Short lived SOS Clutch
#11
Zakazak, when Billman said " first freeplay", it means the free play of the clutch pedal. When you push with pinky (very light pressure), you should only see the pedal movement. The cylinder rod will not be pushed into the cylinder. Hopefully this makes sense....
Couple days ago, I removed the first free play and shifting is so smooth I just want to go drive it even more now.
Couple days ago, I removed the first free play and shifting is so smooth I just want to go drive it even more now.
#12
Zakazak, when Billman said " first freeplay", it means the free play of the clutch pedal. When you push with pinky (very light pressure), you should only see the pedal movement. The cylinder rod will not be pushed into the cylinder. Hopefully this makes sense....
Couple days ago, I removed the first free play and shifting is so smooth I just want to go drive it even more now.
Couple days ago, I removed the first free play and shifting is so smooth I just want to go drive it even more now.
#13
Originally Posted by 08S2000' timestamp='1380315469' post='22800308
Zakazak, when Billman said " first freeplay", it means the free play of the clutch pedal. When you push with pinky (very light pressure), you should only see the pedal movement. The cylinder rod will not be pushed into the cylinder. Hopefully this makes sense....
Couple days ago, I removed the first free play and shifting is so smooth I just want to go drive it even more now.
Couple days ago, I removed the first free play and shifting is so smooth I just want to go drive it even more now.
08s2000, the only reason why it would be "smoother" is if the piston stroke in the master was too short and you weren't entirely disengaging the PP enough to shift smoothly, adjusting the master to reduce the pedal free play in effect lengthened the piston stroke for further PP engagement, that's fine but you now need to add the free play back in by raising the clutch switch/pedal height. Not doing so could result in another neglectful tragedy associated with this thread.
#14
Originally Posted by zakazak' timestamp='1380316262' post='22800327
[quote name='08S2000' timestamp='1380315469' post='22800308']
Zakazak, when Billman said " first freeplay", it means the free play of the clutch pedal. When you push with pinky (very light pressure), you should only see the pedal movement. The cylinder rod will not be pushed into the cylinder. Hopefully this makes sense....
Couple days ago, I removed the first free play and shifting is so smooth I just want to go drive it even more now.
Zakazak, when Billman said " first freeplay", it means the free play of the clutch pedal. When you push with pinky (very light pressure), you should only see the pedal movement. The cylinder rod will not be pushed into the cylinder. Hopefully this makes sense....
Couple days ago, I removed the first free play and shifting is so smooth I just want to go drive it even more now.
08s2000, the only reason why it would be "smoother" is if the piston stroke in the master was too short and you weren't entirely disengaging the PP enough to shift smoothly, adjusting the master to reduce the pedal free play in effect lengthened the piston stroke for further PP engagement, that's fine but you now need to add the free play back in by raising the clutch switch/pedal height. Not doing so could result in another neglectful tragedy associated with this thread.
[/quote]
Thanks S2000Junky for your point outs.
I removed most of the first free play. I still have maybe 1/32" left (barely moves with very light pressure) and I still do have the master cylinder free play (needs more pressure than the previous free play).
Because I have the barely moving first free play, I do not think that I need to add the free play back by adjusting the clutch switch or pedal height.
What do you think?
#15
Originally Posted by s2000Junky' timestamp='1380492244' post='22802278
[quote name='zakazak' timestamp='1380316262' post='22800327']
[quote name='08S2000' timestamp='1380315469' post='22800308']
Zakazak, when Billman said " first freeplay", it means the free play of the clutch pedal. When you push with pinky (very light pressure), you should only see the pedal movement. The cylinder rod will not be pushed into the cylinder. Hopefully this makes sense....
Couple days ago, I removed the first free play and shifting is so smooth I just want to go drive it even more now.
[quote name='08S2000' timestamp='1380315469' post='22800308']
Zakazak, when Billman said " first freeplay", it means the free play of the clutch pedal. When you push with pinky (very light pressure), you should only see the pedal movement. The cylinder rod will not be pushed into the cylinder. Hopefully this makes sense....
Couple days ago, I removed the first free play and shifting is so smooth I just want to go drive it even more now.
08s2000, the only reason why it would be "smoother" is if the piston stroke in the master was too short and you weren't entirely disengaging the PP enough to shift smoothly, adjusting the master to reduce the pedal free play in effect lengthened the piston stroke for further PP engagement, that's fine but you now need to add the free play back in by raising the clutch switch/pedal height. Not doing so could result in another neglectful tragedy associated with this thread.
