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All - I'm dropping my transmission to put in a new clutch. Got everything going great (even top starter bolt had been rounded - but had the right tools to grab and free up - craftsman set for rounded bolt heads, highly recommend ).
However...trying to separate and drop the transmission and it seem like I either get the bell housing hung up and/or can't lower because the shaft is on the last 1/4" when the bell housing hits the tunnel. I'm obviously missing somthing simple - any suggestions?
It's possible that the engine/subframe has tilted forward. I had no trouble getting the transmission out, but ran into the mirror image of your problem putting it back in. I used the scissors jack from the trunk with a piece of 2x4 under the oil pan near the drain bolt. I jacked the front of the engine up a bit, tilting the back end of the engine down so the transmission would move up under the tunnel.
is your subframe dropped the 3" that it needs to be dropped in order for the bell housing to clear because ive had my trans off and on several times now and havent had any problems pulling it off its just getting the splines to line back up that anoys me.
I would agree that the angle of the subframe and engine may not be correct. Did you lower it the full 3" ? Also I assume you pulled the slave cylinder and the throwout bearing fork out correct? Mine was a pain to come all the way off till the angle was correct. If you took that top starter bolt all the way out to replace the rounded head be prepared for an hour ordeal and lots of cursin to get it back in.
Yeah, full 3" drop. I know about the starter bolt will be a pain - but it was rounded from the factory - I couldn't get 14mm to grab, and 13mm too small. Finally just used an easy out on end and worked great. Fixing a new bolt in there - well, I expect it to be a PIA. Yeah - fork is out. I've got a ton of space - maybe 3-5" seperating bell housing and engine - but the shaft keeps catching or the bell housing...
the problem is the bell housing and shaft just don't want to cooperate. Let me try to get some pics up...
OK - I had maybe 1/4" extra threads (dropped an extra 1/4 - 1/2 ") on the sub frame bolts. I adjusted those to EXACTLY 3", recentered my jack and voila - off came the transmission. Thanks to everyone's suggestions. Getting this back on will be a pain - but we'll cross that bed of nails when I get to it. Thanks!
one suggestion for you to hopefully save you some money pull out your knock sensor it is very fragile and hopefully it didnt get damaged when you pulled out the top starter bolt. i have broken mine a couple times because i didnt pull it out its a pain but well worth saving the $160 dollers for a sensor.
Congradulations on doing the job yourself. Getting the tranny remounted (no pun intended) is a piece of cake. I've done four of them. One time the the spline didn't wan't to go in, but with the right profanity and a rest break, everything worked out.
fperra - thanks. I've worked on a few older British cars (71 MGB, TR4A) - this is bit more involved but not difficult. Biggest issue is not having done it before / seen it done. I'll be twice as fast next time I do this.
I did have a question though - couldn't find it in the manual. Under the flywheel on the mount to the crank, there is a "pilot" hole that has no corresponding pin on the production flywheel or my comptech. As far as I can tell it is meaningless. I don't like unanswered questions - particularly if I may be missing something. Should I be using this small hole to align the flywheel in some fashion? See the pic, top just slight offset from the bolt holes. I *think* it may be a mount hole for when they finish the crank and has not real use - but like to check. Thanks in advance!
05-29-2006, 12:08 PM
Separating Engine/Transmission
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