slave cylinder RUBER boot bURST
06-09-2007, 01:57 PM
#1
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slave cylinder RUBER boot bURST
Hey guys i ran to a huge probem here i have an ap2 wanted to take out the delay valve on the slave cylinder , took out the cylinder valve and gave up tring to remove the darn ring! so decided to just put it back. while bleeding the clutch after a few pumps ( jsut about finished bleeding) all of the suden it started leaking fluid from the ruber boot. took it back out and notice that the ruber broke!. why could this be? can somebody please give me detail instructions into how to bleed clutch / re install the slave cylinder valve,? to see if i did something wrong? thank you soo much im car less for the weekend maybe longer now (daily driver) i need help asap please. need to buy a new clutch valve now anyways but don't want to make the same mistake (if did) with the new 
please help thanks again in advance
please help thanks again in advance
06-10-2007, 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by SpitfireS,Jun 10 2007, 07:58 AM
Where is it leaking?
Note: this is an AP1 slave without the delay valve.
, part number 10... "ripped" and leaks fluid thru there.... any idea why that part would break, rip, burst??? could it be because of unproper bledding? 
thanks soo much P.S. can i just replace that ruber piece (#10) without haveing to replace the whole part??
06-10-2007, 12:11 PM
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Did you "pump" bleed it while the slave was off the transmission?
If so, that's not correct.
You'll push the piston out of the slave and it will leak.
Bleeding the slave by pumping the clutch pedal must be done with the slave on the transmission in its proper position.
There is a DIY clutch flush & bleed on top of UTH.
A gravity bleed is better IMO, no DIY, run a search for "gravity clutch bleed".
I'm sure you'll find it.
Part #10 is just a dust cover.
The piston is #1, the piston seals are #6 & #7 and those have to leak to get fluid leaking out.
That is not normal and not good.
Maybe the cylinder housing itself is scored too, part #5.
IMO, rebuild with new seals #6 & #7 (if housing #5 and piston #1 are ok) or replace.
Inspect and make sure no parts are "left" inside the cylinder.
You're welcome.
1 picture says more then a 1000 words
If so, that's not correct.
You'll push the piston out of the slave and it will leak.
Bleeding the slave by pumping the clutch pedal must be done with the slave on the transmission in its proper position.
There is a DIY clutch flush & bleed on top of UTH.
A gravity bleed is better IMO, no DIY, run a search for "gravity clutch bleed".
I'm sure you'll find it.
Part #10 is just a dust cover.
The piston is #1, the piston seals are #6 & #7 and those have to leak to get fluid leaking out.
That is not normal and not good.
Maybe the cylinder housing itself is scored too, part #5.
IMO, rebuild with new seals #6 & #7 (if housing #5 and piston #1 are ok) or replace.
Inspect and make sure no parts are "left" inside the cylinder.
You're welcome.
1 picture says more then a 1000 words
06-10-2007, 07:57 PM
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[QUOTE=SpitfireS,Jun 10 2007, 03:11 PM]Did you "pump" bleed it while the slave was off the transmission?
If so, that's not correct.
You'll push the piston out of the slave and it will leak.
Bleeding the slave by pumping the clutch pedal must be done with the slave on the transmission in its proper position.
There is a DIY clutch flush & bleed on top of UTH.
A gravity bleed is better IMO, no DIY, run a search for "gravity clutch bleed".
I'm sure you'll find it.
Part #10 is just a dust cover.
The piston is #1, the piston seals are #6 & #7 and those have to leak to get fluid leaking out.
That is not normal and not good.
Maybe the cylinder housing itself is scored too, part #5.
IMO, rebuild with new seals #6 & #7 (if housing #5 and piston #1 are ok) or replace.
Inspect and make sure no parts are "left" inside the cylinder.
You're welcome.
1 picture says more then a 1000 words
If so, that's not correct.
You'll push the piston out of the slave and it will leak.
Bleeding the slave by pumping the clutch pedal must be done with the slave on the transmission in its proper position.
There is a DIY clutch flush & bleed on top of UTH.
A gravity bleed is better IMO, no DIY, run a search for "gravity clutch bleed".
I'm sure you'll find it.
Part #10 is just a dust cover.
The piston is #1, the piston seals are #6 & #7 and those have to leak to get fluid leaking out.
That is not normal and not good.
Maybe the cylinder housing itself is scored too, part #5.
IMO, rebuild with new seals #6 & #7 (if housing #5 and piston #1 are ok) or replace.
Inspect and make sure no parts are "left" inside the cylinder.
You're welcome.
1 picture says more then a 1000 words
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06-10-2007, 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Slows2k,Jun 10 2007, 10:49 PM
You didn't have the slave cylinder's piston (#11) in the cup clutch fork straight. The boot is not sold seperately.
I know because I've done it.
I know because I've done it.
is there a way to be certain that piston's pin goes in that cups ? its really hard to tell im going to be getting a new slave cylinder tomorrow should i go with the ap1 while im at it? or just stick with ap2? anybody ?
How hard is it to cut that guide pin from the fluid line in order to fit the ap1 slave?? what tool can be used?
thanks you all for the helps
06-10-2007, 10:31 PM
#9
Get the AP1 slave cylinder so you don't have to worry about fighting with the delay valve again.
Use a dremel and cut the guide pin down so it's short enough to fit in its notch on the AP1 slave cylinder.
I *almost* did the same thing you did when I pulled out my delay valve. Luckily, I saw it wasn't in the clutch fork cup correctly and fixed it before pumping on the pedal.
Use a dremel and cut the guide pin down so it's short enough to fit in its notch on the AP1 slave cylinder.
I *almost* did the same thing you did when I pulled out my delay valve. Luckily, I saw it wasn't in the clutch fork cup correctly and fixed it before pumping on the pedal.