[/quote]
Thanks S2000Junky for your point outs.
I removed most of the first free play. I still have maybe 1/32" left (barely moves with very light pressure) and I still do have the master cylinder free play (needs more pressure than the previous free play).
Because I have the barely moving first free play, I do not think that I need to add the free play back by adjusting the clutch switch or pedal height.
What do you think?
[/quote]
I'm always happy to chime in, I hate to see unnecessary major/minor issues result from lack of knowledge or experience.
I think I'd rather be safe then sorry when it comes to this one. If you feel comfortable/confident your completely unseated from the PP then that's all you need, but sounds like your right on the edge and over time as your disc wears, what ever free play you have now will diminish, I would check it regularly. I typically run 1/2-3/4" of pedal free play, enough to tap with my foot and feel it, but not so sloppy I'm losing effective pedal stroke. Total pedal height is the same level as the brake pedal, the way I like it.
#16
I'm always happy to chime in, I hate to see unnecessary major/minor issues result from lack of knowledge or experience.
I think I'd rather be safe then sorry when it comes to this one. If you feel comfortable/confident your completely unseated from the PP then that's all you need, but sounds like your right on the edge and over time as your disc wears, what ever free play you have now will diminish, I would check it regularly. I typically run 1/2-3/4" of pedal free play, enough to tap with my foot and feel it, but not so sloppy I'm losing effective pedal stroke. Total pedal height is the same level as the brake pedal, the way I like it.
I think I'd rather be safe then sorry when it comes to this one. If you feel comfortable/confident your completely unseated from the PP then that's all you need, but sounds like your right on the edge and over time as your disc wears, what ever free play you have now will diminish, I would check it regularly. I typically run 1/2-3/4" of pedal free play, enough to tap with my foot and feel it, but not so sloppy I'm losing effective pedal stroke. Total pedal height is the same level as the brake pedal, the way I like it.
I definitely agree with you and hate to see unnecessary major/minor issues from lack of knowledge/experience and that's why I keep reading and researching and hopefully extending my knowledge.
#17
Moderator
Freeplay at the pedal, as far as adjustment is concerned, does not change with clutch wear.
Even if you pulled the clutch and trans out of the car taking it out of the equation, the pedal freeplay setting is always constant.
Freeplay is not the same as engagement height. Engagement height is determined by clutch components and wear, and one should never attempt to alter it by messing with the clutch rod setting.
This is why I say there is only one correct setting for the clutch rod and this will always apply.
Even if you pulled the clutch and trans out of the car taking it out of the equation, the pedal freeplay setting is always constant.
Freeplay is not the same as engagement height. Engagement height is determined by clutch components and wear, and one should never attempt to alter it by messing with the clutch rod setting.
This is why I say there is only one correct setting for the clutch rod and this will always apply.
#18
Originally Posted by Billman250
Freeplay at the pedal, as far as adjustment is concerned, does not change with clutch wear.
Push down on the pedal -> moves master cylinder-> moves slave cylinder.
But I must say that after removing most of the first free play, shifting is much smoother.
#19
Freeplay at the pedal, as far as adjustment is concerned, does not change with clutch wear.
Even if you pulled the clutch and trans out of the car taking it out of the equation, the pedal freeplay setting is always constant.
Freeplay is not the same as engagement height. Engagement height is determined by clutch components and wear, and one should never attempt to alter it by messing with the clutch rod setting.
This is why I say there is only one correct setting for the clutch rod and this will always apply.
Even if you pulled the clutch and trans out of the car taking it out of the equation, the pedal freeplay setting is always constant.
Freeplay is not the same as engagement height. Engagement height is determined by clutch components and wear, and one should never attempt to alter it by messing with the clutch rod setting.
This is why I say there is only one correct setting for the clutch rod and this will always apply.
I agree there is only one proper setting for your clutch - if you want your clutch pedal level with your brake pedal and have the proper amount of free play and master throw to disengage the PP fully. But as long as the PP is disengaging fully, there usually is a little room to play around with where in the pedal stroke the engagement point is. It will change with wear though, and running with basically no free play at the pedal like 082000 is wouldn’t be something I would do, especially on a higher torque FI set up such as myself.
#20
Moderator
Yes as it wears, grab point will change.
The clutch rod setting however is unaffected nor does it need to be adjusted for wear.
Once its correct, its set for life, guaranteed.
The clutch rod setting however is unaffected nor does it need to be adjusted for wear.
Once its correct, its set for life, guaranteed.