should i go even tighter on my rear axle nut?
11-27-2011, 08:49 AM
#21
Thread Starter
great info! thanks for the contributions. sounds like if there has been clicking then damage has been done? is tightening the axle nut just masking the problem or is there most likely something that needs to be replaced/fixed?
11-27-2011, 09:21 AM
#22
Moderator
11-27-2011, 09:23 AM
#23
Moderator
The other 10% will need a wheel bearing. Half of that 10% will need a hub.
If your reading this, your car needs the axle nut tsb. 2000-2009.
11-28-2011, 06:23 AM
#25
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The quarter-spinning-on-a-mirror is a good way to describe it 
Wouldn't it take a pretty high loss of axle nut torque to allow the inner race to shift like that?
I mean, put your finger between 2 nuts torqued to 181 ft-lbs, that is allready a LOT of clamping force!
The hub has to "bend" a bit due to load, so it compresses the races at 12 o'clock (add clamping force) while at the 6 o'clock position this bending would remove clamping force, making it pretty much 0, or very low, allowing the race to act like that quarter on a mirror.
The split inner race design doesn't help either.
A higher clamping force to begin with would keep the clamping at 6 o'clock at a higher level to stop the quarter on a mirror action.
But still, this is all after the fact.
It all starts when the inner race and the axle move in relation to eachother, creating wear and loss of torque.
But we can not stop the axle moving in the splines so there will always be movement possible.
I don't think there is enough torque possible to stop even the slightest movement during impact force, like a clutch dump or a very agressive shift, basically a moving clutch dump.
Adding some layer between them to reduce friction will reduce wear when they move and loss of axle nut torque because of it.
When I installed my axles after a stud replacement I also greased up the splines, not to reduce play but I simply don't put rusty parts together.
Honda doesn't (didn't) do much on rust prevention on suspension parts.
Wouldn't it take a pretty high loss of axle nut torque to allow the inner race to shift like that?
I mean, put your finger between 2 nuts torqued to 181 ft-lbs, that is allready a LOT of clamping force!
The hub has to "bend" a bit due to load, so it compresses the races at 12 o'clock (add clamping force) while at the 6 o'clock position this bending would remove clamping force, making it pretty much 0, or very low, allowing the race to act like that quarter on a mirror.
The split inner race design doesn't help either.
A higher clamping force to begin with would keep the clamping at 6 o'clock at a higher level to stop the quarter on a mirror action.
But still, this is all after the fact.
It all starts when the inner race and the axle move in relation to eachother, creating wear and loss of torque.
But we can not stop the axle moving in the splines so there will always be movement possible.
I don't think there is enough torque possible to stop even the slightest movement during impact force, like a clutch dump or a very agressive shift, basically a moving clutch dump.
Adding some layer between them to reduce friction will reduce wear when they move and loss of axle nut torque because of it.
When I installed my axles after a stud replacement I also greased up the splines, not to reduce play but I simply don't put rusty parts together.
Honda doesn't (didn't) do much on rust prevention on suspension parts.
11-28-2011, 08:31 AM
#26
Moderator
A little movement of the splines back and forth is ok. That is the indicator that the nut needs attention.
It's when going around turns you get the quarter affect, and galling of the hub. On a nut that is overdue for attention, the quarter effect will happen while driving straight. Slowly galling the hub.
As long as you tighten the nut before the entire hub surfaces is galled (there's still enough material left to keep the two races centered on the hub) you will save the hub and bearing.
It's when going around turns you get the quarter affect, and galling of the hub. On a nut that is overdue for attention, the quarter effect will happen while driving straight. Slowly galling the hub.
As long as you tighten the nut before the entire hub surfaces is galled (there's still enough material left to keep the two races centered on the hub) you will save the hub and bearing.
12-06-2011, 04:45 PM
#27
Thread Starter
cranked it down a little further. just used a breaker bar not a torque wrench so don't know exactly how tight it is but it's somewhere between 1:30 and 2:00 if it started at 12:00. no click yet, so far so good!
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