Needsmorepower!

If I roll onto the throttle its fine. If I "punch it" the rpms jump a little (maybe 200rpms- maybe less) and it feels like the intake is pulling in more and more air like a big gulp, then it gets caught up

B serious

Ok...that's a really confusing description. Any CEL's on?

Backmarker

Sounds like a slipping clutch to me -- but a video would really help if you can get one?

Needsmorepower!

No cel. I'll try for the video but my local friend (who recently sold his s-damn) said he's thinking slipping also... Now to figure out how to fix it if it is a slipping clutch. Replacement more than likely but.... How to prevent this from just happening again. This was a new flywheel (OEM ap1) new disc. New bearing, and new pressure plate. I'm going to take off the dust cover and look inside to see if my slave cylinder might be partially resting on the t/o bearing and not allowing full pressure to be put on the disc... Ughhh I'll upload a video whenever I get a co-pilot lol

B serious

The slave cylinder is always going to preload the throw out bearing with the force of the spring inside of it. Probably less than about 10lbs of preload. That's normal.

Again...if your RPMs are rising more than the car is accelerating, the clutch is slipping. If that's not happening...its not slipping.

Needsmorepower!

Last question before I tear into it again. I was messing around with engagement points shifting slowly around normal rpms... I discovered if I press the clutch in about 1/2 way, I can shift perfectly smoothly. With the OEM clutch I would press all the way to the floor (as it should be) for a clean shift. Could there be "to much preload on the shift fork? When I let my foot off the clutch it engages seemingly slower than the OEM pressure plate...I'm beginning to think the act pressure plate may be an issue the h-021 is the correct plate for the s2000 (2006+) correct?

Back S2k

Did you break in the clutch properly once it was installed? You could glazed the disk in which case you would get slip.

Needsmorepower!

I always drive the car pretty easily except on rare occasions and lately... But when I put the clutch in, I always take it out of gear at stop lights, I don't rest my foot on the clutch, and I don't ride the clutch. After I installed it, I didn't go over 3k rpm for about 100 miles, 4k rpm for another 100 miles, 5k rpm for an additional 100 miles, no VTEC until 1000 miles after install. I also kept under 30-40% throttle the entire time... Whenever I hit 1000 miles I took it through VTEC only partial throttle a few times, and then after that I did a full throttle run from 2-3gear. I never dump the clutch nor do I rarely (if ever) do anything childish like donuts (occasionally on wet pavement for amusement)

B serious

....so why buy a stage2 clutch?

I have never, in my life, broken in a clutch. I rip. Right outta the box.

I think you still need to determine if your clutch is slipping. Pretty easy test.

Try this:
-put it in 4th at like 3-4k RPM.
-floor it.
-do the RPMs rise as if you were partially putting your the clutch pedal down?

Needsmorepower!

Okay. Here is what I did today and the results.

Stainless steel braided clutch line was taken off.
Installed my OEM clutch line and bled the system.

Results: the "slipping" is gone, including 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gear tests that were recommended above for slipping clutch diagnosis.

New problem: the clutch engagement point on the OEM line is almost at the floor which makes driving, tricky in the stop and go traffic around me...

Situation: do I try again to use the braided clutch line and potentially have the slip return? Or just continue bleeding the rubber clutch line.


additionally, the reason for the upgrade is that I wanted to go forced induction, and since I was going to be installing a clutch anyway, I figured why not install it a little early.