jimnasty23

how many miles are on the car?
do you have a full exhaust? (catbacks, TP)
If you do i know the shop forman at BMW and before he worked there he worked on hondas for a while, like tuning and performance stuff.
He said with higher milage cars with aftermarket exhaust usually the trick to solving alot of slack(valve clicks and chain clicks) is to change the PCV. And it makes sence, becasue if your current one is failing to keep proper pressure then things will sound loose.
So my next step in trying to solve alot of my clicks is replacing my old PCV with a new one. If that works i will be in aww, ive gone threw countless valve adj. and comp. tests, new oils, and tons of visits to shops.
SO. its something to chew on in your case. i dont know if your car is suffering from clicks but i know mine is.

Importedpower

i have a full 70mm exhaust, with a test pipe... and the k&N ram intake... what is this PCV? i remember hearing it some, but i cant remember? how would i check it

81k on the car

D_Spec

With my misfire codes I get160 miles to a full tank

Importedpower

let me get this clear... if the trim is negative then its putting less fuel in the cylinder? if its positive then its adding more?

Maksim

Ok, so trim is negative which means the car perceives itself to be rich and is trying to lean itself out.
Fun thing to do if you can read realtime trim values:
Rev to 2-3k and see if short term goes close to zero - this would indicate a vacuum leak.
Long term being away from zero would indicate a metering (like a MAP) problem, but if you have a particularly free flowing exhaust it might be trying to correct. Although 7% seems a bit high for that.

Edit:
With misfires the oxygen sensors might read as rich, so that might be pushing the trim
Fun read here:
http://www.aa1car.com/library/fuel_trim_wellsmfg.pdf

Importedpower

well if i disconnect a vacuum hose, it will rev up to 3k(ish) and the trim will level out... does that sound like a vacuum leak? the car automaticaly revs up to 2960 rpms or so, and the trim reads 0. Billman had me to do that. im picking up new sparks today to try out that method...

ive checked coils, wires, my valves need a slight adjust, but i dont think they are bent, im going to do another cyl comp test today when swapping plugs. idk what to expect.

ill post up the numbers and my trims at a couple rpm levels

Importedpower

well... picked up my spark plugs yesterday and put them in. also got to test out a CRV while i was there. nifty little car, very comfy and good audio! anyway, i got home, couldnt find my compression tester, and at this point i wanted my car running more than i wanted to dig around for where one of my friends or a relative borrowed it and left it. (it was in the kitchen, dunno why) got the plugs gapped and put it correctly, reset the codes, cranked it up, and ill be damned. it runs perfect! (other than the clicky from me needing a valve adjust, which is comin this week) the first time i replaced plugs, it fixed everything then too... so what the hell. i guess ill keep driving like this, and if the codes pop up again... well screw it. its hondas problem. 90$ inspection fee sounds a hell of alot better than days of dealin with this. (on a happier note, one of the guys i know decided to give me a 100xr dirtbike that he found in his garage... dunno why. was under the hood of my s2k and he just rolled up and unloaded it)

zeroptzero

how old were the other plugs that were in the engine ?, I never bothered to recommend plugs as I thought they were relatively new. What kind of plugs did you just install ?

Importedpower

ok, it had bosch plugs just put in when i got it, ive only have it 10k or so miles, and the f'd up. so i got some NGK plugs from advanced auto, put em in, they lasted 3 days and the light came back on. i went and paid 68$ at honda for OEM NGK plugs. they lasted 3 days aswell and the car went back to shit. I called the dealership from the side of the road, they came and picked up car for free. Now one of my buddies, Preston, is looking into it with 3 other techs. they only have 2 cars atm and 9 techs, so i feel sure its getting the attention it needs. also, i already told him i wasnt paying for stupid shit like swapping out everything that doesnt need swapping, and he can find the problem and fix it, because i aint rackin up 1400$ in stuff that i dont need. He said they would test everything and if they were wrong i wont be charged for it. (i got that in writing)

Importedpower

Resurrection... ok, got the car back yesterday, drove it around, once it warmed up i took a couple runs in vtec, no light came on. But it doesn't sound much better. The fuel trim numbers at idle are now:
LT FT: -3.6
ST FT:-4.5
they were -7.5 and anywhere between -15 and -24 on short term.
So its not entirely fixed... this is what honda did
-Valve Adjustment (refused to check the valves for damage, said thats step 2, but wtf?)
-Checked Coils, Wires, Firing order, Spark Plugs, and seals to see if it was oil defoulment, all checks came up cleared.
-They then reset the code, and drove it for about an hour and said the light didnt come back on... (Said that a couple of my valves were over tightened?)

Ok, im not seeing how over tightened caused misfires... but my trim is still not fixed, and now i have the wierdest sound sometimes... its like a timing chain sound when the tensioner is bad, but its "wet" souding...

its only audible when im starting off in first, clutch with a little gas, and then a little while after i release the clutch. Then its also audible when im flooring it... i cant get a vid because you probly couldnt hear it over the exhaust