"Seat" dyno somewhat confirmed by shop dyno results.
#22
Originally posted by Prolene
FI=mo' power for sure.
I have the Mugen ecu, so no VAFC settings.
FI=mo' power for sure.
I have the Mugen ecu, so no VAFC settings.
#23
Registered User
Wha, huh, oh its you guys... :-)
I've got to print Prolene's runs today (we ran out of black ink on the printer Saturday). But if memory serves his car made 148-149 lbs-ft on the Dynapack.
If you want to get a general idea for comparing Dynojets to the Dynapack (assuming the dynojet operator does things right - I was told a recent test session didn't use a cooling fan!), you have to add 6-10 hp to the dynojet numbers. I usually use the 10 hp number (more conservative). On the torque front its a little tougher, but the differential tends to be 3-5 lbs-ft.
So, in short Jenner, your results are pretty good!
On the VAFC front, 10/50 is the norm, but I like to bring up the low point at a minimum. Usually to about 20%. Depending on the usage of the car, I may also raise the full throttle point to 60%. I do this because I don't want the ECU to unlearn any changes I make. At 10-20% throttle, the ECU is usually still in closed loop (read learning) mode. And between the two setpoints the VAFC does an interpolation between your correction factor and 0. So, for example, if you were leaning out 10% at 5000 rpm, and you were at 30% throttle (assuming you started with a 10/50 setup), the VAFC would lean the mixture 5%. The ECU, being in closed loop mode, will see this and alter fuel trims to correct.
UL
I've got to print Prolene's runs today (we ran out of black ink on the printer Saturday). But if memory serves his car made 148-149 lbs-ft on the Dynapack.
If you want to get a general idea for comparing Dynojets to the Dynapack (assuming the dynojet operator does things right - I was told a recent test session didn't use a cooling fan!), you have to add 6-10 hp to the dynojet numbers. I usually use the 10 hp number (more conservative). On the torque front its a little tougher, but the differential tends to be 3-5 lbs-ft.
So, in short Jenner, your results are pretty good!
On the VAFC front, 10/50 is the norm, but I like to bring up the low point at a minimum. Usually to about 20%. Depending on the usage of the car, I may also raise the full throttle point to 60%. I do this because I don't want the ECU to unlearn any changes I make. At 10-20% throttle, the ECU is usually still in closed loop (read learning) mode. And between the two setpoints the VAFC does an interpolation between your correction factor and 0. So, for example, if you were leaning out 10% at 5000 rpm, and you were at 30% throttle (assuming you started with a 10/50 setup), the VAFC would lean the mixture 5%. The ECU, being in closed loop mode, will see this and alter fuel trims to correct.
UL
#24
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UL! You are indeed the man. I have been waiting for someone to explain that to me in english! Any input on the AVC-R??? That book is written in Heiroglyphics. As always, thanks for the insight.
Larry
Larry
#25
Registered User
Um, AVCR, lessee...
Best advice I can give you there is increase duty cycle proportional to boost increases. I've never actually had a chance to look at the manual, just played with one on Team Hybrid's car.
UL
Best advice I can give you there is increase duty cycle proportional to boost increases. I've never actually had a chance to look at the manual, just played with one on Team Hybrid's car.
UL
#27
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by ultimate lurker
[B]Actually Larry, I believe that much of the variability we see in dyno runs is due to operator error, or differentials between dynos.
So far I've dyno'd 3 stock 2000's and 1 stock 2001.
[B]Actually Larry, I believe that much of the variability we see in dyno runs is due to operator error, or differentials between dynos.
So far I've dyno'd 3 stock 2000's and 1 stock 2001.
#28
I looked at the part number on my '02 block, and it wasn't like either of the ones VaporS2K quoted. Mine was 2PCX-A300 01. The serial number was 1023XXX. I got this from the large sticker by the crankshaft pulley.
#30
Originally posted by vapors2k
you would probably want to focus on that serial number. That part# on the block might be for the entire engine assembly rather than the short block assembly which is only the bottom end.
you would probably want to focus on that serial number. That part# on the block might be for the entire engine assembly rather than the short block assembly which is only the bottom end.