could get a machinist to rebore the shoulder counterbore and install a ring sleeve to get it back to original size. Not an easy part to work on with the front of the head in the way. It could be done with a custom cutter on a boring head.
If you can get the broken bolt out you may find that when tightened up correctly there will be enough clamping load to hold the pulley sleeve in place. Its worth trying before replacing the head.
If you had the head off you could get a machinist to rebore the shoulder counterbore and install a ring sleeve to get it back to original size. Not an easy part to work on with the front of the head in the way. It could be done with a custom cutter on a boring head.